Fuel tank questions

[TurboFource]

I don't have any easy way to raise my whole car high enough to remove the fuel tanks, since I plan to remove the body I would assume I can loosen the tanks and let them sit on the ground and lift the body up off everything? Is there any hidden hardware that may be troublesome?

My drivers side tank looks pretty rough, and I am not that excited about it being right behind me, has anyone installed a larger capacity tank on just the passenger side?

[Sandyman]

Turbo, I have not read where the fuel tank has been fire related a problem. Being a British car the fuel tank is on the passenger side. I replaced my rusty/leaky tank with an aluminum one from RD Ent. Check with them about their right side tank. No problems so far. Moving the tank to the right side would balance the car better with only the driver in the car.
Sandy

[Clifton]

My rough tank became a leaker at the seam. I welded the leak and had another at a different spot a month later. I used fuel tank sealer but would have preferred a new aluminum tank but I have a custom intank pump. If on a budget sealer works.

If your tank gets hit it will be a problem but if the tank gets hit you will most likely be dead or wish you were.

[Dilkris]

I used fuel tank sealer but would have preferred a new aluminum tank but I have a custom intank pump. If on a budget sealer works.

I was interested in this - how did you manage to completely drain the sealer from the tanks? I note that the inlet filler pipe, outlet and even the drain plug facility extend into the tank by some 5mm, (the outlet pipe even more so), making complete emptying of the sealer very difficult/impossible. Also did you block completely the outlet pipe, as this is very small, doesn't it block internally with the sealer?   
Did you find this all problematic - or was it all just "no big deal"?       

[BobW]

There is no hidden hardware on an S2. The body could be lifted off the tank once the fasteners and fuel lines were removed. But if you're lifting the body off anyway, might it be easier to disconnect the fuel lines and take the tanks with it, to remove them later?

Twenty years ago my tank (S2, so only one) was weeping about a quarter of the way down through a group of pinhole leaks. I took the tank out by dropping it into a plastic-lined hole I dug in the veggie garden. It was early spring, so I could still get away with this  . The tank went to a specialist who coated the inside with a magic potion. The repair lasted over 15 years, when the leaks began again. Replacement aluminum tanks were available by then, so I made the switch. RD's aluminum tanks are beautifully made and I expect mine to last. The only difference from original, aside from the material, is that the new tank has no fuel return line. 

[TurboFource]

I actually thought about the hole in the ground idea.......

[jbcollier]

Banks' tanks have the fuel sender in the RH tank and nothing in the LH tank.  Works fine for a twin tank set-up where the outlets are teed together.

[GavinT]

I actually thought about the hole in the ground idea.......

Have a look at the rain gutters at the road side.
Where I live, some have a large removable steel grate.

You can figure out the rest. 

[Blitzen]

If you’re removing the body drain the tanks and remove them after you lift off the body, thats what I did.

[Clifton]

I used fuel tank sealer but would have preferred a new aluminum tank but I have a custom intank pump. If on a budget sealer works.

I was interested in this - how did you manage to completely drain the sealer from the tanks? I note that the inlet filler pipe, outlet and even the drain plug facility extend into the tank by some 5mm, (the outlet pipe even more so), making complete emptying of the sealer very difficult/impossible. Also did you block completely the outlet pipe, as this is very small, doesn't it block internally with the sealer?   
Did you find this all problematic - or was it all just "no big deal"?       

My outlet pipe was welded shut. I have an in tank pump and basket from a 98' Mustang. I could see this being a problem on a a stock tank though.  Just kept rotating until it was all covered. Nothing to drain.

[buzzer]

Banks' tanks have the fuel sender in the RH tank and nothing in the LH tank.  Works fine for a twin tank set-up where the outlets are teed together.

Are you sure?  The sender unit is on the LH tank on my alloy tanks and the wiring on the loom is to the LH tank.

[JR73]

You used to be able to spec whatever you wanted on the Banks tanks as Richard made them himself, just had to tell him what fittings etc you wanted.