Adjustable lower links

[Sherman Kaplan]

I'm in the market for a pair of adjustable lower links for my Twin Cam Special.   One of the major suppliers has a set that is made from steel and has one fixed end and one adjustable end.   Another supplier has a set made from aluminum and is adjustable at both ends.   The steel one uses a rubber/steel bush at the non adjustable end and the on the adjustable end it has a polyurethane bush.   The aluminum link uses heim joints at each end.   Has anyone had any experience with either type of link?   Any recommendations?

Thanks,
Sherman

[BDA]

Between the two, I would use the aluminum set with the rod ends at both ends. You will get infinite adjustability, it won't need to be disassembled to adjust it, and it will probably be a bit easier to assemble.

You didn't mention who was selling what. I would have thought a double rod end link in steel would be readily available. You could also make you know someone who can weld (presumably you don't weld or you wouldn't ask this in the first place). The threaded ends in right and left handed threads are available at lots of places like Summit Racing and even Amazon. You will have to know the ID of your tube so if you use the tube from original lower links, you'll have to cut one of the ends off one.

[BobW]

I've been using the ones from rdent for a few years and recommend them for their simplicity and functionality. I've not had any issues with the rod ends but I might worry if I spent more time on dirt roads.

[BDA]

Rubber rod end covers are available if you're concerned. I was a bit alarmed when the rod ends on my rear suspension lost their preload resistance so I bought some. I have been told that that is not a sign of wear. For whatever reason, I had never noticed whether the rod ends remained tight or not on my race car when I raced back in the day.

[jbcollier]

I'm using the RD alloy adjustable links with rod-ends.  No issues.

[Sherman Kaplan]

The aluminum links are from RD.  The steel ones are from Banks.  I was leaning towards the aluminum ones as they would be adjustable on the car.  As the heim joints look thinner than the original steel and bushing arrangement are there any installation issues I should be aware of i.e. Are any spacers necessary

BDA,  I can weld, but I'm still learning and I would not trust myself on a suspension piece.  I did build an engine test stand, which worked well in test running the engine.  My welds were not pretty,  but they didn't fail.

I've seen the rubber covers and will probably get a set.

Thanks
Sherman

[BDA]

JB's comment cemented my opinion to get the aluminum ones.

[jbcollier]

The RD links come with the spacers you'll need.

[Sherman Kaplan]

Thanks, I'll be contacting RD to place an order

Sherman

[Grumblebuns]

If I remember correctly, RD's spacers were a bunch of washers to fill the gap; functional but a bit on the ugly side. You can make your own spacers using stock hardened aluminum or steel round stock rods. Helps to have use of a mini lathe.   

[jbcollier]

My RD links cam with alloy spacers, not a bunch of washers.

[TCS4605R]

Attached is a PDF of a rear link that I made for my 74TCS - if you have a lathe, it is easy to make.  A machine shop could also make one.

Tom
74 TCS - 4605R

[TCS4605R]

OK - so you can't attach PDF's.  Attached is a JPG.

Tom

[andy harwood]

This is how I made mine. Heavy wall tubing, reamed to size, then tapped. Had to buy a left hand tap though.

[TCS4605R]

Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies sells ‘weldable threaded tube ends’ with right hand and left hand threads plus right and left hand threaded rod ends

Tom