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Offline Grumblebuns

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Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« on: Saturday,April 04, 2020, 05:02:51 PM »
Preface:
With all California universities and colleges ordered  shut down due to the Covid-19 crisis, my engine rebuilding class was interrupted mid semester. The fate of resuming my engine rebuilding class remains up in the air since all schools will be shut down for  the foreseeable future. I doubt that I will be able to reassemble my engine in the class setting but will have to do it on my own. Not wanting to waste what I  learned in the first half, I'm posting my experience on disassembling the engine during the first half of the semester. Engine reassembly will have to wait untill the school administration decides when classes will resume, if it ever does. Anyway, this starts with the first installment of the first half of the semester. All comments, corrections and criticisms are welcomed.

         Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class

This is a sub-story to the main return from the dead saga of my 74 TCS 3923R. The primary goal of writing this journal is to give a technical description of rebuilding a twink engine from the perspective of a novice engine builder with average mechanical skills. In terms of my personal mechanical experience with the twin cam motors, I’ve adjusted valve clearances, replaced a couple of water pumps and had one attempted bottom end rebuild which could only be described as a massive failure. Taking this class, I hope to do it right this time documenting my progress detailing all of my successes and screw ups in the process. A lot of time will be spent on the minor details that may be obvious to the professionals but were not clear to me at the time

I’m pretty fortunate to have two Community Colleges both offering a decent auto technology curriculum within 35 miles from me. For the coming Spring semester, I enrolled in an Engine Rebuilding class which happens to coincide with my long delayed plans to put 3923R back on the road. With the help of a fellow Europa owner, I managed to get the engine/tranny pulled out of 3923R in time for the start of the first week of class, Pics 1&2.

Week 1

Day 1- The instructor set the requirement that everyone had to work with a lab partner. I was fortunate to have a recently retired mechanical engineer and budding car guy in my class. Previously taking an Engine Machining class last Fall, I knew him and his work habits working with and getting to know him; we should be compatible partners. Class is two days a week, Mondays and Wednesdays, 08am-11am. Lecture is one hour with the remaining two hours for lab/engine work. Those students who can not bring in their own engines will work on school provided engines.The text used for the class is “AUTOMOTIVE ENGINES Diagnosis, Repair, and Rebuilding”  by Tim Gilles, 7th edition. This will be my reference for general engine procedures. My guide in the twink engine rebuild is the Miles Wilkins book “Lotus Twin-Cam Engine” and the workshop manual.

Day 2- Loaded the twink engine into the back of my Yukon and delivered it to class.The instructor apparently does not like to use universal style engine stands to support engines; instead he prefers to use engine disassembly tables.His thinking is that the weight of the engine hanging off of one end will cause distortion of the block especially for long inline 6 engines blocks, thus his use of tables, Pics 3&4.

With my engine muscled onto the engine disassembly table, we begin with the engine disassembly process. To ensure stability, the first thing we did was to remove the casters from the engine cradle. In order to reduce the overall weight of the engine, I had previously removed most of the ancillaries at home prior to loading the twink engine into the back of my Yukon. With the short time remaining in the lab period, the only item we have time to remove is the valve cover and examine the camshaft and tappet assembly.  I let my lab partner look over the engine, and ask questions.  During Week 2, the plan is to remove the head and start the bottom end disassembly. I lent my partner a copy of Miles Wilkins book for him to review prior to Week 2.
 
Week 2

Day 3- The twink teardown starts. In order to ensure that parts are not lost as they are removed, cam/ crankshaft caps and bearings are placed in specific trays and labeled with photos taken as to numbers and orientation as they are removed. The first problem reared its ugly head when we tried to rotate the engine with the crank pulley bolt; the engine would not rotate.There is nothing we can do until the head is removed. We continued with the engine disassembly and the removal of the head per the Wilkins book. With the camshaft caps removed, we got the second “oh crap” moment. We noticed scoring on some of the exhaust camshaft journals and bearing shells. The scoring is deep enough to catch a fingernail running a nail across the journal. Grinding the journals is not an option since there are no cam bearings available for undersized cam journals. Plan of attack will have to wait till we revisit the head later in the semester. We continued on with the head removal with no further problems. With the head removed, we discovered the reason for the seized engine There was a line of rust on the bore about ½”  high above piston #2. Water/antifreeze must have leaked into the cylinder during storage and caused the rings to stick to the cylinder bore. Further examination showed a thick crust of carbon on the tops of all the pistons. We sprayed PB Blaster in the rusted cylinder hoping it would free up the rings over the next couple of days. End of Day 3..

