Europa TCST

[dakazman]

My first challenge will be trying to get a jack under a Europa with four flat tires.....

   Those pesky little jobs. 

       
 Dakazman 

[TurboFource]

Dakazman,
The aggravation level has been from low to high and all over the place on this project I am still enjoying it though

That first challenge was easier!

[TurboFource]

Progress update.....

Calipers painted (bundy pipes on back order, waiting for them to ship with my SS pistons etc).

Rear suspension disassembled with no issues

More critter debris in rear suspension arms 

I was concerned about the condition of my rear stub axles and hub splines as the car was/will be turbocharged and since CW said boost would spike to 12lbs it was making decent power! There is no evidence of movement between the two and I cannot press them back together by hand There is some minor fretting on the bearing spacers. Uprights were drilled and fitted with grease fittings....quite a bit of grease in them! And the bearings are still a press fit in the housings!

[BDA]

It's interesting that a PO put a grease zerk on the bottom of the upright but then there might have already been a hole there (memory fades...). In any case, it would require you to fill the entire upright with grease to do any good. The bearings I got for my car were completely sealed which I think is a better solution.

Your splines don't look bad to my untrained eye. Keep in mind that you'll be using loctite that is designed to fill gaps in splines. I'm more concerned with the "lands" for the inner races of our bearings. I think polishing them up and using loctite for bearings (seems I remember people using that but I didn't so I don't have any real experience with it) should work fine - but I might check me with someone with more practical experience.

The rear stub axles are a weak point and if you have significantly more torque - and use it frequently - you should probably look into alternatives. If you are intending to maintain the stock rear suspension setup, you might look into a set of hardened set of stub axles. Lotus Supplies (https://www.lotus-supplies.com/parts/suspension/rear-corners/outboard-shaft-assembly-en24-billet-modified-tc/) and Kelvedon (https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/product/race-drive-shaft-kit/) have their own. Dave Bean might have their own stronger stub axles but you'll have to call them to find out.

If you use a twin link design (either Lotus Supplies or Richard Mann's design) you might want to use stub axles from a VW (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4782.0). You could use those other uprated stub axles with these twin link setups too.

[TurboFource]

Yikes! they are kind of pricey!

I may look into the VW ones......main goal is to get this on the road without to many trips down rabbit holes that end
up making more work at this point

[BDA]

I didn't mean to scare you. By "and use it [torque] frequently" I meant seriously high stress use. I did not mean fast highway driving, occasional auto crossing, or fun on twisty roads. With that, I should also say that I've heard of only one or two people who have had stub axle failures so it can happen. I think after you clean up your stub axles, they will be fine for use on the street and auto crossing. You could have them checked by a machine shop to make sure they are good. New ones are also available. If you are going to track your car, you would probably want to upgrade them.

For what it's worth, and it's probably not much, I still have the stock stub axles (though I know mine's history and age). My engine tops out at about 130 ft-lbs of torque. Upgrading the stub axles is a future project I'm seriously considering but for now I feel pretty confident in what I have. I don't track my car and haven't auto crossed it so far but I might. I don't go crazy on the street but I do like to lean on it a bit from time to time. The reason I am planning on upgrading the stub axles is just for added peace of mind and to strengthen a weak point.

There are other stub axle upgrades you could consider if you have worries. This one (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/suspension/aubin.html) involves converting a Corvair stub axle and this one (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/suspension/BMW%20STUB%20AXLE%20AUG%202005.html) involves converting BMW stub axles. Finally, this one (https://www.prevanders.net/europa/rearaxle.html) which appears to use a modified "standard" axle of some description. The website says that the builder's email address is email address is davea42 at linuxmail.org. Unfortunately, that car was sold a while ago so he may no longer have information and there's not guarantee that that email address is still good but it would be worth a try. It looks like a pretty economical way to get a stouter axle setup.

[TurboFource]

Some shiny stuff showed up....and then was installed

[Exlimey]

Working on brakes,I have to recommend speedbleeders, they make the bleeding process a single handed operation.

[TurboFource]

Just cleaning up rear suspension pieces to paint. Wasn't happy with spring compressor when I used it on the front shocks so I am making a new piece out of an unused exhaust flange to hold the shock and probably some all thread to extend it....

[TurboFource]

Fabbed together spring compressor works great! I had a far easier time with rear shocks than fighting with the front ones!

[GavinT]

I like that exhaust flange idea . . the way it properly locates the damper and prevents escape under pressure . . . like a cranky wife. 
Looks like it was made for the job and a lot quicker & better than making it from flat plate.

[BDA]

I like the exhaust flange idea too. It's a lot nicer than my first spring compressor which was made from two squares of 1/2" plate and two lengths 5/16 or 3/8 all thread. The plates had holds burned into them in sizes to catch the upper spring mount and the lower end of the shock tube. I finally settled on a rod a little less than 1/2" in diameter with two 5/16" holes drilled through either end (radially). The holes are oversized to allow for misalignment of the 'J" bolts. It goes in the lower mount eye and two 'J' bolts - such as might be used for holding down a battery - are hooked to either side of the spring and the other end through the holes in the rod. A nut and washer on the end of the 'J" bolts is turned to compress the spring. It sounds more complicated than it really is. My springs are shorter than stock so this might be more appropriate for my springs but I think it would work for stock springs, too.

Just a thought...

[rjbaren]

There is another guy undertaking the rear axel of the Europa.  He has an add on Ebay for S1 S2 rear axel shaft  and he is in Clarkston, MI.  I copied the text of his add below.   I think he is also working on front and rear Knockoff option for the Europa TC and is looking for hubs to borrow to get the measurements he needs.  I am from Michigan so when I get back there I will bring him my front hubs but I don't have any rear hubs off the car.   Here is his email:   dvdmeisel@gmail.com  Meisel Industries Clarkston, MI 248-245-7872.


The kit includes everything required to replace the woefully inadequate factory materials and design of the rear stub axle, bearing spacer and wheel flange.

Some advantages are:
1. All parts are made from billet 4140 chrome moly steel hardened to 40 Rc.
2. The stub axle thread is increased to a 7/8"-14 thread.
3. Our 3 key with smooth-shaft design locates tighter within the wheel hub.
4. Assembly procedure is virtually identical to factory original.


Free shipping to the lower 48 U.S..
Overseas orders must be shipped via. Ebay international shipping program.

[TurboFource]

Moving anti-roll bar up.....not so easy in this busy area of the car....

I think I have a solution for the end link end......

[tedtaylor]

WHY???   i think it's a bad idea...   keep as-designed original bottom position.