Outboard Drive shaft S2 left hand thread?

[BDA]

Great! They look beautiful!

I hope you’ll take some time and report on your impressions, how it all fits together, etc.

Can you give us an idea of the cost?

[S2Zetec54]

Thank you.

Ok 'burn after reading'.....that little lot cost me £652 which included £14 for post..i'll offer up the old hubs but it seems sensible to buy new if there's any doubt etc...

I will update this thread with the process i'm going to follow and my testing when it's installed

One thing I haven't asked Peter yet is if I should or could torque to a higher level

[Bainford]

Very Nice! Are the axles and yokes machined from a single bar of steel?

[Kendo]

I've been wondering, do you put the right-hand thread on the right side, or vice versa?

[BDA]

Thank you.

Ok 'burn after reading'.....that little lot cost me £652 which included £14 for post..i'll offer up the old hubs but it seems sensible to buy new if there's any doubt etc...

That seems like a pretty good price!

[S2Zetec54]

...are they made from a single piece or welded...good question....I assumed they were one piece...I left them at work...Can you weld EN24? ....seem to remember that one had to be very careful and it required welding with the en24 metal at very high temperatures......but I read it a long time ago not sure if I remember correctly anyway these things are used in his single seaters so I am pretty confident they'll be strong enough.

So my plan is right hand thread on left hand side and left hand thread on right hand side....That was the advice from Peter at PA

Anyway, should be fun trying this.....will assemble all the parts I need before I start....so far the last retightening using lock tight has actually worked rather well...ironically!

Serge Sleurs has a good episode about putting the hub together on you tube...so intend to have the manual to hand and watch Sleurs a few times before I start

[EuropaTC]

Ok 'burn after reading'.....that little lot cost me £652 which included £14 for post..i'll offer up the old hubs but it seems sensible to buy new if there's any doubt etc...

Ok, that's slightly more than the OEM parts but personally I think that's quite reasonable for what's a custom built, low volume component. And it's likely to be "fit and forget" which is always worth a few quid to me.

It's very nice kit, bookmarked for "just in case".  Thank for posting that up.

Brian

[Pete]

Just remembered I never sent the pics of the u joints

[Pete]

Here they are

[BDA]

I have a spare set of U-joints that should be for a TCS and the cup measures 27mm across so yours must be S1/S2 U-joints. That's not surprising since the stub axles started life as S2 stub axles.

Were you able to tell if they were welded or a single piece?

[S2Zetec54]

....well if it's welded I can't see the join...but then I wouldn't really know what I'm looking for

I'll post some super up close photos....keep forgetting to bring them home....

[BDA]

BDA, the drilling through and or use of a castlegated  is a useful idea and I will keep up my sleeve. As you have done I would leave in the hands of a machinist if I go down this route

I'm sorry I didn't notice this before but my suggestion does not use a castellated nut. It uses the standard nut.

The hole is drilled laterally - not radially (in other words, in the direction of the stub axle) and the hole goes through the threads of both the nut and the stub axle. It would be tapped for 10-32 or 8-32 and a set screw is screwed into the resulting hole. The set screw would have to shear in half for the nut to rotate.

I think a castellated nut is a bad idea because to use that, you would drill a hole through the stub axle. When you tighten the nut, the hole in the stub axle and a castellation may not line up and while tightening the nut further to line it up might not hurt if it's not too tight, loosening it certainly will.