The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[Richard48Y]

If taking things apart is progress today was a good day.

Got the other door off and the dash out.
Labeled as many wires as possible but found several already dangling.
Worst are the one that change color along the way due to DPO.
Unhappy to find the loom from fuse block (Just 2, really?) to headlamps pretty much melted.
I am scrapping several Spridgets so have a source for correct color wiring and some indicator lights.
Glad to see that a new binnacle and formed heater hoses are available and not expensive.
But it looks like I can buy the correct dies for my tube bender for much less than the stainless transfer tube price.
Found that I will have to remove the windshield to get the dash pad off since the pad is riveted to the body.
Not looking forward to that and putting it off until I may make a crate to store it.

[BDA]

Every step in your journey is a good step. If you do end up needing wiring supplies, http://www.britishwiring.com/Default.asp is your friend.

Some people have replaced their minimal fuse box with a more substantial fuse boxes. I think that’s probably a good idea.

Good luck and keep us up to date!

[Richard48Y]

Got the old veneer layer off the dash.
Surprised to find another veneer on the back which will need some repair unless I replace the whole dash.
Anyone have a drawing for cutting a new one?

The replacement veneer I had hoped to use is less than 2" too short. 
I have another piece that may work if I book-end it at the center.
Not sure what it is, it may be birds-eye maple.
It has a lot of 'Figure'. 
Currently have it laying under some books to flatten out so that it may become easier to work with.

I already have a professional vacuum laminating system but may have to purchase a larger bag.

Need to practice on scrap before doing the dash.

These guys seem the easiest to work with for supplies, https://www.veneersupplies.com

[Richard48Y]

Body is unbolted!
Not removed yet but once I disconnect the steering column, seat belts, and a few odd bits it will be ready.

[BDA]

That didn't seem to take long. How long did it take you? I have a friend who is considering a body off restoration and I tried to reassure him that it wasn't THAT big a deal to take the body off but it had been so long since I had done it, I couldn't be very specific about the effort involved.

[Richard48Y]

With two people it would be pretty simple, maybe two hours for the fourteen body bolts and a couple more for cables, wiring and brake pipe?
By myself, about twelve hours!
My efforts were complicated by the need to reach inside and under the car at the same time.
Seat sliders being rusty also slowed me down since they would not move. Ended up cutting and grinding off the rear bolts.
I will be setting it on some steel saw-horses until I have the rotisserie fixtures made.

I intend to modify some of the mounting hardware for simpler one man work in the future.
Mostly making bolts semi-captive and reversing a couple so they do not protrude so far under the car.

[Richard48Y]

In addition to the 14 body bolts there are the inner seatbelt bolts and some wiring grounded to the chassis.
Also remove the brake reservoir.
I think I am ready to lift it up now.

[BDA]

 

[Richard48Y]

Step forward, step back.
Found that the upper pulley bearing on my forklift mast is seized.
As a one-man band I will have to repair that before lifting the body.
I can work on removing the interior for now.

[Gary t]

Richard
A new instrument panel is easy if the old one is in reasonable shape. Just bolt the new veneered blank to the old one using the mounting holes, and flush router. Finish and your done.

[dakazman]

  I know what you mean Rich. Sometimes our tools can’t keep up with us.
Nice progress. The veneer shop is where I purchased mine , strange thing though I bought a package deal of 3 -12 x 48 pieces . Looks like they stopped those listings.
Dakazman

[Richard48Y]

Found a few more items to remove.
Heater box hoses, more ground wires, and a bolt holding a tab on the fuel tank to the body.
Annoyed that neither metric or imperial tubing wrenches appear to fit the brake line.
I suppose I will try my BS wrenches but none are made for tubing nuts.
According to some instructions I also need to remove the hand brake pivot and pedal box assembly.

Having gotten into it this deep I am certain this will be the second body-off rebuild.
The French Blue? color change is just too through to have been done with the car assembled.

So far the chassis looks to be excellent, body off will be the big reveal.

[Richard48Y]

I have no idea what the DPO was thinking in adding these chunks of ugly angle-iron at the rear of the chassis?

There is one on each side and they attach to nothing.
Looks like saw and grinder time unless someone here has a good reason for me to keep them.

[BDA]

I have no idea what they would be for. If you don't have a use for them, get rid of them.

[Richard48Y]

And found a few more bolts to remove.
Pedal assembly has four.
Also screws holding the brake line union.
I think I have all of them now but the front is not coming up easily.
Maybe wedged on, or glue?
Proceeding carefully!