Europa TCST

[TurboFource]

I think I have had one work session so far that did not require a grinder/sawzall/hacksaw/drill to remove hardware..... .     Hopefully the worst of it has passed!

[TurboFource]

Found this ......glad I will not have to go through emissions or any inspection with it

[HelpMyLotus]

WOW!  This is the kind of stuff I love to see. What history.  What technology for the time.    If you need a full roof section I have it.  I'd make a deal you can't refuse.

Keep posting.  Love it!

[cwtech]

Found this ......glad I will not have to go through emissions or any inspection with it

There's a story behind that document.

While trying to tune the single Weber 45DCOE, the car was running extremely rich.  ....The car stalled in the inspection line, wouldn't re-start, and I needed to be pushed out of the building, which prompted a "failed" inspection sticker. 

I asked how I could fail emissions if the car wasn't running.  ...They didn't think that was as funny as I did.

Of course, once outside, it re-started.  ...I cut my losses and left to return another day.

[TurboFource]

Steering column and shaft removed today. Found it easiest to remove the emergency brake handle and sit on the floor to get the two steering column bracket bolts loosened from the dash bracket (door needs removed for this).

How do you get the push rod out of the master cylinder?

[BDA]

Congratulations on your progress!!

IIRC, under the rubber "boot" there is a "washer" that is held in by a circlip. The end of the push rod is larger and rounded and doesn't fit through the "washer." So if I got it right, disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal at the clevis (there is a pin through the clevis and pedal that is retained by a small cotter pin), take the M/C off the frame, take the rubber boot off the M/C and push it down the push rod.  You should see the washer and the circlip. Take out the circlip and pull the pushrod out of the M/C. Something like that. There really isn't a trick to it...

[TurboFource]

So I need to remove the master cylinder to get the body off the chassis?

[TurboFource]

Couldn't get the clevis off the brake rod and could not get the top master cylinder bolt off ....
Knowing I had to replace the bottom of the T-section, I cut a hole in it and had another awkward hacksaw session to cut through the brake rod ( I will weld it back together later).

Pics:
1) Found out why bottom T-section probably rotted out .... More critter debris and their pee probably rusted the floor of their Europa dwelling place....
2) Brake rod hacked in two.

[BDA]

Sorry, I didn't see your previous post... I think the answer is yes, you need to take the M/C off to take the body off. You have to take the M/C push rod out to take the body off and I believe the only way you can take it out is to detach it from the M/C. My memory is a little fuzzy there but I think that's right. BTW, if you're planning on keeping your M/C I would recommend White Post Restorations (https://whitepost.com/#hometop) to rebuild it. They seem to be able to rebuild any hydraulic bit from any car and they line the bore with copper (or is it brass?) so the bore should never need attention again.

You certainly have your work cut out for you! I don't think I remember critters taking up lodging in the 'T' section before!

I've probably already suggested to make more access to the steering u-joint (but you'll just have to live with that. Wait till you start talking about your dash and you'll get tired of me reminding you to finish both sides and all the edges to keep moisture out!). If you can find someone with a flaring die punch (I think I've heard them called a chassis punch). Eastwood has them but you might want to find someone who has one already. Alternatively, you could probably fabricate something.

[dakazman]

Steering column and shaft removed today. Found it easiest to remove the emergency brake handle and sit on the floor to get the two steering column bracket bolts loosened from the dash bracket (door needs removed for this).

  Thanks Turbo , I' doing the reverse soon, thanks for the heads up. I'm still not gong to take off doors. I just put on the master cylinder and rods. my last c'clip going in soon.
dakazman   

[TurboFource]

Today I undid the clutch, speedometer, choke etc cables. Also undid oil pressure tube under dash and all wiring/tubing for the six additional gauges and thermocouples that were added to monitor the turbo setup.

One more check for anything I might I have missed and all I have left to undo are the remaining body to chassis bolts

[BDA]

 

[TurboFource]

Opened my "glovebox" door for the first time and found more critter debris......

Removed luggage area and engine compartment chassis bolts. I previously undid engine compartment bracing and chassis bolts in the dash area......are there bolts in the seat area? I have pulled back the carpet and looked from underneath.....if they are there where are they

[BDA]

There is plate between the outer body shell and the interior where the outer seat belt anchor lives. They are usually in very bad shape by now and given the “crustiness” of your car, it is a very good bet that yours will be terrible. The inner seatbelt anchor screws into the backbone. You’ve probably already encountered the upper seatbelt anchor at the upper outside corner of the tubular frame behind the firewall.

Seems like your car was a critter hotel! It is interesting that your glove box had a door. The PO did that and if you restore your dash yourself, if he did a reasonable job, you are that much further along to a custom dash.

[TurboFource]

I have removed the inner seat belt bolts.....are there others in this area near seats and "firewall" ?

If not I am ready to lift the body off