Europa TCST

[BDA]

r.d. may have it. You'll have to give them a call.

SJS has the electrical part (https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ075M0013.htm)

[TurboFource]

It ended up that one of the wires was disconnected from the ignition switch, it is kind of intermittent working so I am going to order a new one to eliminate potential near future issues. I was now able to link my iPad to my 123ignition and load my baseline timing curves The fuel pump comes on and momentarily turning to start and I hear the starter solenoid 

I am going to have to get a fuel pressure regulator as the pump is putting out 3.5 psi and overwhelming the float …. 

[BDA]

 

Do you really thing that 3.5 psi is overwhelming the float? That seems like reasonable fuel pressure to me but then I'm no Stromberg (or any other carburetor, for that matter) expert.

[Clifton]

Do you really thing that 3.5 psi is overwhelming the float? That seems like reasonable fuel pressure to me but then I'm no Stromberg (or any other carburetor, for that matter) expert.

I agree. I've only had Webers and Hitachi SU's. If the float level is set and needle seals.

TurboForce, I don't know 123ignition, can you retard timing with boost on?

[TurboFource]

Clifton, yes. I have boost retard programmed into it.

I am going to bench test carb hooked up to fuel pump, it is hard to see what is going on when it is on the engine … it’s kind of cramped 
 
I double checked float height yesterday and it is 17mm.

New ignition switch on the way too.

[TurboFource]

It’s definitely leaking out of the float bowl vent. The factory manual says the stock fuel pump should be
1.25  -  2.5 psi .  I can’t blow air through the fuel needle jet so it seems good. I ordered a regulator and I am going to set it at 2.5 psi and see how that works out.

[TurboFource]

Had to buy a bottle ….. 

[TurboFource]

I started off with high hopes for the day …. But now have another quote to add to the list of murphyisms.

“You are only one chinesium part away from a bad day  “.

The new fuel pressure regulator I just got would not go below 3 psi even though it is rated to produce 1 - 4 psi, I even took the adjusting screw and external spring out of it completely and wasted quite a bit of time trying to make it work to no avail…

So I thought “instead of trying to control the pressure mechanically why not bleed it off with a controlled orifice (because simplify too …).

Turns out a bypass line with a 1/16” hole produced 2 psi with one pump and 2.5 psi with the “boost” pump on also, most importantly the carb seems happy with it

So remember your ABCs….. anything but chinesium!

[BDA]

Clever solution to your problem!

You should be glad you figured this out. If that regulator started leaking, like I've heard the often do, this story might have been very sad!!

[TurboFource]

I was hoping for first start today …. But …. I think I had my ignition timing off, just spoke with Ed at 123 and sent him a short video of me setting static timing and he confirmed it is now correct.

On the bright side I learned -
- How to correctly set my 123 distributor (not sure how I goofed that up but I did  )
- That a lawnmower battery will crank over a Twin Cam for quite awhile when try to start it with the timing off!
- That it makes 60psi of oil pressure while cranking it   
- Dang carb still overflowing (maybe from all the cranking?)

First start tomorrow?

[TC2000]

- Chased threads for seat belt bolt and frame mount (had to the find the die etc which took a bit)

HI,
Do you know what is the thread for the belt bolts each side of the central tunnel?
I suppose they are bolted in a threaded tube welded to the frame, right?

Thanks,

[jbcollier]

7/16NF

Just nuts spot welded to the chassis.

[TurboFource]

The Twin Cams have a tube that is threaded on each end for the seat belts that goes all the way through the chassis and welded on each side.

[jbcollier]

Moderately sure that is nit tge case on an S1 but it has been a while since I peeped inside.

[TurboFource]

My Mighty Vac died so I went get a new one and discovered they are now chinesium so I bought a different brand that does both vacuum and pressure. So I decided to check my fuel inlet valve with the pressure from it to discover that the valve wasn’t leaking but it was leaking between the aluminum sealing washer and the carb body (used soapy water)! The washer is flat so I figure the unmachined surface that it seats on isn’t flat.  I am going to try a fuel and heat resistant non-hardening sealant on the threads.