The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[jbcollier]

I hope you come up with something!  I too love the original appearance and balk at fitting any of the external scoops I’ve seen so far.  The 47’s NACA ducts are ok looking but not very useful.

All I have done is to duct the carb air intake low and in front of the wheel well.  Haven’t fit a thermocouple there yet to text it though.

[Clifton]

Since I am in bodywork mode the comments on engine compartment airflow have been on my mind.
Past discussion has the S2 recirculating warm air from the open rear back end, then IN through the deck vents.
TC escapes this by deleting the open rear end.
So my thought is to put a thin panel behind the original mesh.
But I wonder if there might be another way, such as louvers in place of the rear deck mesh?
Interested in suggestions, prefer to retain the original appearance as much as possible.

My MAF has a temp sensor as does my intercooler outlet that one get's air from above the deck. I've also been using two T type probes with a dual readout meter trying to find a way to get cool air to my filter. I'm in Phoenix and it's only a problem when 90* and above. I completely sealed the front driver side deck hole so air entering the filter must come only through the hole in the deck. It helped but hot air just circulates above the deck due to air exiting the other holes. I had a probe to measure air as it entered there too. I also made a small duct out of ABS, mounted in front of the driver side tank under the body to pick up air into the filter. This helped some but the flow was too low. Once it got too hot, over 100* I tore the interior out to re do. In a few weeks, I 'll continue to find a way to get it better. I picked up another ABS sheet and I'll try a wider duct under the body.

[GavinT]

Agreed that the rear air circulation is uninspiring to say the least but the deck vents do exit air to the outside world, but not any huge quantities from my observation.

My plan is to us the 47 style NACA ducts. I've calculated the area of one duct to be more than adequate to feed the carbs at standstill. At speed it'll flow more and I'll incorporate an air bleed within the engine compartment so as not to be force feeding the induction system. I intend to incorporate a flat panel paper filter using a housing from a common vehicle or make a fibreglass box to suit the same filter.

Hopefully I'll have most of this tucked up under the RH sail panel and connect a normal flexible duct to the air box. I figure that's perhaps the only place available to get ambient air that's relatively free of dust.
The LH duct? - dunno but I'll likely leave it free and let it contribute whatever to the engine bay air circulation.

[jbcollier]

The stock 47 NACA ducts will not flow sufficient air to feed the carbs.  It has been done. It didn’t work.  The carbs went very rich as the intake restriction acts like a choke.  By all means direct a NACA duct at the air intake but don’t seal it and make it the exclusive air source.

[Richard48Y]

OOF! Just paid over $700.00 for a new billet cam!
I usually pay less for a whole car, just saying. 
Guess they wanted the sale, they actually called me on the phone, from Belgium.

[jbcollier]

What cam did you go with?

[Richard48Y]

Chickened out and went with the mild one. 
Next step up might have had some advantages for dynamic compression but I need to restrain myself in the interest of longer engine life.
In about seven weeks I hope to present it to the engine, on a velvet pillow would be appropriate.

[jbcollier]

From Cat Cams?  Or Meca Parts?

[Richard48Y]

Cat Cams.
The expense is inspiring me to try again for a lighter valve train with lower seat pressure.

[jbcollier]

I think you made a good choice.  The other cam looked to me to be more like full race.  I would let go of the beehive springs and 6mm valves idea.  Just too much money for too little return.  Mind you, thus says the man who is famous for doing similar bone-headed things.  Try $3k worth of wheels that look exactly like stock steel wheels of which he has multiple sets!

[Richard48Y]

Getting closer.
Found 6mmx40mm intake valves at $38.00 each.
Available exhaust are a little small but larger may be available from another supplier?
With 6mm stems I can make guides with a smaller OD to clear the upper ID of Beehive springs.
7mm stems may be available from Europe, more research.

[jbcollier]

I thought Meca had valves with 7mm stems.  40mm is a bit small isn’t it?  Thought the higher output hemis had larger valves than that.

[Richard48Y]

I need to put all the notes together on a single page.
Cursed copy and paste from varied sites does not work well.
I think there are some 43mm intakes but 40mm is standard?
Mostly doing this in the evening.

[Richard48Y]

Got my Mercedes clone radiator fan today.
It will fit, but there is NO room to spare.

[jbcollier]

42/36 is the stock, large valve set-up.  43/37 can be made to fit.