The Zetec 'Ropacane

[Chuck Nukem]

Will you be making your molded parts in polyester/fiberglass, or will you be "adding lightness" and going epoxy/carbon fiber? You might even find you have a cottage industry producing CF parts for weight obsessed Europa owners, once you have the molds.
Tom

Tom,

For myself I am going to make Epoxy/CF boot and bonnet on the S1. The factory parts had X core bracing, and are probably 1/4" thick of fiberglass. The TC panels are much lighter so I don't think it would be worth the effort. I am going to paint these panels body color so there will be not outside clues. If other people are interested I would be glad to facilitate their obsessions I will try fitting these lids to my S2 to see if there is compatibility. Despite being the same shape, The s1 front lid does not fit too well on the TC and some of the flanging is different at the front - not sure on S2. 

I am planning to mold a set of bumpers for the TC because my metal ones were very pitted. I filled them and primed them years ago, but never got around to the execution stage on molding. I might leave these in exposed CF

[Chuck Nukem]

G'day Chuck,

Just one hint on moulding large panels.
After the layup on the donor door, be sure to glass on a reinforcement frame of some sort.
The idea is to make the mould rigid so that any subsequent parts taken from the mould aren't distorted.

The reinforcing frame can be made out of anything that's rigid. I've seen them made out of plumbing pipe which is not pretty, but entirely satisfactory.
For extra points, make the frame such that the mould can sit flat on the workbench.

This guy's work seems pretty good to me.


http://www.sceadu.com/support_fiberglass.html

Gavin,

Thank you very much for posting that! I always like to read and research other peoples methods. I am using the same material supplier that he used so I won't have that excuse if mine turn out crap!

There is a good youtube channel of this Australian taxidermist who does some very effective molding. WJP004 is the name of his channel. He does his part layups wet to make them simple, but on the mold side he is very generous about showing off his tricks. I am planning to go VARTM (infusion) on these parts.

[JR73]

Tom,

For myself I am going to make Epoxy/CF boot and bonnet on the S1. The factory parts had X core bracing, and are probably 1/4" thick of fiberglass. The TC panels are much lighter so I don't think it would be worth the effort. I am going to paint these panels body color so there will be not outside clues. If other people are interested I would be glad to facilitate their obsessions I will try fitting these lids to my S2 to see if there is compatibility. Despite being the same shape, The s1 front lid does not fit too well on the TC and some of the flanging is different at the front - not sure on S2. 

Heads up, the engine cover off an S1/S2 is actually different to a TC - aside from the ‘vent apertures’ being different the real difference is in the area just in front of the ‘flip’ as either side has more shape than a TC to blend into the higher buttress of the S1/S2 - easy to miss until you see it...

[Chuck Nukem]

Thanks Jon,

I was thinking more for the front lid. I wasn't planning to make an S1 style rear lid for the TC....but I must admit, now I am off to put the S1 lid on the TC to see if I can spot that flaw!

[GavinT]

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the link to WJP004.
He has precisely the no nonsense approach needed to take the mystery out of this stuff.
Who'd have thought taxidermy would be a handy skill to have. 

[Chuck Nukem]

Hi Chuck,

Thanks for the link to WJP004.
He has precisely the no nonsense approach needed to take the mystery out of this stuff.
Who'd have thought taxidermy would be a handy skill to have. 

I love his videos! He was self building a country house around the same time I was restoring mine. He gets after it for an old bugger!! Every time I lacked enthusiasm to tile or drywall I would just throw one of his vids on and I was back at it soon...


I wonder how he, being a taxidermist, looks at the world? They say welders see all projects as a weldament, machinists see everything as a solid block...

[Bodzer]

Nicely done Chuck! I’ve been watching that Australian guy’s channel fo awhile now. I liked the one where he made an oven out of a discarded gas bbq to soften lexan for a windscreen. Didn’t realize taxidermy was his trade!

Are the S1 doors a straight swap?

[Chuck Nukem]

Nicely done Chuck! I’ve been watching that Australian guy’s channel fo awhile now. I liked the one where he made an oven out of a discarded gas bbq to soften lexan for a windscreen. Didn’t realize taxidermy was his trade!

Are the S1 doors a straight swap?

Bodzer,

I think it would take some doing to get a latch system that would work. One would probably have to use an S1 style latch on the door, and make a reciever for the body. Mostly I put that door on the body to get a visual look of a door on the primed body for the picture because my TC doors were full of spot putty for pin hole repairs at that time.

I like the look of it enough to explore more. If the boot and bonnet molds go smoothly the S1 doors are next...because whats another project in a project right?!

[Bodzer]

Thanks Chuck for the reply. Good luck!

[Chuck Nukem]

When I was repairing the damaged fender way back at the beginning of this thing I remember being buried in a cloud of bondo dust as I ground the previous repair away. To copy the profile of the fender, I took cardboard cutouts every 6" starting from behind the headlight. Today I realized I should have started AT the headlight. I trial fitted the buckets and indicators. The LH fender had a surplus of material around the light. Nothing a little plastic surgery couldn't fix!

Still filling the 2nd round of pin holes on the TC. I expect more of the same tomorrow. Should get the second coat of primer down early next week. I am going to try 3d printing the hinge pins for door fitting purposes during painting. The last big issue is the fitment of the rear deck lid. Once those things are sorted I can start dialing in the body lines and think about the sealing epoxy coat...

It was nice to see her with the semblance of a face for the first time in a long time! I can't wait til those enthusiastic eyes greet me on the driveway every morning!

[BDA]

Great work, Chuck! That really does look better but I have to say, I would never have noticed it if you hadn't pointed it out!

This isn't quite the same but it reminds me of a racer friend who made flares for his Shelby GT350. He admitted that they were quite the same side to side but suggested that if you could see both flares at the same time, you had more problems than he did!

I have a feeling you're going to build some very nice cars!

[Chuck Nukem]

It's the never ending sanding!!! I wake up every morning thinking I am ready for primer round 2 but alas I find and fix several dozen more things every day. Hope to have some new primer pics up soon

[dakazman]

 Hey Chuck,  Have you given the thought to raise the base of your dolly to about 2’ . It’s much more comfortable and easier to paint.
Dakazman

[Chuck Nukem]

I put blocks under the car approx 12" higher when I paint it. I am 5'2" so sanding the roof is easier when it is at 'ride height'

[3929R]

One good thing about not looking at this forum in too long, seeing your progress Chuck. Wow! Looking good man!