Day 4- Not much time for hands on engine work. Classroom lecture took almost two hour which left us less than an hour left to work on the engines in the lab. Good news was that the engine freed up with minimal force on the breaker bar and I couldn’t feel any scoring in that bore from the rusted rings. Although highly unlikely, we’ll magnaflux the bores to see if there is a crack in the cylinder bore which caused the rings to rust to the bore. Final task was to remove the Gilmer water pump pulley off the crankshaft using a small clamshell bearing puller. End of Day 4.

Offline BDA

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #1 on: Saturday,April 04, 2020, 06:47:58 PM »
This will be a great thread, Grumblebuns! Even though I don't have a TC motor, I'll be watching this.

I haven't heard of magnafluxing (which I understand is a magnetic particle test) a cylinder bore which means nothing and could be the best method of testing for a crack, but I wonder if pressure testing the block or die penetrant testing might be easier and cheaper. (I just did a search for "die penetrant testing" and I was directed to magnaflux.com! So Grumblebuns and I may be talking about the same thing!)

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #2 on: Sunday,April 05, 2020, 06:47:50 AM »
Yeah, it's a shame that the Covid-19 outbreak cut the semester short. Your BDA motor is based on the Kent engine which is the same as used in the TC motor so the bottom end work should be applicable to you. We did manage to magnaflux the block which will be detailed in week 3 or 4 and it showed no cracks. Magnaflux involves running a hand held electromagnet over a steel or cast iron surface sprinkled with fine steel filings/powder. The magnetic field generated by the electromagnet will cause the filings to be attracted to the cracked area forming a visible line highlighting the cracked area. I should've taken a photo of the process. The instructor demonstrated the technique on a cracked cast iron head and it showed the crack in the combustion area in vivid detail.



Offline BDA

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #3 on: Sunday,April 05, 2020, 07:23:56 AM »
It sounds like that class was pretty good to get experience with doing magnaflux testing. I had heard of magnaflux testing for parts like rods and cranks but never blocks that I remember. I didn't realize it was so flexible and simple and apparently inexpensive. Good to know!

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #4 on: Sunday,April 05, 2020, 07:35:18 AM »
« Last Edit: Sunday,April 05, 2020, 07:41:19 AM by Grumblebuns »

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #5 on: Saturday,April 25, 2020, 04:29:01 PM »
Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class


At the end of week 4 the engine disassembly is mostly complete.Disassembled parts were put aside for later examination and and measuring.

Week 3
Day 5- The first part of the morning was spent working on removing the oil pan.Working carefully with putty scrapers, the oil pan came off rather easily after about 15 minutes of  use of the scraper between the pan and block. With the pan off, we removed the retaining bolts and tapped the front timing chest cover off along with the water pump and the backing plate. We flip the block over to gain better access to the crankshaft bearing caps. In preparation for removing the oil pickup and return pipes next week, we attempt to remove the oil pump strainer basket. My original intent was to minimize the damage to the tube by removing the strainer and inserting a drill bit slightly smaller in diameter to the tube and remove it with vise grips. Unfortunately, in the process, we manage to break off two of the tabs holding the strainer to the strainer base plate. We stopped at this point to reassess our strategy on removing the tubes. This ended Day 5. 

Day 6- With just the crankshaft, pistons and jackshaft to remove, we moved the block assembly to a universal engine stand I brought from home to continue the teardown. After noting and documenting the orientation of the both connecting rod and main crankshaft bearing caps we begin removing the connecting rod caps and pushing the pistons out of the bores. All pistons came out without issue and we set aside the bearings and caps with the associated con rod. We noticed that the connecting rods have a “FRONT” cast into the front of the rod to denote orientation for reassembly. We next start loosening and removing the crankshaft bearing caps and set the caps and thrust washers aside. The crankshaft is lifted out and set aside. With time running short, we decided to leave the jackshaft and oil pickup/return tubes for another day.
Pic 1 shows oil pan removed

Week 4

Day 7- Today being Presidents day, no class was held so I decided to order replacement oil pickup and return tubes. So, I read ahead in the Miles Wilkens book on removing the oil pickup/return tubes and jackshaft .According to the book, the two tubes are to be removed, discarded and new tubes installed. A phone call to Ken at Dave Bean established that new oil pickup tubes are NLA. My initial intention was to reuse the oil pickup tube and have a new tube as backup in case we damaged the original tube during removal. I go ahead and order the used oil pickup tube..


