Installing Door window frames...Has anyone else done this?

[LotusJoe]

I'm in the process of reassembling my doors. The window frames don't really fit that well. I recall there was some black hard glue like material between the door fiberglass and the frame. On my car it filled the gaps between the frame and the door. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to type of material to use or know what the original material was used?

[Lou Drozdowski]

Joe, I am in the exact same process at the moment, and have a couple of tips. As you know the window trim and frame surrounds were bonded at the factory. The magic substance is butyl tape. After many years this material turns into concrete
{if you had to remove it you know what I mean}...There are a few variations to size and composition. Source out one of your local import centers and use style 1/4" shiny side style which is typically now used for sealing the weather seal to the interior of most doors before the outer trim panel is installed. It comes in a roll, do not buy the package type that comes in a box w/individual strips. Wurth or 3m is your best bet.

Now for placement, wear rubber gloves..as this stuff sticks to everything and can be messy. Take a small section and roll it into a skinny worm and apply it to the leading edges of the door gap where the top and backside of the frame will contact the door. Once installed this will "smush" somewhat around the back and top of the frame. I also used aircraft countersunk recessed machine screws in the frame instead of pop rivets for fastening. You can later come back fill the remaining gaps w/ black silicone and putty it smooth where the rear frame comes down towards the door handle. You don't need much... just apply the butyl to the top and rear, use the holes in the door where the rivets used to be as your guide.ld       

[LeftAngle]

A couple of caveats with Lou's great instructions.  I've discovered that plastic bags, the kind you get at the grocery store, are great to use with butyl.  Plastic gloves will quickly grip and tear apart.  Plastic bags aren't so fragile.  They also store the leftover stuff very neatly... Well, neater than having it all over your hands and arms.  Just turn the bags inside out when they become too messy to use and pull another over your hands.

Second. I'd steer away from silicone adhesive seals.  Once it touches anything like paint, even after cleaning it off as best as you can, you'll find that years later, it makes a mess of your finish and the area that you tried to repair.  If you have any gaps left over, it's probably better to go back with small bits of butyl and a dental type tool to pack it into the openings.  Butyl cleans up fairly well with acetone.

My 2¢

[LotusJoe]

What about using this stuff?

[cazman]

Lotus Joe - I know this thread is old, but what did you finally end up using?  How did it go?

I am in the same boat now.

[Pfreen]

What about using this stuff?

It will work, but you will have a hell of a time removing the frame in the future.

[cazman]

So, use the butyl?

Do you know how to get the frames out? Seems like just a few rivets and then the butyl holds the rest?

[Pfreen]

That's it.  I used butyl.  It leaked some so I stuffed more butyl in to seal it up.  It's hard to know the size of the gap that needs to be filled.

[Bryan Boyle]

So, use the butyl?

Do you know how to get the frames out? Seems like just a few rivets and then the butyl holds the rest?

If you make the butyl snake large enough  (between 1/8 and 1/4 of an inch...) and put it in the crease, and push the frame into it...it will sink in and catch and ooze as it needs to. 

One suggestion: fill in the pop rivet holes along the fiberglass door frame.  I usually use chopped strand filler.  Sand smooth.  Now, gently countersink the holes where the pop rivets used to live; you don't need a deep sink, but enough to accept the head of a #4 countersunk sheet metal screw (I use stainless).  Use the screw to nip up the frame in the door.  It will be fine; it's not a precision fit, but a 'best fit'. 

More comments, from 12/08 in the entry "On the Downstroke" for 12/29/2008 in my restoration journal/blog at:
http://www.lotuseuropa.us/0693r/journal/index.php?m=12&y=08 if you're interested in another view...