TC oil level

[Fotog]

No, the filter is a normal one.  Fram PH3600.  4.9 in. long.

I wasn't sure offhand what "spin on conversion" meant, but I know there's no adapter or anything there. It's just a normal oil filter connection.  I understand now.

Vince

[jbcollier]

Good.

Drain the oil until it registers correctly on the dipstick.  How much "extra" oil is there?

I think probably the dipstick tube was knocked in further, or not reinstalled correctly during the rebuild.  I would simply remark the dipstick.

[Fotog]

Ok.  I'll do that in the next day and report back..  I re-checked, and it's 5/8 above the FULL mark.

I drove it for 10 minutes after filling it and the pressure was about 40 PSI, which is at the high end of the range specified.  If it's too full and frothing, would I expect the pressure to go up?

Thanks for your counsel.
-V

[jbcollier]

I wish!  The pressure goes down.

Oil levels are spec-ed to be well clear of the crank.  There is usually a margin of error worked in because many people add a full litre/quart/what-have-you when only the half is required.  If the oil level is actually too high, the crank will "whip" the oil into a shiny air/oil emulsion.  This mix doesn't pump nor lubricate very well.

Generally manufacturers are carefully to post alarming notices if the oil level is absolutely critical.  My diesel Smart has various "do not overfill" notices in bright red.  My Disco does not and has been a 1/2 litre over on occasion with no ill effects.

If you went for a brisk drive and the oil looked clear on the dipstick, I think it's just fine.

[Fotog]

All good info.  Thank you, JB.  In some brief googling about the topic at hand, it was written somewhere that the emulsion was 'thick', which led me to think that the pressure might rise.  But logically, I think that's probably not a good characterization of the result.  It will maybe be less thin, but also lower density.  I don't think pressures should go up.

Anyway, I'll check it out.  See how much it is over-filled according to the dipstick, which is probably not reading correctly.  My first level-check was after my drive, and it looked clear on the dipstick, so that's good, but truthfully, it wasn't so brisk.
-V

[Fotog]

I'm finally responding here with what I found out.  I removed enough oil such that it reads "full" on the dipstick, and found that I had to remove 28 oz.  That's quite a bit!  I thought all was ok as, realistically, why shouldn't it take the 9 pints specified?.... and after driving it the oil still looked clear (no frothing) on the dipstick.

The car has been driven very little since I first started it (after 30 years) 6 or so months ago.  About 15 mi. total.  But I noticed that I'm getting a bit of oil leakage from the fuel pump now that I didn't have before the oil change.  I was thinking it was from a leak at the flange, but maybe there's a weep hole there.  I'll have to go back and look.

Any further thoughts or suggestions about this?

Thanks,   Vince

[SENC]

Is the dipstick tube inserted correctly (if too deep or even missing, you'd register high)?  Attached is a page from an Elan manual - it may not be specifically useful if the sump on the Europa is different than the Elan, but the point is that the tube can be mis-inserted on rebuild and cause mis-reading.

[Certified Lotus]

I’ve owned three Lotus Elan’s and one Lotus Europa, all with Ford twin cam Weber head engines and stock oil pans. All of them had small variances on the dip stick of what “full” was.  I always put the factory spec amount of oil in the engine (filling the filter first) then running the engine for a few minutes. Shut engine off and come back 30 minutes later and note level on the dipstick identifying what the full line is.  The only real variable is a short or long oil filter, but that is easily accounted for.

[jbcollier]

Usually mechanical fuel pumps have a weep hole.  If oil is coming out then first check the breather pipes and make sure they are clear.

Time for some brutally honesty.  It is not unusual for Lotus TC engines to leak oil.  I'm not saying you can't build a leak free engine, just that Lotus seems to have gone out of their way to make it very difficult to do.  Aside of all the extra joints due to a TC head being fitted to a pushrod engine, the engine is also only marginally vented.  It doesn't take much piston wear to make more blow-by that the breather system can handle.  Once the crankcase starts pressurizing, they leak from seemingly everywhere.

Any way, all that to say check the breather is clear.  Lift the oil filter cap off while it's running.  Place your hand on the opening and rev the engine.  Feel any pressure?

[brucelotus26r]

I think your dip stick tube may be worn and letting it go lower? In Brian Buckland Lotus Elan book he recommends replacing the tube at every rebuild. With my Lotus I add an extra Quart of oil for a track day or  across to stop the oil drop in hard right turns and never hard a problem.

[Fotog]

Thanks guys for all your thoughts and suggestions.  I can tell you that the tube protrudes above the block by 2.85 in.  If it were to protrude enough to show full with my 9 pints, it would have to be 3.50 in. long.  I don't think it's worn, but may be inserted too far.  The top of it is about an inch below the location of my brake light pressure switch, for what that's worth.
The info from the Elan engine assembly instructions was interesting, but I don't find similar detail in the Europa manual. 
I will check to make sure that the crankcase breather is open, but I haven't done so yet.
Things are not real pretty in that area. See the picture.

[jbcollier]

That's actually pretty good.

[Fotog]

Oh, great!😊
Glad to know that. 

[Fotog]

Sorry to keep coming back to this, but I realize that I'm not quite satisfied that things are ok.  So two things:


1)  John: I didn't report back, but I don't sense any excessive crankcase pressure when I open the oil filler.  The breather consists of a hose with a filter on the end about 2.5 in. in diameter.  Filter seems clear enough, but I washed it in hot water and detergent.  With it off or on, things seem quite clear at the end of that hose.  When I put my hand over the open oil filler and revved the engine, I didn't get significant extra pressure.
Also, there is no weep hole at the fuel pump.  I got a new spacer (like a 1/4 in. thick gasket, req'd for a twin-cam pump mounting) that I'll install.  The old one was less than perfect when I re-installed the pump after rebuilding, so even though I didn't expect it to leak, It's not out of the question.

2) Could some nice TC owner or two please give me a measure of the length of their dipstick tube above the block.   It would give me a lot of comfort to hear what others see on their similar cars that are thought to be correct.  I would appreciate it.

I put 20w50 in the car and until it warms up I'm seeing about 60 psi oil pressure.  That seems quite high, but I don't know if that's a problem.  I don't remember what I saw under similar conditions (cold) before I changed the oil, and I don't know what grade was in it.  I think warm it was showing about 30-40 psi.  I was not concerned.  Now I'm seeing in the 40+ range warm.  I've had some leaking at the camshaft seal adjacent to the alternator drive pulley all along.  It seems to be worse now in that vicinity, and I'm wondering if maybe it's coming from the head there.  Maybe it's just paranoia.  I'll tell ya, I'm looking much more critically at everything including the gauge now.

I will re-torque the head bolts.

Vince

[jbcollier]

Breather sounds good to me.  Hopefully the new spacer will do the trick.  Clean everything meticulously, wipe all the surfaces with thinner or isopropyl alcohol, apply a light smear of oil-proof silicone sealer, put it all back together and let it sit for a few hours to set up.