Day 8- We measure the height of both tubes above the bottom flange of the block for reference during reassembly and move the block outside in order to use a MAP gas torch to heat up the block around the oil tubes. The original plan was to stick a drill bit slightly smaller in diameter than the tubes in the tubes with the strainer removed to minimize the crushing of the tubes while using two vice grips 180 degrees apart to wiggle out the tubes after heating the metal around the tubes with the torch. Not wanting to break off the remaining hold down strainer tab we decide to remove the tubes without using a drill bit to minimize crushing the tube. Unfortunately the MAP gas gave out after only a minute of heating so we were stuck with trying to remove the tubes cold. With a little bit of wiggling, both tubes came out and surprisingly with minimal tooth marks on the tubes.We moved the engine back inside and started removing the last major component in the block, the jackshaft. We remove the two hex bolts, one Allen bolt securing the retaining plate and gently pull out the jackshaft. The block is almost bare with only the three core plugs and four oil gallery plugs left to remove.The instructor decides to use our engine block as a demonstration opportunity in how to remove core plugs to the class.The trick is to hammer one side of the core plug with a flat punch and pivot the plug so the opposite side can be grabbed with a vice grip and pulled out. The two smaller plugs on the side were removed as demonstrated. The third larger plug was in the back of the block and obstructed by the engine stand holder so it was left for us to remove. After removing the stand holder our attempt at punching out the last plug only forced the entire plug up against the back wall of #4 cylinder. There was only about ¼” clearance between the cylinder wall and the back of the rear core plug. We decided to hold off further attempts until next week. Day 8 ended by removing the oil gallery plugs.

Pic 2 Mostly bare block on Harbor Freight engine stand. Engine cradle will be removed later . Core plugs and oil gallery plugs have yet to be removed
Pic 3 Two of three smaller core plugs. The third larger core plug is on the rear of the block up against #4 cylinder
Pic 4 Class instructor demonstrating the proper method of removing core plugs. Use a medium flat punch to strike the inside edge of the plug with a heavy hammer. Ideally  the plug should pivot around on its axis with one half of the plug sticking out of the hole
Pic 5 Unfortunately the plug failed to cooperate and it dropped into the cooling jacket. Retrieve it using a pair of vise grips or channel lock pliers
Pic 6 My lab partner attempting to punch out the second plug.He was more successful in his attempt. The plug pivoted just enough to get a pair of vice grips to wiggle the plug free
Pic 7 Rear core plug removed. We had a difficult time removing this plug. The plug is almost up against #4 cylinder wall, about ¼” clearance when inserted. In trying to punch out one side, we only succeeded in forcing the entire plug up against the cylinder with the edge of the plug about half way into the bore.We called the instructor to help us out. He used a flat punch  to peen one edge away from the bore edge enough to pull the plug out enough to grab it with channel locks and wiggle it out. The danger was not to put any undue force onto the cylinder wall and cause possible damage.


Offline BDA

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #6 on: Saturday,April 25, 2020, 07:27:32 PM »
Good stuff, Grumblebuns! I know you're doing a full rebuild but I got to wondering how many miles were on your motor and what your bearings and cylinder bores look like.

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #7 on: Sunday,April 26, 2020, 05:47:59 AM »
BDA, my TCS only has a tick over 67k miles on it. Preliminary visual of the bores show no scoring but crosshatch marks are very faint and there may be a ridge at the top of the cylinder though the pistons came out with no issues. Bore measurements shows excessive piston to cylinder clearance; appears that an over bore will be required. This is troubling for an engine with fairly low miles on it. Crankshaft journals have some very minor scratches which may come out with just polishing . Will take a closer look when the crank is examined more closely.

