The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[Kendo]

Bryan, so your shop uses Duratec as the only primer? I had read of others using Duratec as the high build, easily sandable primer, then an epoxy primer over that before base coat.

[Richard48Y]

"(over a single sealer coat)"
Any particular sealer to recommend?
I am still working repairs and edge cracks so have time to get whatever is best.

[Bryan Boyle]

Bryan, so your shop uses Duratec as the only primer? I had read of others using Duratec as the high build, easily sandable primer, then an epoxy primer over that before base coat.

Depends on the top coat they're using.  They found that Duratec seems to be a reasonably stable base for most of the top coats they shoot...from the Axalta to the Glasurit.  On 693R, for example, they did Duratec for first primer, sanded out, second coat, sanded out, third coat, 600 grit level off, then Glasurit sealer, then Glasurit top. 

Of course, the body has to be straight and finished, but, seems that the Duratec was the answer.

@Richard48Y: typically, from what my body guy tells me, the sealer should be from the top coat chemstry/product line.  IOW, don't mix PPG with Axalta, for instance.  The primer, well-flashed off (I leave mine out in the summer sun for a week and pull in at night....) is pretty neutral, so the sealer is there to just provide a smooth layer in between to promote adhesion and barrier between potential issues.  The fact that, 14 years on, 693R is still bringing home trophies (for her new owner in IN) is testament to the process my guy came up with (that, and 6 coats of Glasurit urethane single stage helps, too...)  Wish he hadn't retired, or else 3291R would be on a trailer to his shop as we speak.  Lou D. here also used the same guy, as did RD.  Dave (the paint guy...) was a true craftsman.  Photo below is him shooting 693R in August '08.



 

[Richard48Y]

I am back to using the somewhat expensive blasting soda.
Tried a DA sander and did not like the result.
To get through three layers of paint the DA was tiresome and eager to create waves in the fiberglass.
Soda is easier on my back and on the gel-coat.
I am basically removing one layer of paint at a time.
The scary part is that I am still working on the bonnet and engine covers.
By the time I have stripped the entire shell and reworked the old repairs this is going to be a ridiculously long and expensive job of work.
I have to say a Europa is mechanically simple but the body is painful.
I may have to dedicate the whole summer to bodywork.

[Bryan Boyle]

***DELETIA***

I may have to dedicate the whole summer to bodywork.

Sounds about right.  Time-wise, that is.  Body guy picked up 693R middle of June '08 from my house.  Shot first color in September.  Things take time, and if you rush this part of the job...the part that everyone sees...well...all that work for naught. 

Yeah, the bodywork is painful.  That's why they get the prices (if they're good) that they do. 

[Richard48Y]

Finally have the engine cover down to original paint and "Repairs", all of which I will have to redo.
Despite the time and money invested so far I think I may be better off to just get another engine cover.
The hazards of reviving an old race car I guess.
This has me dreading what I may find under the primer applied to the main body. 

[dakazman]

Send some pics of damage, shipping nowadays will kill you.
 Don’t give up , after stripping the composite veil applied to the top surface should cover all the sins of the past .  Yes you will need to fix the big ones , but it one at a time.
Dakazman

[Richard48Y]

Bought the "Aircraft" fiberglass safe paint stripper and dove into the main body shell.
It has been on the rotisserie for a few weeks waiting on the warm weather.
With this stripper excellent ventilation is a must, hold the can down-wind when you open it, the first whiff will really clear your sinuses.
Glad it also gets after Bondo®, not so glad to find so much of it.
I am using a plastic sheet to enhance the stripping action as suggested by Kleen-Strip.
Seeing what I am up against I fear bodywork may be about all I accomplish this year.
Moving the engine parts into the former spare bedroom, now inside workspace.

Yes, I am single. 

[Richard48Y]

They do look much worse before they get to look better!
I have begun stripping the body.
I will post another pic once the body is fully stripped and soda blasted for comparison.

[Richard48Y]

Todays adventure was a mixed bag.
Bought the two R16 parts cars but was not able to bring either home as my loading ramp broke.
I did get to see what I bought, one car already has the engine and trans out so that will save me some time.
Bad news is that engine has a fist size hole in the block.
Thinking I will clean it up and make an end table from it.
The other car might even run with some effort, but that is an effort I will not be making.
I will have to examine the blown engine components, crank may be good, cam core looks salvageable, two heads, manifold, and an air cleaner are all there.
I will have to go back with better ramps or a borrowed trailer.
Oh, the win of the day.
Both transmissions appear to have intact speedometer drives.
Unless the Europa uses an odd variant that should take one item off my list of needs.

[Richard48Y]

Making progress on stripping the body.
Not happy with the amount of Bondo® I am finding.
Particularly Bondo® over paint. 
If I find this one to be too bad I may replace the body.
Sure, almost any fiberglass is fixable, but as time is money I need to take the most sensible route.
Current plan is chemical strip until the paint is thin them finish with Soda Blasting.
Some areas are complex enough that only blasting makes sense to me.
An example would be the tail lamp recesses.

[GavinT]

Some areas are complex enough that only blasting makes sense to me.
An example would be the tail lamp recesses.

Exactly!

When doing mine the first time, I started with a DA on the larger areas and all seemed to be going fine for a while. It's those fiddly areas that bring the mind numbing reality of the task into stark relief.

Thus, I became a fan of sand blasting by a professional commercial operation - no if's but's or maybe's - all over and done with in a few days. I've told the story before so won't bore everyone with a repeat. Reading this thread and also Bryan's on the subject of blasting hasn't changed my 'fandom'.

So, what about a home gamer sand blasting rig for the fiddly areas?
I expect we've all seen those sand blasting attachments for a pressure washer which seem pretty good and at a reasonably cost. They permit quite a lot of control, too.

I dunno . . I just get the impression soda blasting isn't really up to the task. Sure, it'll do it but I could also scrub my driveway with a tooth brush is what I'm thinking.

[Richard48Y]

I have concluded that it really comes down to how many layers of paint and what type.
If you are working with only the original paint Soda should work very well.
A large enough air compressor is a must or you will spend a lot of time waiting for more air.
Since I am dealing with multiple layers of enamel I am now going chemical strip and Soda as a final step.
Sand is normally avoided as it will etch the gel coat or remove it completely.

[Richard48Y]

I am going to cease chemical stripping until I get to run over the entire body with Soda.
Some areas are three layers thick, others are a thin coat of primer over raw glass.
Soda blast will reveal what is under the primer so that I may apply chemical stripper only where needed.
Every area where I have removed primer I find Bondo®.
Not always heavy but present.
I knew it was a Hill Climb car but there was no mention of prior crashes.
So far not finding major repairs, but I have not got all the Bondo® off yet.

[Richard48Y]

Bit the bullet and bought the Duratec primer and reducer today.
Going to be a bodywork summer as the gallon is only guaranteed for six months.
3.5 cars of fiberglas to do.