4397R TCS with Vetec and NG3 upgrades

[BDA]

That's pretty exciting! As I've said, I really like the idea of  using those VW half shafts, CV joints, axles, and hubs and in the end, your axles, etc. should be bullet proof. Good luck with the rest of your development!

[GavinT]

As to the geometry, the bottom link is the same length as stock but adjustable.  The top link is new and required for the CV axle conversion.  The actual geometry isn't changed much if at all with the track set at the stock settings. 

I don't know if it's an effect of the pic but the upper link appears to be somewhat higher (about 2 inches?) than the drive shaft. This will impact camber gain and therefor tyre contact patch etc. Not looking to be a critic, here - just an observation.

I don't suppose you've done drawings of the VW axles?
If you have, I'd love to see them. Drawings wouldn't need to be anything flash - just showing some important dimensions like distance between bearing lands, position of hub face etc.

[Jmarkusic]

I have yet to plot the suspension, though I intend to.  I suspect the link is something less than 2 inches above the axle plane, it is almost exactly the same length as the axle assembly (CL of hiem ends line up with effective CL of CV joint)  and the effective length of the axles remain pretty constant through the entire range of motion.  This indicates that the hub is staying in alignment through that range as well.

I didn’t set the suspension up as to mounting points, the car to me this way, but the layout does seem correct and should prove to be reasonably good.    Maybe I’ll get a chance to plot it this weekend. 

Drawings are planned as is an article.  I need to get through the initial set up of the systems before I call anything final.

[Jmarkusic]

I spent time this week on making the gearbox shift.  The shifter Andy created works great so that made this much easier.  The cables were there and he had made a lever and adaptor.  My first attempt at making this work was pretty dismal.  I made a change and it wasn't any better.  Not enough throw and not enough leverage.  So I removed everything at the back and started over.

Now that I had an idea of how it was supposed to work, I could see what had to be done.  I utilized part of the adaptor Andy had made and added a swivel and clevis to it.  This gave me the rotation I needed and an attachment for the lever.  I was able to use the unused gearbox mounting on the rear hoop as a pivot and then it was a matter of getting the attachment points right for the cables and the connection to the clevis/ gearbox adaptor.  The connection to the lever has to be slotted to account for the arc the pin moves in. 

You can see from the pictures that the brackets and levers still need some work.  If I stay with this arrangement, I need to make it somewhat weather proof so corrosion doesn't hang it up. I can either remake the parts to add room for some Delrin bushings and slides or version I have sketched that doesn't have a swivel and would be less subject to possible corrosion.  That would be an adapter with a round shaft at the back and a lever that it passed through.  The pin gives the rotation and the lever would still move just like this one.  The pivot point and attachment dimensions would remain the same but the system is just simpler. 

[andy harwood]

Happy to see progress on the TCS and that some of my mods were useable. Great dolly you've made for the car. My working on the car was so sporadic, and note taking was almost non-existent, I forgot what I did an why, most of the time. I had intended to get a raceline alloy sump, thinking  that would allow a bit more ground clearance. Just wait until you get into the electrics - I'll be the DPO then, lol. Car had many cut wires, the electric 'brain', and a parasitic drain. So I just wired in a new fuse block.... I've found a few more parts - sending you a pvt. message