The Zetec 'Ropacane

[BDA]

More cool stuff, Chuck! Did you consider an aluminum flywheel with a crank position sensor? Knowing nothing about that, I would have thought it would be available.

I can certainly understand the attraction to fuel injection but Webers have a certain cache. 

[Chuck Nukem]

Thanks BDA

More cool stuff, Chuck! Did you consider an aluminum flywheel with a crank position sensor? Knowing nothing about that, I would have thought it would be available.

I can certainly understand the attraction to fuel injection but Webers have a certain cache. 

I did and I have... It sounds silly to do all this work for a temporary solution but the Zetec is not actually a long term resident in this car...

The problem with the OEM crank position sensor is that it is hall effect and needs a ferrous material to trigger it. I could adapt to crank wheel or some other trigger mechanism but that almost immediately puts me in aftermarket ECU territory. I think the same is true of my throttle bodies for now...Is it too late to say I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel on this engine?... He says as buys a block of aluminum on ebay and he still contemplates milling a thermostat housing to avoid cutting a 5 minute notch in the TC bellhousing....

The list is still quite long, but I'm afraid I wouldn't save that much time or money switching to carbs if I can get the ford ECU to kick this thing over.

[RoddyMac]

He says as buys a block of aluminum on ebay and he still contemplates milling a thermostat housing to avoid cutting a 5 minute notch in the TC bellhousing....

Something like this: 



I took a piece of 1/2" ally, bored it out and spot faced it for a "normal" t/stat from an MGB/TR6/Lotus etc, then used a triumph t/stat housing and welded on a bung for a heater take off.  I wish I had done this when building the Europa as it would have saved some of the alternator mount if anyone wanted to mount one there.  This set up is going in the B GT I picked up last summer, which is turning out to be more work than expected.

[Chuck Nukem]

Precisely!!

[GavinT]

I have the aluminum coolant tubes bent up. I still need to bead roll the tips.

Interested in how you did this, Chuck.
Just anneal the tube, fill with sand and bend? . . or?

[Chuck Nukem]

I have the aluminum coolant tubes bent up. I still need to bead roll the tips.

Interested in how you did this, Chuck.
Just anneal the tube, fill with sand and bend? . . or?

I have access to a hydraulic tubing bender...handy tool. It's at the place where I keep my machine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iayHcLOM9lQ

[Bainford]

Looking good, Chuck.
How important are the beads? I notice the steel pipes do not have them. Are they necessary, or is it merely seen as the 'right way' to do it?

[BDA]

The transfer tubes fit snuggly in the grommets that are put in the frame so they don't rattle, thus no beads. It might be possible to install beaded tubes if you could install the grommets into the frame while the tubes are in place. Keep in mind that you'd also have to take the grommets out of the frame before you took the tubes out (hopefully an EXTREMELY RARE occurrence!  ).

I would never say it doesn't happen, and knowing my ability to screw things up it would happen to me, but I've never heard of a hose coming off one of the transfer tubes.

It sounds like a good idea but IMHO, it's not worth it.

[jbcollier]

Beading on the end of coolant pipes is important.  It's just not possible on the Europa.  I put three pop rivets around each end.  Works to hold the hose on and are easily removed when you need to remove the tubes.

[Chuck Nukem]

I wonder if I could braze a little ring on. Probably more pain than its worth.

[EuropaTC]

I wonder if I could braze a little ring on. Probably more pain than its worth.

Personally I wouldn't over-think it.

Take a step back and remember that the Europa has managed to cope since 1966 without a bead on the two main transfer pipes and leakage with the standard coolant and hoses doesn't seem to have been a problem.

Brian

[GavinT]

Thanks, Chuck.

Have thought long and hard about ally tubes and not sure I'd be happy installing them using the stock grommet set up given the chafing potential.
I'm thinking it might be prudent to enlarge the chassis holes and use larger/thicker grommets. Have to think about where the handbrake horse shoe runs as well.

[Chuck Nukem]

I wonder if I could braze a little ring on. Probably more pain than its worth.

Personally I wouldn't over-think it.

Take a step back and remember that the Europa has managed to cope since 1966 without a bead on the two main transfer pipes and leakage with the standard coolant and hoses doesn't seem to have been a problem.

Brian

Wise advice

[Chuck Nukem]

Because I'm always pulling myself in different directions something has to suffer and lately that is the frequency of updates on here!!
I could wait til another date and show you guys the finished product, but instead I will share more disjointed progress straight from the hands of the madness that wrought it. The final pic is of the two pieces yet to be joined.
I tried bagging this part in two set ups because I was worried about bridging. I still had some in the lower panel around the bosses... I think my bag technique is steadily improving though.
I bolted the molds together and joined these two parts this evening. We will all see together if this was a success or not. If it is then I plan to do the same process on the rear deck lid. If not then back to the drawing board....

The real challenge of bagging this spoiler is the acute angle which makes layup difficult for the aesthetic top layer if you were to try it in one shot. The rear decklid has similar challenges with the C channel that makes up the support structure along the edges... Why do I torture myself so??

[BDA]

That looks like nice work, Chuck! I’m anxious to see how the rear deck lid comes out!