The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[dakazman]

  Before using chemical stripper, I would ask the paint mfg what they would suggest or steer you away from .
  Dakazman

[Richard48Y]

Got a good start on stripping the engine cover today.
Found a lot of http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/Smileys/default/212.gif there.
Enough that I may be looking for an S2 type replacement.
Europa Engineering has them new, about $450.00 plus shipping.
Hoping someone else may also have them, USA would be best.
Mine is repairable, just a LOT of work.

[Richard48Y]

Cleaned the back side of six Cosmic wheels today.
I will use the five best and have one as a spare.
These are my "Period correct" wheels for when I am in the mood to run them.

Unable to do the engine or body work I would prefer right now so doing what I may.
Soda blaster works but is slow and the media is expensive.
So I switched over to carefully using glass bead in the blast cabinet.
Much more pleasant and faster.
I am also painting the clean aluminum with silver caliper paint.
Color is a pretty good match and a less porous surface will be much easier to clean in the future.
I don't know why the backside of aluminum wheels are left raw, I guess they are expected to be disposable.
I will move on to the front sides later.

[Richard48Y]

Impatience says I need to start on the more difficult front side of my Cosmic's.
To preserve the smooth finish of the bright portion it looks like I will be using chemical stripper.
Masking off the bright sections for blasting seems like a lot of work.
Particularly with ten wheels to do.
Need to decide, original black or change to Gold.
I think Gold would really accent the car with French Blue paint.
But Black is traditional. 

[kram350kram]

I refinished 5 Cosmic's and mounted the tires. A week later they were flat. I submerged them and found the castings were leaking, luckily on the back sides. A little peening with a punch and got them to seal. In retrospect I should have sealed the insides, maybe with Glyptal or similar. These are Cosmic MKI wheels. The fellow who machined the outer faces did say in passing they where known for their porosity. His statement didn't sink in until I saw the bubbles.   

[BDA]

I'm not familiar with Glyptal (I'm not in any way saying that is a bad choice) but I've heard epoxy paint recommended. I think it's your choice.

[kram350kram]

Glyptal is used in electric motors. Also internally in engine blocks for sealing casting sands and assisting with oil return. 

[Richard48Y]

I notice that the inside of the Cosmic's seems to have a fairly heavy coat of clear sealer of some sort.
Could be lacquer or ?
I have no plan to remove it.
One wheel seems to have had "Slime" added at some time.

[Richard48Y]

Had a long conversation with a Europa racer today.

I now know where to get rings for my Mahle pistons (Total seal) if they may be reused, Crane ground him a cam he is very happy with at .410 lift and 270 duration, BMW valve guides may be modified to fit TS heads.
http://www.gbsalpine.com/english/a110/catalog/p0016mot.html are another source of Renault engine bits. Their site has an option for English.

I will be sending him some pics after which he may have more suggestions for me.

[Richard48Y]

Cam for my TS headed S2
Clearly more lift than what I have now.
Should not be too radical?
Not cheap at Euro 550.

http://www.catcams.com/products/camshafts/datasheet.aspx?ENGINE_id=194&CAMSETUP_id=752&Language=english

                                intake                       exhaust
camshaft data:
lash ramp:                0.40mm0                  .40mm
duration @ 0.1mm:   :280°                        :280°
duration @ 1.0mm    : 236°                        :236°
valve lift                   : 10.00mm                 :10.00mm
cam lift                    : 6.25mm                    :6.25mm
lobe angle                : 110°                         :110°
timing @ 1.0mm       : 8° / 48°                    :48° / 8°
valve lift @ TDC        : 2.15mm                    :2.15mm

[GavinT]

The 807-12 and the Euro 17TS-844 engine (cooking versions of ~125HP) used a valve timing of 40/72/72/40.

Valve lift:
Inlet - 9.6mm; Ex. 9.5mm

This is a good cam IMHO and yours should be a bit better presuming compression, valve sizes etc. are in the ballpark.

[Richard48Y]

Got my engine mostly apart.
One bad cam lobe right at the nose, one piston with a chipped skirt.
So the build will be more expensive than I had hoped.
Crank is still standard.
Rod journals look perfect, one main may need to be polished.
Hoping I will not have to grind it 0.010".

[BDA]

The cam is a disappointment but you were prepared to replace it anyway, right? Of course, wear there could portend wear other places but it seems you've dodged that bullet.

[Richard48Y]

It seems I may have "Dodged a bullet" when I could not get the engine to run.
Cam looks like it would have destroyed the lifter, then the block?
Piston damage was ignored by the prior builder, I can see where he filed the rough edge.
I also found the cylinders out of order and not matched to the pistons.
I am disappointed that anyone would be so careless in assembling an engine.
I intend to do much better.

Rebooted and now pics seem to work.

[jbcollier]

Any time I deal with someone else's "rebuilt" anything, I expect the worst.  You always have to take it apart and check.