The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[GavinT]

Engine numbers of 821-02 and 7138.

The 821 likely indicates the original engine block.
If yours is a crossflow, then they may have used the original block and converted to the crossflow head.

Meant to take a pic of my brake MC, one line in, one line out, REALLY?!

Type 46 and 54's originally came with a single line system.
I think it was the US regulations that instigated changes to the dual line brakes.
I presumed all Type 65's came with that tandem system?

[Richard48Y]

Very interesting link.
There is a notice that files are not going to be saved after 30 days in the near future?
I cannot seem to save them to my MAC for later use.

With IR Webers I really have no choice but to upgrade.
Any IR Weber intake will have virtually no vacuum to run a booster unless modified to cross-connect the runners. But that also impairs the IR performance.

My engine is a cross-flow.
I am told it also has silly high compression and a wild cam.
I think in the 90's we were still able to buy the good leaded gasoline.
Now I expect to run a mix of 91"Supreme"  and 100LL Avgas.
Even when real fuel was available I used to do this for a crazy FIAT 850 Spyder I had as it was a lot cheaper than race gas.

EDIT: Found the download icon, putting those drawings into a folder now.

[jbcollier]

Only federal cars had dual circuit brakes.  All early cars and all Euro cars had single circuit brakes.

[Richard48Y]

Only federal cars had dual circuit brakes.  All early cars and all Euro cars had single circuit brakes.

Umm, thought that my car must be Fed. as it is type 65? 
0143, so early 71 actually made in '70? 
I know, I need to send off for a heritage certificate.

MC is not seized, anyone looking for this type to rebuild?

[Richard48Y]

Looks like the engine is not an original numbers match.
Also looks like I will be doing a cold compression test as I have not been able to get it to start.

Found out where my Weber rebuild gaskets are! Thanks to the miracle of modern computational machines a vendor may easily direct your shipment to the address you had twenty years ago.
Updating your address at the time the order is placed will make no difference as the shipping department will send to the first address that comes up.
So, a 130 mile round trip later in the week to fetch them.

[BDA]

At least you found them!

[Richard48Y]

Today I finally located the rear bulkhead cabin vents!
Looked several times and could not see them, resorted to Braille and there they were.
Right above the rear window.

Going to have to remove the remains of the headliner before doing any more interior exploration, it has dried to a yellow grit that gets everywhere.

[Richard48Y]

Minor find among the parts.

[Richard48Y]

Cold compression results left me cold.

1. 90 PSI.
2. 90 PSI.
3. 90 PSI.
4. 55 PSI.

Sat a long time but indoors.
Air filters and boot lid were not removed.
So the only moisture should have been condensation if the garage was unheated.
After twenty-two years it seems that may have been enough.

Looks like I get to master the intricacies of the Renault/Gordini.
Car is a bigger project than I had hoped so for now it's just in parts gather mode.
Really hoping I get to reuse the pistons as it seems the high performance variety are NLA.

[BDA]

Cold compression tests aren’t really good for anything other than a very basic idea of what’s going on, but your #4 cylinder looks like a problem. I assume those are for a dry test. Squirting a little oil in each cylinder would help you at least get an idea where your problem is. Another option is a leak down test which could give you more specific indication where it’s leaking.

[jbcollier]

Get it running if you can.  No engine sat that long will have a good cold compression reading.

[Richard48Y]

"Wet" test brought #4 up by 15 PSI.
So maybe a sticky valve, but I expect stuck rings.

When I drained the oil I thought I saw some very thin fluid just when it started to drain.
My guess is that it was water from condensation, just a small amount, but any is bad. 

[BDA]

I think JB is right. Try to get it running and then do a warm compression test and if you can, a leak down test. That should give you a better idea of the condition of your top end.

I’m curious what the wet compression numbers were for #1 - #3. Did they go up 15 psi too?

[Richard48Y]

Have to admit I did not do 1-3 wet as they were so very even.
Only #4 was lower and even with a 15 PSI increase it is still low.
Hope to have more time over the weekend.

[BDA]

My thought is that not only is the pressure number from a compression test important but also the difference between the cylinders is important - 10% or less is the difference we want.

90 psi is not generally a good compression test number but since you have a hot motor, which likely has a cam with a lot of overlap, that might be better than it appears. That’s why a leak down test is a very good test because it can not only tell how well your cylinder seals but also where there is leakage.

The oil in a compression test helps show if the leakage is mainly through the rings. If the compression pressure is much higher after adding oil, it indicates that the rings are worn. If you get a similar increase in pressure in your other cylinders, then I think you can assume that all your rings are in similar shape and your leakage is somewhere else - head gasket or valves.

Having said all that, I think JB is right. If you can get it running and warm it up, the results of your compression and leak down tests will be more useful.