Europa TCST

[Certified Lotus]

I used a small compressed air grinder with a cut off wheel to cut thru the nuts and steel shaft inside the door to remove my completely rusted “hinge” assembly. There are pictures in my rebuild post.

It had been suggested to use a hack saw between the body and door. Even after taping everything it was evident that there might be some fiberglass repair needed afterward. I decided not to chance it and went the inside the door route.

Of all the work I did on my Europa, this was the most pain in the ass job of any. The second most was re-installing the doors and aligning them with new “hinges”.

Hmmmmm. Now that I think about it, installing the rear window was the most PIA job.........

[TurboFource]

We will see how it goes, I bought some 9" long metal cutting sawzall blades today. Will try to avoid fiber glass damage but as the car needs paint it would not be that big a deal if some minor scrapes occur. Thanks for the advice everyone.....I know this will be challenging.....

[TurboFource]

Has anyone with the all stainless hinge sets had any issues with galling? Stainless on stainless for moving parts can be troublesome.....

[BDA]

I thought that would be a problem to but I have not heard a single complaint from anybody who has them.

[GavinT]

Has anyone with the all stainless hinge sets had any issues with galling? Stainless on stainless for moving parts can be troublesome.....

Hate to say this, but . . . given the pins likely don't move in the bosses, galling probably won't happen! 

[Bainford]

Has anyone with the all stainless hinge sets had any issues with galling? Stainless on stainless for moving parts can be troublesome.....

The potential for galling is the primary reason I have chosen to go with the brass hinge kit from Banks. The propensity for galling has a lot to do with the grade of ss used, and I’ve not heard of any problems so they are probably ok, but the environment in which they live and operating dynamics of the hinges seems it could potentially invite trouble. Having dealt with galling ss many times over the years, I avoid the material for such applications whenever possible. Once that stuff ‘picks up’, the moving parts are as good as welded together.

[BDA]

The Banks brass setup has the additional benefit that once the door is aligned, you can take the door off an only the height needs to be adjusted.

I thought the Banks setup would be easier to set up but people who use r.d.'s hinges seem to get them adjusted pretty quickly so I'm not sure one is any easier than the other.

[Lou Drozdowski]

We will see how it goes, I bought some 9" long metal cutting sawzall blades today. Will try to avoid fiber glass damage but as the car needs paint it would not be that big a deal if some minor scrapes occur. Thanks for the advice everyone.....I know this will be challenging.....

I've done eight separate door's to date...they all sucked!
Take the sill (If you have one) off
Get the smallest palm grinder/cutter wheel you feel comfortable with.
Fab a small shield of thin scrap to protect the glass from an accident.
Working from the inside.. put your goggles on & let the sparks fly!
Your hands will get tired!...multiple slices may be required, you may have to drive out the lower portion of the pin.

I have always used the new replacement stainless pins...however, they are a bitch to get right and will try your patience to no end.

The next one I do will be the Banks brass...The time saved on refit adjustments is worth the cost.




 

[rjbaren]

I had my hinges replaced at British car shop that is very familiar with Europa hinges.  I bought a pair of stainless hinges from Bean.  The shop installed them just fine.  After a few months the passenger door began to sag, even though only three people have even been in the passenger seat.  I tried adjusting it and had no success.  The car went back to the shop for other stuff and they fixed the sagging door but, they said if the hinges had used a fine thread it would have been much easier to adjust.  If the Banks hinges are a fine thread I may have them changed if the doors begin to sag again. 

[jbcollier]

The door sags because it slips on the fibreglass/bobbin of the door.  You need to have good friction washers to hold it in place.  I made mine out of coarse abrasive paper (can't remember the grade).  I made them tight against the body of the hinge pivot so I only needed abrasive on one side.  No problems with slipping (knock on wood).

It is also important that you do not lean on the door, nor use it to pull yourself up.  The length of the door is a long lever trying to make those hinges slip.  I made up these for my doors:

[jbcollier]

I use the "Banks" hinges myself.  What most people don't realize is that they are not a hinge, just an adjustable brass pivot working against the body bobbin.  It settles/wears into place and requires a few cycles of snugging up before it is stable.

[TurboFource]

Found a deal on a stainless set so I will give them a try and use plenty of never seize and polish all wear surfaces before assembly.

[Sandyman]

As with JB I found that the RD supplied friction material did not work. I used a 80 grit sanding disc cut to match the available surface (4 per door). No slippage so far.
Sandy

[GavinT]

Made my abrasive washers out of those dry wall sanding sheets.
They're some kind of synthetic matrix with gritty bits stuck to them and seem to be largely impervious to water.

I used one of the fine grades because I figured the course bits would be crushed in any case.

[Gary t]

++ on the drywall sanding sheet.
I even had a supply from the last reno.