Europa TCST

[BDA]

Very cool!

[TurboFource]

Two steps forward, one step back (so back to work!).....

- Decided to simulate running temp (since my garage was cool when I set the end play) and heated rear housings and stub axles since aluminum expansion rate is twice that of steel...they still spin freely 
- New 3D printed carbon fiber reinforced nylon seal holders glued into housings
- Polished "seal" surface on flanges
- Replaced spindly rear wheel studs with 12 x 50 mm Rover ones
- Upgraded turbo heat shield to a "titanium" blanket

[TurboFource]

- The counter bore for my brake drum spacers (I eliminated the outer spacer to get full spline engagement) were not deep enough (I couldn't find my sketch so I don't know if the sketch or machining was off) so I did more wood lathe machining (don't try this at your house )
- Ready to start putting rear suspension on chassis 

[cwtech]

Does the brake backing plate need to be spaced out also?

[TurboFource]

Nope...this is to get the drum back to it's original distance from the backing plate since the spacer was removed from between the flange and the outer bearing.

[TurboFource]

The existing 1/8" NPT drains would not keep gear oil in, went to 1/4" NPT and Loctited in
Some 1/4 to 1/8 reducers so they would seal. Installing u-joints .... Hopefully rear suspension on tomorrow.

[TurboFource]

Today......



Love these wheels

[TurboFource]

Before....

[dakazman]

   
    Simply amazing craftmanship turbo, your before and after shots mad me chuckle.

   I can see a few orders coming your way. Keep up the momentum.

   BY THE WAY, THE WHEELS LOOK AMAZING. I may have to strip mine down.

Dakazman

[BDA]

What size are your wheels, Turbo?

[TurboFource]

15s

[BDA]

15 x 7?

[TurboFource]

Double checked my flange shims and found if I used a ratcheting strap to make sure the u-joint flange was all the way in, I got a different result than I previously did. So I reshimmed them and installed the spring pin with the strap in place. The spring pin is also thicker in one direction because of the way they are wound. I put this thickest dimension in line with the axle so I had the maximum thickness (diameter) holding the flange against the shims etc.

[Bryan Boyle]

Double checked my flange shims and found if I used a ratcheting strap to make sure the u-joint flange was all the way in, I got a different result than I previously did. So I reshimmed them and installed the spring pin with the strap in place. The spring pin is also thicker in one direction because of the way they are wound. I put this thickest dimension in line with the axle so I had the maximum thickness (diameter) holding the flange against the shims etc.

Ratchet straps have lots of uses...did this with my S2 to get the yokes fully seated back in the day (using the 7mm/4mm combo that was called out for that assembly) and never had a problem with loose yokes and got the holes lined up properly (yoke holes just an RCH to the outside) to get the tension properly.

Nice going.

[TurboFource]

I have been wondering for awhile now if eliminating the outer spacer to gain spline engagement
would end up with the flange hitting the wheel cylinders.....

I no longer have to wonder because they do! Some clearancing of the flange provided clearance.
(There is more clearance now than in the picture as my new wheel cylinders are slightly different in shape.) My spacers seem to be good as the brakes went together and nothing seems to be rubbing.

Brakes were a little challenging as I didn't take any pictures as I thought they were in the Lotus manual.....rear brakes for Specials are not, so I had to scratch my head for a moment and look at my pile of brake parts.....

(I have new lock washers for the flange nuts, I just used the old ones while test fitting.)