Rear Suspension Housings - Worn

[Chuck Nukem]

Not to derail this thread but I had one of my rear hub carriers 3D scanned to compare it to the model I made last year...It's nice to have friends with fancy tools!

I am still contemplating machining some from solid. I think the best reason to do it is to incorporate the rear disc bracket, and a rear upper link mount for CV axle use in to a single design. I would add pockets along the body to remove weight.

I am working on a more flexible brake and control arm solution too with two brackets that are bolted on either face of the original carrier. One for radial caliper, one for the upper control arm. The problem with the radial caliper bracket is that it takes up some of the real estate where the rotor could sit (closest to the hub) which then pushes the caliper closer to the wheel. This makes space tight for the parking brake arms.

If you want some world class reading check this out...

http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/book_aoe/aoe_11.pdf

What a CV axle!!!

[TurboFource]

Nice thinking Chuck!

[lotusfanatic]

What a dilemma...

whilst new hubs aren't cheap, I wouldn't feel comfortable with the idea of removing any material from a 45+ year old porous, cast alloy suspension component.

I may face this very same scenario when I strip that area of my car 

To maintain the original set-up I guess the ultimate would be a solid, machined hub? (unfortunately the cost would be prohibitive for most of us) 

Mark

[Chuck Nukem]

What a dilemma...

whilst new hubs aren't cheap, I wouldn't feel comfortable with the idea of removing any material from a 45+ year old porous, cast alloy suspension component.

I may face this very same scenario when I strip that area of my car 

To maintain the original set-up I guess the ultimate would be a solid, machined hub? (unfortunately the cost would be prohibitive for most of us) 

Mark

Its hard for me to say exactly how much they would cost to make until I do one, but I would want them to be within reason. Silly expensive parts are just that....

[TurboFource]

Any progress on this Dilkris?

[Dilkris]

Any progress on this Dilkris?

Yes - steel arrived - I am presently making the "bracket" (ie that part shown in wood on my original post), which allows me to bolt the housing to the cross travel on the lathe. With this done I will make the boring bar, all being well I should be able to start machining the housings and sleeves by the end of the week. I will post some pictures tomorrow for how far I've got.       

[TurboFource]

You will use shims to get your vertical height centered?

[Dilkris]

TurboFource - "Yes" and "No" - I will drill the 4 mounting bolt holes for the housing in the support bracket marginally oversize (1mm) to allow for movement (adjustment) in this plane. I will however also stand the bracket on 3mm bright flat bar before bolting to the cross slide to give me further adjustment, with shim stock, if the above 1mm proves not to be enough. Support bracket is being made from 125 x 12 (mm) bright flat bar.
Confused? I'll post pictures in the next update.     

[Steve_Lindford]

Is there any reason why the bearing housing cant be filled with weld then turned down to the correct size for a new bearing??

[Dilkris]

 
This was Option 2 in my original post on this thread - I don't have TIG Welding equipment, (but I do have a small lathe), - I also don't know anybody with TIG equipment - going to an engineering shop is out of the question as A):- they charge big bucks these days for anything (and probably justifiably so) and B);- Health and Safety/Insurance/Public Liability boll**cks means I couldn't watch this being done and finally C):- I am unsure if you could actually get the TIG electrode and filler rod inside the housing, (the rear bearing housing is quite deep as it contains an oil seal also.)
In conclusion - I just wanted to try and do it myself - if its a cock up - guess its £400 plus VAT plus postage each from SJSports....     

[jbcollier]

Yup, it can be TIGed and remachined.  But, a steel sleeve shrunk in is a better and stronger repair.

[GavinT]

Tricky.
I guess the sleeving options are:

1mm wall thickness steel?
2mm wall thickness ally?

I'm figuring you'd end up removing at least 1mm on the dimpled/pock marked recess to clean it up.
An ally sleeve would only need a light press fit & Loctite.
A steel sleeve would see less metal removed but you wouldn't want to encounter an overheated bearing down the track which could upset the Loctite. Also, it'd need to be pinned in some manner to ensure security, I reckon.

Depending on how big the gap might be, a Loctite retaining compound could still be better.

[Dilkris]

Whilst I personally do not intend to use them in this application - it was suggested that "Tolerance Rings" be employed - now, I have never seen or heard of these but I must admit I was quite intrigued by them. See below link :-

https://www.euro-bearings.com/tol1.htm

[Dilkris]

Tricky.
I guess the sleeving options are:

1mm wall thickness steel?
2mm wall thickness ally?

I'm figuring you'd end up removing at least 1mm on the dimpled/pock marked recess to clean it up.

Thankyou for your comments and observations.

The second housing, which has not been "dimpled" for want of a better term, has a bearing fit like a "pr**k in a shirtsleeve" - insert the bearing, turn it upside down and it falls out.

Never the less, I am targeting a finished aluminum sleeve thickness of 2mm - I will machine these sleeves with an OD providing an interference fit to the ID of the machined housing diameter and press fit along with loctite or I will dowel. (Note: probability will be high that the sleeves will be suited per housing). Initially I will make the sleeves with a 5/7mm wall thickness and finish machine the ID when installed to the housings.

I am assuming that bearing fit (6206 - 2RS) on these sleeves will be "size for size" - am I correct on this??

Whilst the aluminium housings, on their own, are quite light and seemingly frail, it must be remembered that the area where I am working is contained and thereby supported by the radius arm fixture. The same of course cannot be said for the lower shock and lower link arm mounting point - which of course, as to be expected is very solid.   

     

[Dilkris]

TurboFource - "Yes" and "No" - I will drill the 4 mounting bolt holes for the housing in the support bracket marginally oversize (1mm) to allow for movement (adjustment) in this plane. I will however also stand the bracket on 3mm bright flat bar before bolting to the cross slide to give me further adjustment, with shim stock, if the above 1mm proves not to be enough. Support bracket is being made from 125 x 12 (mm) bright flat bar.
Confused? I'll post pictures in the next update.     

As per my comment above - please find pictures of update as to where I am. Tomorrow I will start the machining of the boring bar to accept the square to round tool bit holder - I then will have to make some guides as a slide fit on the boring bar to facilitate aligning both bearing housings to the boring bar.

Because I have limited workshop equipment for this sort of work - I have also included some photo's of how I got to where I am.