The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[Richard48Y]

Freezing days with snow flurries so no recent time in the shop.
I have however continued to spend like a drunk cowboy after round-up! 
Have to stop that for a while, but when the weather warms up I should be able to jump on the engine, suspension, and body work.
Still waiting for my crankshaft to come back too.
Dash lamination is a maybe as the veneer I have may not be durable due to the backing used.
Any progress is better than none but I am very anxious to get away from this desk and into the shop again.

[dakazman]

   Rich,
        If I could I'd send you some of this close to 90f temps.
   I know its hard to plan weather and your plan of action. No rain here in about a month, so I get a little break from yard work . Finishing up some old projects that I had purchased parts for but didn't have the time to assemble.... its is definitely a struggle. This is why the forum can help, post your concerns and most members will try to offer encouragement and best advice. at least that's what I have learned. 
 
  As they say , Keep Moving Forward.
Dakazman
 

[Richard48Y]

Concentrating on gathering materials and parts until it gets warmer.
I am about to try to check calibration of my torque wrenches.
I know I have some old free weights around here somewhere.

[Richard48Y]

Torque wrench calibration is not going well.
So I got my half-shafts apart instead.
With the ends off they are small and light.
I think I will see if the local drive-line shop might be able to make new ones at a good price.

[BDA]

Your previous post got me looking at videos for checking torque wrenches. There are several that are reasonable. I may be less reasonable as I use an electronic torque adapter from Harbor Freight (https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-250-ft-lb-digital-torque-adapter-58706.html?_br_psugg_q=electronic+torque+wrench). It could be argued that I'm just checking one torque wrench against another but it gives me enough confidence to think that my wrench is "close enough."

[dakazman]

Torque wrench calibration is not going well.
So I got my half-shafts apart instead.
With the ends off they are small and light.
I think I will see if the local drive-line shop might be able to make new ones at a good price.

  On the halfshafts , keep them matched.  At least that was what I was warned about. Balancing I believe.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

If the shafts are balanced, you’ll see the weights, then marking and reassembling in the same orientation is critical.  However, half-shafts are usually not balanced as they turn at a much slower speed than a driveshaft by a factor between 3:1 and 4:1.  When chasing a lingering high-speed vibration, I had the balance checked on mine.  They were well within tolerances and weights not were required.

[Richard48Y]

Webers are apart.
I noted that one of the leather sealing washers was deformed so possibly leaking.
There are sealed shaft bearings available as an "Upgrade" that I would like to do.
I already have steel shafts.
The search for a source other than feeBay continues.
There are kits for IDF that include new shafts, bearings, screws, and end linkage.
Have not found the same for DCOE. 

[BDA]

My favorite place for Weber parts is Pierce Manifolds (https://www.piercemanifolds.com/). Red Line is another option (https://www.redlineweber.com). They are the US Weber distributor. I don’t like their website though. r.d. enterprises has some nice linkages. I wouldn’t change the shafts unless you have to because it involves drilling a hole in the shaft for the accelerator pump linkage. I don’t think the bearings come out easily without taking the shaft out. That being the case, I wouldn’t bother with either unless one of them needs replacing. If I were to use the sealed bearings, I would still use the leather seals with them even though it might not be specifically required as the bearing seals are designed for grease, not air.

[Richard48Y]

http://www.redlineweber.com works but the link above goes off on a tangent.

Pierce has the IDF kits but I could not locate them for DCOE.
In any case it looks like the 'Web is dead for this so I will make calls on Monday.

[BDA]

Sorry about the Red Line link. I’m on my iPad and I couldn’t get it to copy the link in my reply so I just “typed” what I thought it was. Glad you found it anyway!

[jbcollier]

dellorto.com

They have just about everything.

[Richard48Y]

Minimal progress today.
I did bead blast and paint my rear uprights using a paint made for mag wheels.
The main reason to paint them is in the hope that they will be easier to clean later.
I had thought of having them powder painted but decided I am too cheap and impatient for that.
I expect the rest of my bearings this week.
Once I have them I should be able to get back to the VW Scirocco rear disk brake conversion.

[Richard48Y]

Still trying to do at least some small thing every day.
Today I tested my Rotozip tool and located a source for the correct blades.
This will make doing the square switch holes in the dash much easier.
I also taped together the "Bookend" "End-Match" grain for the Birdseye Maple veneer I have.
Working with random pieces so not a perfect match but it still came out well.
After cutting the radio and other holes there will be very little joint visible at the center of the dash anyway.
I am letting my veneer rest between two planks to flatten until I am ready for the next step.
The scary part of this is that the veneer is applied before cutting, so very easy to ruin it.

[Kendo]

If you’re worried about cutting the holes and edges after gluing, there is a knife-in-plastic-holder tool for doing just that. I borrowed one once to do some veneer trimming. It worked great.