When working on the door hinges, I was impressed by the simplicity but a guy sure has rethink normal car door knowledge. I don't know how common it is but I suspect everybody has a similar problem as I did. After using a Sawzall with a 10" steel-cutting blade to saw the pin top and bottom. (simple-easy) I found that, of course, the steel pin and bushes were rusted together and the pin had been spinning in the body biscuit when the door was opened. This wore the biscuit pin hole oblong. The fix was easy. I bought a pair of bronze bushing's at the local hardware store that fit the new stainless pins and then drilled out the biscuit, first with a small drill and then progressivly larger bits until I could tap the bushing in the body. Now this changes things. Before, the rusty door bushings kept the pin from spinning in the bushes where they were designed to and turned in the body instead. Now with the bronze bushes in the body, the pins will still want to turn there and I really can't see a problem with that. If the bushes wear out, just drill again for a thicker bushing when that day comes. I still think it's a better solution than the 2 piece pins due to safety. Another thing. I did a full frame-off restoration and while the body was off I alligned the empty doors perfectly, all the time knowing that when done assembling the doors, the added weight of latches glass etc would make them hang down at the back and allignment would have to be redone. Still a good move as the doors were all alligned except for the rear hang which was easily corrected with a floor jack supporting the door while I moved either the top or bottom hinge/bush depending on wether the door was too far forward (move bottom bush) or too far back (move top bush). This worked well. Another tip. I bought a pair of the best wrenches for doing this from a bicycle supply. Very pleased with that purchase.