Weeks 5&6 begins the examination an measurement portion of the class. I'll have the actual measurements of the components then.
 

Offline BDA

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #8 on: Sunday,April 26, 2020, 07:20:16 AM »
67k miles on a motor certainly isn't much for one that seems as worn as that is. I would guess that the PO wasn't as rigorous with maintenance as he should have been.

I'm looking forward to your next installment!

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #9 on: Sunday,April 26, 2020, 01:58:14 PM »
I'm afraid that the wear was not the fully fault of the PO but was probably caused by yours truly. Thanks for trying to deflect the blame. Back then I was pretty good at changing oil every 3k miles so I doubt oil maintenance was the cause. Some of you may remember the Weiand Ram Flow air filters available back in the late 70s and early 80s. Early in ownership I swapped the stock air filter system over to a Weiand foam style air filter. I'm surmising that the foam deteriorated over the years allowing some unfiltered air to get into the combustion chamber. Learned my lesson. I'm still pondering what type of air filtration system I'll be using when the engine gets reinstalled. There will definitely be an air box with a reputable filter routed via a cold air intake.




     

Offline GavinT

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #10 on: Sunday,April 26, 2020, 11:45:10 PM »
Some of you may remember the Weiand Ram Flow air filters available back in the late 70s and early 80s. Early in ownership I swapped the stock air filter system over to a Weiand foam style air filter.

Can I join your club, Grumbles?

Back in the 70's I replaced the stock air filter for a 'Ramflo' foam one on my Ford Capri GT.
I thought the induction noise sounded cool!
It wasn't long before that caused the rings to wear badly and I had an engine rebuild on my hands.

The local shop immediately blamed the dry foam filter.
After the rebuild, it started blowing smoke almost immediately so I returned to the shop to complain. Apparently, the shop had 'expanded' the pistons - fairly common practice back then, if I recall. They took the engine apart a second time and found one piston with collapsed lands between the top two rings. All of the compression rings were broken into small segments so presumably they weren't gapped.

In later years I've used a Uniflow oiled filter and thought it was pretty good but, like you, I'll be adapting an oversized paper filter from a more common vehicle.

Apparently the 'Ramflo' filters are still sold.

Offline cwtech

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #11 on: Monday,April 27, 2020, 06:00:10 AM »
Grumblebuns:

While the bores may indeed be worn, care must be exercised in judging "excess" clearance.

Compare the measurement at the bottom of the bore (where there is no piston ring travel) to the upper portion where the rings travel.

How much are the ring end-gaps open when placed in the bores?

Some pistons are cam ground ( I don't remember if this applies to TC's).  ....Piston diameter will vary depending on where measurements are taken, and will affect bore-piston clearance.

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #12 on: Monday,April 27, 2020, 06:49:07 AM »
Some of you may remember the Weiand Ram Flow air filters available back in the late 70s and early 80s. Early in ownership I swapped the stock air filter system over to a Weiand foam style air filter.

Can I join your club, Grumbles?

Back in the 70's I replaced the stock air filter for a 'Ramflo' foam one on my Ford Capri GT.
I thought the induction noise sounded cool!
It wasn't long before that caused the rings to wear badly and I had an engine rebuild on my hands.

The local shop immediately blamed the dry foam filter.
After the rebuild, it started blowing smoke almost immediately so I returned to the shop to complain. Apparently, the shop had 'expanded' the pistons - fairly common practice back then, if I recall. They took the engine apart a second time and found one piston with collapsed lands between the top two rings. All of the compression rings were broken into small segments so presumably they weren't gapped.

In later years I've used a Uniflow oiled filter and thought it was pretty good but, like you, I'll be adapting an oversized paper filter from a more common vehicle.

Apparently the 'Ramflo' filters are still sold.


Ah yes, those would be the culprits. I hope they've improved the quality of the foam element over the years if they are still selling them.



Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #13 on: Monday,April 27, 2020, 07:07:43 AM »
Grumblebuns:

While the bores may indeed be worn, care must be exercised in judging "excess" clearance.

Compare the measurement at the bottom of the bore (where there is no piston ring travel) to the upper portion where the rings travel.

How much are the ring end-gaps open when placed in the bores?

