The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[Richard48Y]

Copied into a folder.
Still not seeing some of the specs I would expect.
Sent a note to Salv hoping he will know.
I tend to want perfection so a regrind seems likely.
IF I may find a competent shop to do it.
Also plan to get it all balanced.
Local first rate shop no longer wants to do "Antique" engines so I have to find another.

Picking up my rods tomorrow, the pistons have been removed.

[GavinT]

Need to get the odd bits ordered for assembly.
Copper seals, flywheel lock tab, correct head gasket, bearings.....

In case you missed them, flywheel bolts too.

[Richard48Y]

R16 shop has them at e5.00 each.
Plus shipping and duty of course.
Alpine America may have them, just impossible to tell from their site.
Pretty common item so there should be others.
If I have to import them I intend to grab at least three sets.
Lock-plates too.

[Richard48Y]

Coolant tubes, gearshift, E-Brake cables, trailing arm mounts, and engine mounts now removed.
This leaves very little to have a completely stripped chassis.
So far I have not found any need for repairs.
Once I get the front suspension and closing plate off I will know for certain.

[GavinT]

Excellent.
Now's the time to weld the lower junction between the backbone and the T which is hidden under that aft 'flap' of sheet steel under the foot wells.

On those flywheel bolts, somewhere back in a distant memory someone said that Volvo bolts are the same - stretch bolts.
But, yes, probably not too difficult to find.

[Richard48Y]

Chassis is finally very nearly stripped. 
Front suspension is off.
Right side rack mount is being obstinate.
The bolts are seized in the mounts.
Letting it sit overnight after applying Kroil penetrant.

I think this car has been restored once before.
Then it saw little use before being put into covered storage.
I see no chassis rust.
I do see a patch or two with one looking like it may have been for the purpose of doing the T reinforcement.
Hoping to be able to take it to the commercial pressure washer tomorrow.

[BDA]

That's great news! I don't know how adventurous you are but if you're game, I would advise that you look into ways to give more access to the steering u-joint. Hopefully you'll only need to get in there once but even if that's true, having more room there makes dealing with it a lot easier. Of course, it pays dividends each time you need to get there.

[Richard48Y]

I curse both lack of past anti-seize use and very loose hardware pretty equally.
The mixed and loose hardware leaves me wondering if the DPO was careless or rushed?
I will be replacing a lot of hardware with stainless and using anti-seize as well as safety wire.
I do not want to add any additional holes to the chassis and will be looking for more rubber plugs.
Chassis is not perfect but certainly excellent for my daily driver build.
Worst case is that I may have to drill-out the two rack mount bolts.
DPO did rebuild the front suspension and brakes just before the car was parked.
I will certainly be going to a dual circuit MC at the least but really want dual MC's and a bias bar.
A balmy 36º F. in the shop but with a small propane heater nearby I persevered. 
Looking forward to actually putting parts back ON once the chassis is painted.

[Richard48Y]

Chassis is finally stripped of everything but the copper heater tubes. 
Hope to take it to a coin-op pressure washer in the morning.

[BDA]

I hope your pressure washer has hot water!

[Richard48Y]

Need to figure out which paint to use on the chassis.
Powder painting is not practical and there are some downsides to it.
Do not want cheap spray-can paint after all this work.
So probably black epoxy enamel if I can get some that will apply decently without having to wait until late April.

[BDA]

POR-15 is a popular choice. A friend used it on his Seven frame recently. He brushed it on but you can apparently spray it as well. It cures best in a humid environment but it works best to be applied to bare metal. It is sensitive to UV so a top coat to protect the POR-15 is generally recommended. Here is an FAQ: https://por15.com/pages/faqs and a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ckBJxW6mU.

[Richard48Y]

What color were the frames when they left the factory?
Is appears the bottom layer is grey with a layer of black over that.
In some areas the chassis has the original yellow body color.
Yellow under the R&P mounts too.

Only damage to the frame appears to be from ignorant "Mechanics" using a floor jack at poor locations.
I've already straitened most of that.
A couple of small cracks in the flanges of the Y section to TIG up.
I should probably add a gusset there too.

[jbcollier]

Yes, add a gusset.  Cracks show you where the stresses are.

Chassises were only body colour if there was overspray.

[BDA]

TC frames were black. I suspect Sw frames were also.