Re: Concentric Clutch Slave Recommendations

[rnewesprt78]

Hello all,  new here,  after NG1 conversion (spacer on throwout bearing carrier needed because of 1/2" engine to bellhousing adapter plate for Ford Duratec 2.3 L engine) - I probably need to add another quarter inch to the spacer,  but has anyone done a concentric slave modification? I saw a pic of one on the Yahoo Group and should have saved it.  Like type or model number fits etc,  mounting issues...  I have a 1003 Ford Focus LUK LSC272 that I can work with,  but why re-invent the wheel if somebody has already navigated this path!
Many Thanks,  Bob Scates    Springfield,  VA  1973 TC SP

[BDA]

The yahoo group, including all pictures, files, and posts (at least that was their intention) moved to groups.io. I think they were successful since my pictures were moved. Maybe you can find that picture there.

[surfguitar58]

  rnewesprt78
Sounds like an interesting conversion, I think we’d all like to see some pics.
Tom

[SwiftDB4]

Be careful with concentric slaves. If you use a good quality one like Tilton probably OK. DO NOT use McLeod. Several GT40 replica owners have had trouble with them. Give thought to whether the hassle of having to remove the trans for repairs is worth a concentric slave.

[BDA]

I considered using a concentric but decided not to, partly because of the complexity but for a street car, I think it makes less sense than on a race car. If a seal should start to leak, you have to pull the tranny to fix it. It's not a huge deal on a stock Europa to pull the tranny so it's not THAT bad (my Mercedes C230 has a concentric clutch which will require pulling the tranny to get to but Mercedes has to pay their "technicians" some how), but I've seen some hydraulic clutch mods that utilize the existing clutch arm that I think make more sense and would be much easier to service. Just my 2¢.

But then, I don't think the cable operated clutch is a bad thing. I did replace the stock cable with a Cablecraft control cable which should be more durable.

[rnewesprt78]

Thanks for all the replies - I was able to add 1/4" to the throwout bearing carrier to get it closer to the pressure plate fingers,  I offered up the bellhousing to the back of the engine to see how I was doing - much improved,  there is now only about 1/8" slop movement at the end of the clutch arm before the bearing was contacting the pressure plate ,  much improved,  before it was like 5/8" or 3/4".  I believe the clutch fork contacting the bottom of the carrier was running out of effective throw before being able to disengage the clutch.  I have the bellhousing sealed and on the gearbox,  ready to put back in tomorrow )about 3 hours including suspension.  I will post some pics when I get a camera going with smaller pixel count.  On Yahoo I was  rnewscates,  plenty of pics there.  Thanks,  Bob