Some pistons are cam ground ( I don't remember if this applies to TC's).  ....Piston diameter will vary depending on where measurements are taken, and will affect bore-piston clearance.

I plan on posting how the cylinder bores and pistons were measured with my Weeks 5 & 6 write up this weekend. I would be interested in your evaluation of my methodology.

Briefly, for the cylinder bores, I used a Sunnen dial bore gauge to measure the bore for taper and out of roundness. Four points were measured at the bottom of the bore at end of piston travel and the top of the bore just under the ring ridge, 90 degrees apart. The pistons were measured at the widest part at the skirt area below the wrist pins. Being novices at this, I believe we were accurate in our measurements after getting several repeated readings.

It would have been nice to get ring end gap readings in the bores but in the classroom setting with only 90 minutes per day to work on the engine, time was too short to get to it. I will have all of the measurements in my Week 5 & 6 posting. I would appreciate your comments.

 

Offline Grumblebuns

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Re: Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class
« Reply #14 on: Saturday,May 02, 2020, 07:01:28 PM »
                                                                           Chronicles of a Community College Engine Rebuilding Class

Week 5           

Day 9- We scratched our heads trying to figure out the best course of action in getting the last core plug out of the block. Our instructor came over and recommended using a small diameter flat punch and try to carefully peen over the edge of the core plug at the 9 or 3 o’clock position taking care not to gouge the hole in the block.It took several taps but the plug eventually pivoted over enough to grip and remove with a pair of channel lock pliers. One thing we noted after the removal of the core plugs was the amount of rust and sediment sludge inside the water jacket. We decided to clean the block in the schools parts washer to remove as much of the built up oil and dirt deposit covering the 40 year old engine. The cleaned  block is almost bare except for the jackshaft bearings for which the instructor plans on using our block to demonstrate removing the camshaft bearings. With the engine disassembly pretty much completed, we now begin the measuring and inspection phase of the rebuild. End of day 9.

Day 10- The day started with the instructor using our engine block to demonstrate the general technique of removing the camshaft/jackshaft bearings from the block. The jackshaft runs on three bearings inside the block, the original camshaft for the OHV Kent engine. Not having the special camshaft bearing removal/installation tool specified in the workshop manual, the instructor demonstrates the procedure using the schools universal cam bearing removal/installation tool. The three bearings popped out easily and were marked and put aside. Bearing installation will be detailed later during engine reassembly. There are many YouTube videos on cam bearing removal if anyone is interested in the procedure. The photos show the cam bearing removal/installation tools used by the instructor. The jackshaft bearings are interference fit full round bearings. For the first time  hobbyist it would probably be best to have a machine shop remove/reinstall the cam bearings. Installation is especially critical in getting the oil holes in the block aligned precisely with the corresponding holes in bearing shells. If your first attempt gets the orientation wrong, you risk damaging the relatively thin bearing shells by attempted removal and reinstallation.
The block can now be considered stripped, ready for measuring and cleaning. The first measurement was to check the roundness of each of the crankshaft bearing housings. After re-installing and torquing the main crankshaft bearing caps to 55 lb ft, the instructor demonstrated the technique using a dial bore gauge and measuring two axis about 90 degrees apart for each bearing housing. All bearing bores had less than 0.005” variance. Since the manual has no specific value for crankshaft bearing housing diameter we used the general  go/no go criteria of 0.005” for the specification. Because of the relatively small diameter of the main crank bores, getting consistent reading was difficult. After many attempts we were successful. Actual values were all between 0.002” and 0.003”
Next the instructor demonstrated how to check the straightness of the crankshaft line  bore alignment of the five bearing housings using a precision straight edge/bar and a feeler gauge to check for any gaps between the bar and the bearing bore. The general rule of thumb is that a feeler gauge of 0.0015” should not fit between the bar and the bearing housing. Unfortunately the smallest gauge that was in the tool box was 0.0020” which passed the criterion but we’ll have to recheck the straightness with the proper size feeler gauge. The roundness and straightness of crank bearing bores should be expected since this is a low mileage street engine that did not suffer any major overheating or catastrophic crankshaft damage.
The last measurement on the block is to check the cylinder bore for taper and roundness and a visual to determine course of action on the piston and rings.and ultimately cylinder bore size.The school has a Sunnen bore gauge and measuring fixture to obtain very accurate bore size to the nearest 0.0005”.To get accurate bore measurements, the block is placed in the schools honing machine and the cylinders are cleaned using a flex stone attached to an electric drill with coolant jets from the honing machine helping to clean the bores. With an acceptably clean bore surface, we took the initial measurements. Each cylinder was measured at four points to determine taper and out of round.
A1 - along the wrist pin axis at bottom of the cylinder at BDC, where there is little to no  wear.
A2 -  along the wrist pin axis at TDC, maximum travel of rings just below the ridgeline, area of most wear.
B1 - 90 degrees to the wrist pin axis, at BDC where there is little to no wear.
B2 - 90 degrees the wrist pin axis, at TDC maximum travel of rings just below the ridgeline, area of most wear..

