The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[Richard48Y]

Semi-productive day.
Picked up TR6 engine parts from the machine shop and dropped off the Lotus block, rods, crank, and bearings.
They will measure the bearings to determine how much the crank should be ground rather than just "Assuming" .010".
Probably going to be a long wait for the crank to come back so the sooner it got dropped off the better.
Now I need to give the machine shop my bearing clearances.
My Renault 16 manual does not state any that I can find. 
The Europa manual says Mains at .0015/.0031 in (.038/.079 mm)
and Rods at .0007/.0228 in (.017/.058 mm). 
Engine will be high compression and slightly increased displacement.
Nevada is a moderately warm climate at the peak of my driving season and some spirited use is intended.
What would the consensus be for what I will want for oil clearance?

I also got my hacked intake back from being welded up.
Now I will reshape it and add the missing mounting hole.
Tomorrow is predicted to be warmer so I hope to apply seam sealer to the chassis as one more detail to fend off future rust.

[jbcollier]

When I'm building an engine, I shoot for 1.5 to 3 thou.  More than three, or less than 1.5, and I send it back to the machine shop.  This is for a street engine.  On a race engine you may want to be a tad "looser".

[Richard48Y]

Machine shop has been given clearance specs for the crank grind.
I may have the crank back in about a month. 

Seam sealer has been applied to the chassis so I should be able to paint it at the next warm day.
Any area I could locate that had an exposed gap or adjoining edge got sealed.
If the factory had done this we would have a lot fewer rust issues.

[Richard48Y]

Top and most of the inside of the Y is painted.
I will have to flip it over to do the rest of it.
I think that after the exterior is all done I am going to experiment with a solvent wand I have to try to get inside the frame head.
No way with a regular spray gun or brush.
Once the POR-15 is fully cured I will also apply Penetrol.

[BDA]

Very nice! 

[Richard48Y]

Do we know anyone in the US who has the rubber plugs and grommets for the chassis head?
I looked but only RD Ent. appeared to have the grommets, with no mention of the plugs.

I wish Dave Bean Engineering would update their site.
So many of the items shown have not been available for years.

Also on the hunt for S2 hub bearing and u-joints.
Have to assemble the rear hubs before I may complete my readr disc conversion.
It would be nice to have a roller!

[jbcollier]

Industrial supply shops sell solid grommets in a variety of sizes.  I'm sure McMaster Carr does as well.  Most of my holes were taped over from the factory.

[BDA]

I wish Dave Bean Engineering would update their site.
So many of the items shown have not been available for years.

Also on the hunt for S2 hub bearing and u-joints.

The last time I talked to Ken at DBE he didn’t hold out much hope that the website would be updated but that was before Roberta died. Does anyone know if the “new” (no longer associated with a Bean) DBE is making any changes?

I would think you would be able to find bearings at a bearings supplier or I would expect that DBE stocks them as well as the u-joints. Then you could find out any news about DBE when you order them and you can report back!   

[Richard48Y]

DBE are currently only open Mon-Thurs.
I hope to reach them on Monday.
The 31mm bore axle bearings are not available from any of the USA bearing houses.
I hope DBE have what I need.
I refuse to use Chinese parts as I will not risk their too likely failure.
So the big box chain stores are not even being looked at.
I will order from the UK if I must.

[BDA]

Good to know about Mon - Thursday.

Check my reply on the Technical Articles section about the inner bearing - or rather what Dave says about the inner bearing.

[Richard48Y]

Painting the bottom of the chassis this morning.
Also found my siphon spray gun originally intended to apply engine cleaner or other chemicals.
It will not apply a fine spray but will reach inside the frame head. 
Probably going to get some runs from it but that hardly matters inside the box sections.

[Richard48Y]

Siphon fluid gun worked pretty well.
I also touched up a few thin spots with a brush.
Now that I have to leave the chassis alone for a few days I am going after some of the smaller projects.

Today I port-matched my intake manifolds.
They had a step at the top of the port where the intake manifold was smaller than the head port.
This was crescent moon type of mis-match, the bottom was fine.
I marked the manifold face with a sharpie, then used a sharp U shaped scribe to reach into the port and scribe my line for an exact match.
I used the boring bar on my vertical mill to bore each branch of the manifolds.
Ports are nearly a perfect match now but I still have to do some blending.

[GavinT]

Did the PO run it with the mismatched ports?
Interestingly, your manifolds appear to be of the early type utilising the domed rubber insulators. I always liked that idea but don't know if the rubber parts are available. Still, not too difficult to cobble something similar, I expect.

I now also wonder if the missing/wrong bolt hole location isn't related to this manifold style somehow.

[Richard48Y]

Yes they did but since I have slightly increased the displacement a better port match can only help.
The existing rubber bits seem to be ok, I will probably apply a smear of Hylomar to the sealing surfaces.
New are available, I have seem them at one of the French suppliers.
I also made a small relief down the middle of the manifold face that spans the distributor boss. It had just a little interference and I want to be assured of a good seal.

Latest challenge is locating all new valves and guides, maybe Ti. spring retainers if I cannot work out the Beehive spring conversion.
The French sites are frustrating, even with translation some do not post prices, or pics, or they take you back to general engine parts rather than remaining within type.
In the morning I will try some US sources but since this is not a TC or even standard Renault I am doubtful of success.

Another thread got me to wondering about identifying the exact model, year, and original application of my head.
Pics of the head and what casting numbers I could find attached.

[Richard48Y]

Bought a lot of the rear suspension bits I need from Dave Bean Engineering this morning.
Ken confirmed that the business will continue.
The rear flanges and inner bearings will have to come from Lotus Supplies.
Since the 31mm bore inner bearings are a nuisance to get I am buying extra.