new owner '74 TCS misc ?

[jbcollier]

 

I would check the air/fuel ratio to be sure.  If you have a local shop with a dyno, get them to check it.  Otherwise, you can weld a bung in your exhaust and use a wide-band 02 sensor and an A/F-R gauge to check it.  If you go the latter route, I can advise on what to look for.  Lots of info on the web as well.

[TurboFource]

Awesome!

[jbcollier]

BTW...

CURSE YOU!

I'm now seriously thinking of doing this to my crossflow.

;-)

[Lumbes]

Thank you jb for the suggestion.  I will start reading up on some gauges and add up the cost of what it will be to run the test myself.  If it's not absurd I'll go the latter route.

[jbcollier]

I use one of these:

https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm2.php

Works very well.

[Pfreen]

I use this one.  https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS.

It has been working great for a couple of years.

[Lumbes]

The LM-2 complete kit looks like a real nice tool with data logging capabilities and more.  Finding lower prices from different sources so it is tempting.  Seeing it is powered with a cigarette lighter plug...would using a battery booster/pack with a cigarette lighter plug

adapter or receiver  be a suitable work around solution being the Europa does not have a cigarette lighter?  Just a thought.  I could be missing something completely obvious as well.  Thinking it over and will likely decide on something soon.  March won't last forever

and am eager to put some miles on with assurance when the weather breaks.

[jbcollier]

I use mine on all sorts of vehicles and made a up power cord with alligator clips.  Works well.  I have also carried a battery to power it on magneto powered bikes.

Confession time.  The S1 does come with a cigarette lighter.  Didn't realize that the S2 and TCs didn't.

[SilverBeast]

Cigarette lighter might have been an option, my Special has one to go with the ashtray.....

[Lumbes]

The LM-2 kit should arrive by the 11th.  Exciting stuff knowing I should be able to dial it in to perfection.

My TCS has the optional radio fitted but yeah no cigarette lighter to accompany the ashtray. 

SilverBeast - Not that I plan to install one but just curious in where the placement is in your Special. 

 

[SilverBeast]

Just to the left of the radio. It's a 74 UK specification - I don't think the UK was quite so bothered about health implications - it also has single circuit brakes, no hazard warning lights or seat belt warnings!

[Lumbes]

Setting up the carbs has taken longer than expected.  Biggest hang up was at WOT with it initially being way rich reaching high 8's.  The main jets shipped with the carbs were just too big for the fed spec twin cam but still ran better than the previous weber setup.  Currently at idle it's sitting around 14.7 and while cruising it sits in the 13's.  At 1/2 to 3/4 its about 12.5 and WOT low 11's.  It's close to being right or at least I think.  Definitely have the hang of changing out the needles and main jets.  Can do the job in minutes at this point and am considering in taking it to a dyno for a starting reference.  Unfortunately that is to wait being after my most recent drive I inspected the car and went to check lug nut torques.  Set a torque wrench to 40 ft lbs and went around the car to have the suspect one sheer off with little torque applied.  How far do I have to disassemble the rear drum to replace the hub studs?  The wheels are Panasport extra lightweight 5 1/2jj x 13.  I feel like it's a good time to replace the studs all around and ordered 16 and one nut replacement from RD ent.  Made it as far as lifting the rear of the car, setting jacks, wheel removal and realizing I will have to drill out the split pin holding the e brake cable to the drum assembly before going further.  Reading through the workshop manual and took note of it specifying using a hub extractor during disassembly of the hub and a special loctite being used during reassembly.  My hope was that I wouldn't have to go that far and just remove the brake drum cover giving me enough clearance to knock out the old ones.  The studs look short so a chance I could slide them in then seat them with some washers and a lug nut. If not I'll look to order that loctite and know it's going to be a bit more than just freeing the drum covers on the rear.

[SilverBeast]

I've been told (on here) that you can remove/fit the studs without removing the hub, and having removed the drums on mine recently, there does look to be enough room.

In theory you may not need to disconnect handbrake cable as it should just be set to be NOT moving the pad it applies when fully off. As you have a Special you will have the auto-adjusters (like me) so dont have an option to back off the pads any further - until the drum is off!
There is a thread here on adjusting rear brakes on TCS  http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1433.0
I haven't updated it with the pictures after I swapped my adjusters round. It might be useful to check yours when you remove your drum and update it with your setup, as I haven't confirmed that mine operate correctly yet.

I had to use a 3 arm puller on the drum on one side in order to get the drum off!

Mine are back together, but I still need to do many other things before I can finish adjusting brakes and get it back on the road.

[Lumbes]

Your correct in not needing to or at least I didn't need to disconnect the handbrake cables.  The drum wasn't overly difficult to remove with a few taps from a rubber mallet it broke free and I pulled it off.  Stud replacement at that stage of disassembly is doable so luckily I have the stud replaced and the roadwheel back on the car with it back on the ground.  Just 15 more to go but honestly might wait till this winter for that task.   

[LotusBob74]

I have a Mikuni carb conversion kit on order, hope it arrives soon.  Looking forward to swapping out my Strombergs.  Any tips you guys have would be appreciated.
I also have a 74 TCS