The difference between A1 and A2 or B1 and B2 will show the amount of taper between the bottom of the bore where there is no wear and the top of bore where there is maximum cylinder wear.
 
The difference between A1 and B1 (bottom of bore) or between A2 and B2 (top of bore) will show out of round. With A1 and B1 being below the travel of the rings, little to no wear should be expected.

The following are the measurements taken of my cylinder bores:
Note that the stock cylinder bore size is 3.250”
Cylinder # -------------------- A1-------------------  A2------------------- B1------------------- B2
----------------------------------BDC------------------TDC------------------BDC-----------------TDC

#1                                  3.2515”                 3.2545”                3.2505”                3.2540”
#2                                  3.2510”                 3.2560”                3.2515”                3.2550”
#3                                  3.2515”                 3.2555”                3.2515”                3.2555”
#4                                  3.2515”                 3.2550”                3.2505”                3.2535”

Amount of taper between TDC and BDC (difference between A1 and A2 and difference between B1 and B2). In both the A and B axes, the top of the bore is wider than the bottom.

Cylinder #1: A2 - A1 = 0.0030”/B2 - B1 = 0.0035”
Cylinder #2: A2 - A1 = 0.0050”/B2 - B1 = 0.0035”
Cylinder #3: A2 - A1 = 0.0040”/B2 - B1 = 0.0040”
Cylinder #4: A2 - A1 = 0.0035”/B2 - B1 = 0.0030”

Amount of out of round between TDC and BDC (difference between A1 and B1 and difference between A2 and B2):

Cylinder #1: A1 - B1 =  0.0010”/A2 - B2 = 0.0005”
Cylinder #2: A1 - B1 =  0.0005”/A2 - B2 = 0.0010”
Cylinder #3: A1 - B1 =  0.0000”/A2 - B2 = 0.0000”
Cylinder #4: A1 - B1 =  0.0010”/A2 - B2 = 0.0015”

Current general rule of thumb is 0.001” for max taper and between 0.002”-0.003” for out of round. The readings show the somewhat unexpected taper and wear for a vintage twin cam engine with “only” 65k miles although out of round readings appear to be within the allowable band. The Lotus workshop manual specifies a clearance between cylinder and piston to be 0.0030”- 0.0036” (with type C piston). We will measure the piston diameters in the next couple of weeks. End of day 10.

Pic 1
 My partner is shown using the universal cam bearing removal/installation tool. The main tool is the short section consisting of a driver, expandable mandrel, thick “o” rings/rubber bands, and select washers that are the same diameter of the bearing.The short driver is used for the outside bearings.
Pic 2
Picture shows the long extension for the driver along with the box of different size extra mandrels.The long extension is used in conjunction with the short driver for the inside bearing.
Pic 3
Instructor demonstrating the use of a dial bore gauge in determining roundness of the crankshaft journal bores. There was some difficulty getting consistent readings due to the small size of the bearing bore relative to the gauge head.
Pic 4
A precision straight bar laid across the main bearing to check for bore straightness.
Pic 5
A feeler gauge is inserted under the bar at each bearing
Pic 6
The piston represents the cylinder bore illustrating the points of measurements of the cylinder bore. Black arrow is in the direction of the wrist pin and crankshaft, the “A” axis. The yellow arrow points in the direction of the “B” axis 90 degrees from the “A” axis.

« Last Edit: Monday,May 04, 2020, 03:19:00 PM by Grumblebuns »