The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[Richard48Y]

I was thinking that a Poly-bush version would be a fraction of the cost and last longer as well as being more rigid.
Time or money, I can never have both!

[Richard48Y]

Woo-Hoo, despite the language barrier I have now ordered the new 77.8mm sleeves from Mecaparts for my engine rebuild.
Now to get my pistons on the way!

[Richard48Y]

Parts purchases are slowed by the paranoia now prevalent for international purchases.
Orders keep being delayed by "Security measures" and need of one-time confirmation codes.
Why do I expect that the criminals are not being slowed?
Some parts have been ordered, but still having difficulty with the main order from Lotus Supplies.
The Inquiry followed by Invoice gets awkward if any changes are made.

[Richard48Y]

Replacement used "Intermediate shaft" on the way.
The old one might work but one bearing retainer loop is too loose for comfort.
I can just push the cap in and out.

Anyone used rod-end converted trailing arms?
Thinking to use an angled/pivoting poly-bush in place of the rod-end.

[Richard48Y]

More parts orders placed.
Trying to get as many critical engine parts as possible before the new year price increases.
Also seeing the exchange rate change daily, and not in my favor.
I ordered new fuel tanks and the left trailing arm before shipping cost also go up.
I only ordered one vanity item, the fake "Lotus" cast valve cover RD Ent. had on sale. 

[BDA]

Anyone used rod-end converted trailing arms?
Thinking to use an angled/pivoting poly-bush in place of the rod-end.

I'm don't think I'm familiar with the "angled/pivoting poly-bush" for the radius arm pivot. Back in the day, the Jensen Motors team used rod ends for that pivot on their TC race car but I think I prefer Serge's ball joint upgrade (https://youtu.be/0Os40ns8NiI).

[Richard48Y]

I was thinking of these.
So far all I can find are 5/8" x 5/8".
If necessary I could make my own to fit.
Less compliance than the factory ends and less metal to metal harshness than a rod-end.

[BDA]

What are you planning on the frame side? I would think you have some sort of solid mount?

Except for the radius arm pivot, the rest of the joints of my rear suspension are spherical rod ends (I have a twin link rear). I can’t compare the ride to another Europa (I hadn’t driven my stock Europa since the middle ‘70s) but I have been gradually converting to spherical rod ends and I haven’t really noticed any degradation in ride quality. At the moment my car is pretty stiffly sprung (250#/130#) and I may not be as sensitive to ride harshness as others so you might take that into account. I had heard solid rod ends produce a harsh ride but I think the harshness is oversold.

Teflon lined spherical rod ends are not lubricated but if you have an oil leak that gets on the rod end and road grit gets on the the ball, it can cause accelerated wear. That happened to me on the inner rod ends of the lower link. I got rubber boots to cover them and that seems helped a lot.

[GavinT]

Yeah . . understandably spherical rod ends on lower links or on dampers will sharpen suspension reaction times.
These perhaps won't impact NHV significantly because the gearbox is still mounted via compliant rubber. Similarly, dampers, by their nature, are compliant.

The forward end of the radius arm is different in that a ball joint actually replaces a compliant rubber mount with a solid connection. To what degree that introduces NHV is another matter.
Then there's the issue of 'zizzle' which can develop as ball joints wear but is probably less noticeable on links under a largely constant load.

I reckon what's needed is a much lower level of compliance – perhaps a stock TC/TCS gearbox mount might work to tighten up the compliance?

[Richard48Y]

I have been practicing with the MIG welder.
Hoping to replace some soft factory mounts with firmer versions.

[TurboFource]

The transmission mounts for my Twin Cam are really soft….I will be using a higher durometer polyurethane in them and the motor mounts.

[GavinT]

Do you have a source for the Poly mounts, Turbo?

[TurboFource]

I am making my own with urethane from McMaster-Carr...should have pictures when I do it next week...

[Richard48Y]

Email sent to Delta Cams in hope that my TS cam core may be restored for regrinding.
Then I just need to find a domestic cam grinder who will handle the job.
I think the guy who just sold his race car may have a suggestion.

My MG-F rear rotors arrived today.
I need to buy a set of pads but it looks like the aluminum VW Scirocco calipers may work fine.
An adapter should be pretty simple as the caliper and mount are integral.
Not so "Trick" as Wilwood but not nearly so expensive either and still an upgrade over the original drums.
Having the parking brake included will simplify matters as well.
The VW they come from weighs about 2,000 Lb. so they should be a good match.
I am not planning a lot of racing so am more interested in reducing fade than absolute stopping power.
When I tried to order the Wilwood calipers Serge mentions in his video Wilwood would not make them available.
I tried Summit Racing as suggested and they just never got back to me.
I did borrow Serge's free mount drawings as a starting point. 

Pics of parts.

[Richard48Y]

May have found a better end than regular rod ends.
Meant for 4X4 abuse so should last forever on a Lotus.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rkj-ce9112n7512