Europa push/pull body strong points?

[Richard48Y]

Europa push/pull body strong points?
Checked out a U-Haul box truck and found that there are no good points to anchor any sort of come-along apparatus. 
This means I will have to push/pull the Lotus into the box truck.
Obviously will not be pushing directly on the chassis, leaving only the body.
Do hope to tie it in at the chassis, but even that is going to be tricky as there are no real good tie points and very limited access.
I expect to be putting in some wood blocks and setting the hand brake.
I am taking some ratchet straps with me, just not certain how I will use them.

Body is supposed to be accident free, I want to keep it that way.

[TurboFource]

On Saturday when we loaded my Europa we went all the way under the car to the rear hoop with a large ratcheting cargo strap and step by agonizing step winched it up the ramp, it was agonizing because of the four flats😐

[Pfreen]

The rear hoop is the best place to pull the the car onto a hauler.  I have not done it, but I have seen it done on another Europa getting towed.

[Richard48Y]

Problem is that I do not see a way to pull with no forward attachment point.

[EuropaTC]

What I did when we had the Europa trailered down here was to use a rope around the lower suspension chassis attachment bolt at the front. The rope went around the rear lower wishbone bolt and down underneath the chassis T section & coming out between the roll bar & closing plate.   A big loop which the transport guy could link into and winch the car onto the flatbed as the car wasn't mobile at the time.

The guy transported classics for a living and was very careful, for example he had several ramps which he laid down to create a long gentle slope so that the rope/winch didn't push on the front bodywork. Doors/bonnets all locked as well.

The stress point from the rope is probably as close as possible to the chassis front T section and it's putting the T into compression rather than just looping around the front lower wishbone and pulling. Providing you avoid pulling on mid/outer ends of the wishbones or rear lower links you should be ok ?

Brian

[Grumblebuns]

When I brought my last car home, my backup plan in case the car wouldn't roll easily enough to push onto the trailer by pushing was to use a nylon tow strap around the rear transaxle hoop and hook the tow cable to that and ratchet the car onto the trailer. Didn't have to resort to that, but it should work.

[gideon]

I think a trailer would be easier (and safer), but if you're determined then here is what one person did to carry two motorcycles in a rented box truck

https://imgur.com/gallery/yF1fY

Essentially they created a second floor from OSB, and screwed things into that to secure the load.  Something along those lines might also help with providing an anchor point for a come-along (use the rear hoop and load the car backwards). 

Make sure you know in advance the floor height of the truck you will get and calculate exactly how long the ramps need to be avoid scraping anything at the top or the bottom.  One way to be sure of that would be to make a 2D scale model out of paper or cardboard to test the dimensions.  The diagram in this post might help.

http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1747.msg16215#msg16215

I think you're going to need long ramps.

[4129R]

Do not pull on the drop links from the suspension bolts to the anti-roll bar. The weld shears on the roll bar.

I used a long chain through both bottom suspension arms, and a tow rope to the centre of the chain.

[Lotuswins]

It sounds like you are really cheaping out on this move.  It is going to cost more if you damage something.  Do not chain down to the chassis, it is not designed to take those loads and is only made of sheet metal.  I only tie to the tires, looping a belt over each tire and chinch down, leaving the suspension able to move as it was designed to.  With limited access in a 'box' truck you can't really access it to do this, since you need something to tie down to. 

Get a grip and use a trailer.

Jerry Rude
4005R

[4129R]

If you want to tow the Europa, you need to pull on the chassis.

If you want to tie down a Europa, the wheels are by far the best option.

[Richard48Y]

Made it home safely, 918 miles.
Seller had the Europa on a snow-mobile trailer which sits higher than a car trailer.
Wood planks as ramps made for a gentle slope that was easy to push the car up.

Found out that a 15' U-haul is NOT actually 15' at deck level. 
Too late to change plans at that point so made do.
With air travel, truck rental, fuel, meals, and motels this still cost about $1,200.00 to do. So not a lot less than the best U-Ship quote that would have been on "An open carrier".
I have more confidence in myself than strangers. It also seems clear this car has been lowered, I really question that it could be put on a standard open carrier.

Hope to unload in the morning, basically reversing how it was loaded.
Truck to my trailer, then to ground.

Pics.

[BDA]

I think she’ll make a great project! I would bet that the lowering is simply a spring perch setting. It may indicate that she has springs you may or may not want. If the PO can tell you about them, it would be helpful.

Congratulations on your new baby! I can’t wait to hear and see more about her!

[Richard48Y]

Forgot the brand, but it has $$ adjustable shocks.
Not only damping but threaded spring collars.
Also found that it has adjustable rear links.
Car really is more race than street, just the way I like it. 

[jbcollier]

Glad you're both safe home.

[Sandyman]

Richard, She looks great! Glad you got her home safely. I can see lots of go fast mods. I hope you will use the incredible resource that is RD Enterprises. George and Ray have been fantastic helping me get my Europa on the road. I have heard that there is a California parts supplier who has no web presence (Phone only). Would it be possible to keep all your posts on one thread so I don,t miss an entry?
Sandy