TC Stopped While Running

[SENC]

Obviously it's wasn't wired that way or it wouldn't ever have run.

Your coil is 1.6 ohms.  That is actually correct IF you have the ballast resistor shown in the wiring diagram.  Otherwise fit the 3 ohm coil and leave the WY wire off.  The diagrams calls the ballast resistor a "cold start coil".  The WB wire goes from the coil to the distributor.  Your tach runs by measuring impulses on the ignition side.  There shouldn't be a wire from the coil "+" to the distributor/points.

If that is the resistor and he has it on the 3ohm coil, the other symptoms make sense too.  At "run" he's getting full 12v at the coil through WY, but not at "start" because its coming through W and the resistor.  As you said, the big issue is the distributor is wired to the wrong side of the new coil, so current is not flowing through the new coil at all - but with the 3ohm coil W needs to go straight to the terminal and not through the resistor, correct?

[jbcollier]

Diagnosis over the phone is always a difficult process.  That's why is best to go through things step by step rather than make wholesale changes.   Yes, the 3 ohm coil should have the white wire hooked up directly the "+" terminal.

[surypap3]

We had expected rain today, instead full sunshine. So we are hitting the water again. I will get on the check list and comments probably tomorrow. So, again, thank you all and I will update tomorrow. Happy 4th! BTW, tho I wanted the grandson to drive the Europa this weekend, he is getting a lot of boat driving experience!

[SENC]

We had expected rain today, instead full sunshine. So we are hitting the water again. I will get on the check list and comments probably tomorrow. So, again, thank you all and I will update tomorrow. Happy 4th! BTW, tho I wanted the grandson to drive the Europa this weekend, he is getting a lot of boat driving experience!

Even better, enjoy! 

Around here the 4th has become a time the locals stay off/out of the water - just too many overindulging, underthinking, and inexperienced boaters clogging the waterways!

Happy 4th!

[Bainford]

Is there a spec for the condenser? I have a newer old condenser but don't have the history on it.

I don't want to muddy the waters here, especially as you are closing in on a solution, but it is worth mentioning that commonly available condensers are junk, even those available in the little green Lucas box. Check here for more info http://www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_condensers.htm . I chased a nagging ignition problem for two years, replacing the condenser with a new 'Lucas' unit in the process, with no improvement. I then learned about the Distributor Doctor condensers, bought a couple, fit one, and the problem vanished.

I know this is not the initial problem you are chasing, but if fitting a new condenser, I highly recommend the Dist Dr unit.

[SENC]

Pulled an old Lucas manual for another purpose and found these simple ignition circuit drawings - thought they might be useful for the OP and/or others...

[surypap3]

Company and work kept me away. Started on jb's checklist. Last Mon I got test light to go on at + side of coil with ignition on. Started looking again today and got nothing at the +. I guess looking at ignition switch is next.

[surypap3]

Points closed, Ignition switch on ....... test light lit at + coil. Lit on negative side too. Cleaned points ... still lit on - side coil. Opened points still lit on - coil.

[jbcollier]

Excellent!  It's far easier to diagnose an actual issue than a generic "There's no spark."

First, is the coil "-" wired to the points in the distributor.  This is usually by a white wire with a black tracer (WB).

If no, then make it so.

If yes, then follow the circuit/wire until we find the "open".

Touch coil "-".  There's power?

Touch where the wire attaches to the distributor.

No power?  Break in wire between coil and distributor.

Power?  Touch where the wire attaches to the points.

No Power?  Break in wire between points and where the WB wire attaches.

Power?  Touch the moving side of the points.

No power?  The wire to the points is attached incorrectly.  It's insulated from the point arm.  Sort the insulators to make it right.

Power?  Touch the fixed side of the points.

No power?  The points are dirty, or not touching.

Power?  Touch the plate the points are attached to.

No power  Points are insulated from the plate (unlikely but it's part of the process). 

Power?  Touch the distributor body.

No power?  The distributor plate grounding wire is broken or missing.

Power?  Touch the distributor body.

Power?  Somehow the distributor body is not grounded.  Maybe gaskets used to seal a leak?

That should be it.  Somewhere in that flow you should find the issue.

Good luck and report back!

[surypap3]

Thank you. Will get on it today.

[surypap3]

Through the checklist down to points. Power not crossing points contacts. Cleaned them but still no power on the fixed side

[surypap3]

Now this just happened as I turned the ignition back on. Perhaps closer to solving the problem???

[SENC]

Yep

[surypap3]

I have a parts distributor I will steal from today.

[SENC]

That bit looks toasty.  Once you get things running, be sure to try to trace back to what happened to try to prevent recurrence or something else frying.  IIRC, you have a low resistance coil and if you don't have a ballast resistor in front of it your coil and distributor bits won't last long.