I've just finished a four day battle with the right front suspension of my car. I'm in the process of returning my Federal S2's stance to pre-US attempts to keep me safe. The left side parts came off with no problem. After being cleaned, repaired and refinished, they also went back with new Spax adjustable shocks and 10" chrome springs lickety-split. Then came the right side. The lower A arms came off with no problems and the forward upper arm was a simple matter as well. The upper rear arm and old shock were another matter entirely.
The metal inner bearing sleeves had separated from the rubber, possibly from the PO having improperly torquing them while the car was still on jacks. The steel inner sleeves were solidly adhered to the bolt shaft and no amount of finesse or force was able to free them. Corrosion is a weak force, but because these sleeves were hidden behind a layer of rubber, another set of steel sleeves and the hardened metal of the shock and A arm themselves, it was a bit difficult to even get to the inner sleeves.
By strong-arming the parts over, I was able to expose the ends of the inner sleeves enough to get a bite on them with a gound down set of vice grips, but it was still not enough.
Then, I discovered, by taking the radiator out and removing the bug eye lights, the line between the light opening and the bolt was almost straight-on.
With all of my 1/2" extensions employed, I was able to extend the bolt out in front of my car by about 18", giving me plenty of room to attach an air drill and slam the bolt with a sledge. I figured this is the reason for Lotus locating those awfull lights where they did
Still, even with a heavy sledge, I was unable to move the bolt. Not even a fraction of an inch.
That was day two.
By day three, I was offering free beer to anyone who could slam the contraption hard enough to break the sleeves free. Plenty of takers... No winners.
Now this was puzzling to me, as corrosion is a weak force. Anything that can be defeated by an application of penetrating oil is not going to stand up to a group of ex Marines with beer and a sledge hammer.
As an engineer, I also know there's a mechanical, finite reason for any problem, but I was at a loss trying to figure this one out. Even if the PO had put the parts on with Loctite, it wouldn't have stood up to the forces we applied (the frame is actually bent back a bit... An easy fix, but evidence of the forces we applied).
Day four, I attacked the shock and outer sleeve with an air grinder, getting them off in about 2 hours. I then ground the inner sleeve to the point where the metal first showed signs of cracking. A cold chisel managed to break it free without touching the bolt shaft beneath.
Next came the rear arm. I couldn't grind through that, so I used the bug-eye extension shaft to push and spin the rubber bushing out of the arm, which fell free onto the shaft. The bolt slid out without any more trouble.
After inspecting the area, I noticed butyl rubber, still extremely sticky on the wheel housing behind the areas of the rear arm and shock. I'm now betting the PO had sprayed butyl on these parts to eliminate some issue he'd been having with them.
Butyl would have held the parts with a ferocious grip, as it has tremendous holding power and phenomenal elasticity. No amount of twisting or pounding could break this bond.
Unfortunately, the poor shock became the unwitting culprit. After a quick trial, it was properly hung from the end of the jack handle.
Attached are photos of the straight-through shaft and the hanging for your enjoyment.
There's an additional photo of a Lambo Mirua. Notice the headlamps... Now, look at the photo of the headlamp on the bodywork where I laid it after removing it to get the radiator out. The question I have for everyone is: If you can imagine the Mirua's light where I have mine sitting... Should I do it?
