The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[GavinT]

Yep, black for the S2 as well.

For chassis paint I used red oxide primer and an alkyd enamel because it's supposed to be oil resistant and can be touched up if needed. That was followed by a generous 'sloshing' of old school fish oil to get into all the inner crevices and folds in the tin.

I reckon surface preparation is the single most important factor and often glossed over (see what I did there) affecting corrosion protection and longevity no matter what paint is chosen.

[TurboFource]

There was no primer on my chassis and looked like they slapped paint on it with a wide paint brush….and that was the way it came from the factory…

I used two coats of Ospho, followed by two coats of tractor primer then two coats of tractor black, figured if it will stay on a tractor it should stay on a car….way better coverage than original at least.

[Richard48Y]

Today was warm enough to pressure wash my chassis.
Most of the black paint came off but the grey primer is still good in most areas.
So I hope to only soda-blast as needed.
Nice to wash all the old anti-freeze out of the inside of the chassis.
From this point on anything I accomplish should count toward reassembly. 
Also putting in an order with Salv for the balance of engine parts.

[Richard48Y]

Email sent to GBS Alpine for prices on some of their tricky parts.
Fingers crossed that they are not too exorbitant.
I will pass along their reply.

[Richard48Y]

Ti. Valve spring retainers, e,254.00 a set.
I may do this if I cannot find the Beehive springs I really want.
Adjustable cam gear, e,165.00
Definitely getting this.
Timing chain kit, e,191.00
Not sure if that is a good price.
Should be available in North America.

[gideon]

Is this the same timing chain kit?  150 euros from Renault16Shop

https://www.renault16shop.com/1082a

[jbcollier]

134€ from MecaParts and that probably includes taxes that would be excluded from an export sale.

[Richard48Y]

When I buy the adjustable timing gear I do not need the fixed gear.
So hoping to be able to buy without it, or get an offset in price.

[GavinT]

The last one I bought was a 'Renold' brand chain.
Might be available from a regular power transmission outfit.

[Richard48Y]

Two bags of soda to blast my frame.
Yes, I will be doing some repairs. 
Not "Major" but required.
What gauge is the chassis metal?
Fame is not perfectly clean as the Soda does not take off rust.
But I have chemicals that should finish it up.
I am moving it back inside and putting it on waist high stands for a more comfortable work height.

[TurboFource]

I believe it is 16 gage

[Richard48Y]

Mic. says .069", which I have. 
I cut three small windows in the chassis head where the rust pitting was very deep. "Probably" would have been fine but it would have bothered me forever.
Also two shallow notches in the rear Y on each side to replace the flange that got buggered up when the DPO welded some sort of additional brackets on.
I will make patches for these and weld them in, then grind flush.
Been a while since I have welded thin steel so there will be some practicing first.
Oh, and the new HF right angle air grinder lasted about half an hour. 
Pretty pleased to make visible progress. 

[Richard48Y]

Once the chassis is clean the more you look the more flaws you will find. 
Fortunate for me that most are minor.
Some appear to have been from stress as they appear on both sides in nearly identical locations.
The one near the "Y" may be due to careless jacking, it was only an issue on one side.
I can say with certainty that just welding a crack is not a permanent solution, it just returns in the same spot, or right next to the weld. 
Most of the cracks I repaired had been welded before.
My solution is a series of gusset plates.
They are welded around the perimeter and also plug welded.
I am confident the chassis will not crack again at these repairs.
I will do a little more dressing around the edges but there really is no hiding the repairs. Good thing this is MY car and not intended to be flipped. 

Pics below.

[GavinT]

Yes, cracks appear where the legs of the Y change from angled to parallel. My theory is that a stress concentration arises from a combination of the weld and that small 90° return at each end of the gusset.

I welded the cracks but also made longer gussets (310mm) with 'softer' returns.
Hopefully this get's around the reoccurrence of a crack at the original welding site and that the longer softer gussets make for a smoother transition of the torsional loads.

As I say, that's my theory but I've never built a space shuttle, so if any structural engineers have some input, that'd be welcome.
Also, I'll be redoing some of those cocky s#it welds and just hope Turbo doesn't see them . . . 

[TurboFource]

They look fine from here Gavin......