Twin Cam Special 2267P

[BDA]

The studs can be taken off the front or the rear hubs in-situ. I've done it.

[SilverBeast]

Same stud front and back IIRC.

The Parts Manual gives two different past numbers, but identical descriptions http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/index.htm under front and rear suspension. SJS give one part number for all variants https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ036C0009.htm and Europa Engineering / Lotus Supplies limited seem to offer the same or 12mm Kits and components.  I assume the 12mm Kits non-standard? They look as though they are £50 cheaper! I was wondering if the PO may have fitted one of these (I was told engine has been rebuilt in the past).

[SilverBeast]

The studs can be taken off the front or the rear hubs in-situ. I've done it.

Thanks once again for every ones replies.

Is there a link to any instructions for this?  Any special tooling needed?

[BDA]

No special tooling. When I did it, I just tapped them out with a hammer, but it would be better to hold a punch on the end of the stud and tap the punch with a hammer. If you're keeping the stud, it would also be a good idea to screw a nut on the end of the stud to protect the stud. There is enough room behind the hole in the hub for the stud to come out. I did it on the side of the road (don't ask!) so I only had a hammer. It was easy. One thing you might consider is using Loktite on the knurl when you reinstall the studs. Once the studs go in and out, it can sometimes make for a looser fit the next time.

[4129R]

Certified's plastic clips sound nice. I used Velcro.

I used the same P clips and plastic cups that hold the door card panels to the doors.

You have to drill the holes slightly bigger and attach the P clips to the underside with a 2" strip of aluminium and 2 self tapping screws holding the aluminium to the underside of the pad. You can slide the P clips up and down until the match the cups, then tighten the screws.

The cable cannot come out of the U as the threaded adjuster keeps it in the groove.

[JR73]

The cable cannot come out of the U as the threaded adjuster keeps it in the groove.

It does but if the cable falls too slack the cable can fall out of the ends of the U, especially if it is upside down, which then won't help when the handbrake next gets pulled. You can also pinch the ends of the U slightly to stop the cable falling out but surely its easier to just fit it correctly in the first place? - That would also help if anyone ever needs to replace the cable in the future as 'un pinching' the ends of the U would be a difficult task inside the chassis and it wont fit out of the slot in the chassis that the cable is fed in through.....

[GavinT]

It does but if the cable falls too slack the cable can fall out of the ends of the U, especially if it is upside down, which then won't help when the handbrake next gets pulled. You can also pinch the ends of the U slightly to stop the cable falling out but surely its easier to just fit it correctly in the first place? - That would also help if anyone ever needs to replace the cable in the future as 'un pinching' the ends of the U would be a difficult task inside the chassis and it wont fit out of the slot in the chassis that the cable is fed in through.....

Agreed, the crimping makes little sense but my Type 54 has a U with pinched ends and I've seen others likewise.
It's a bodge but I presumed they came from the factory that way.
Happy to be corrected.

[BDA]

My 'U' or horseshoe was crimped from the factory.

[JR73]

Mine also has slightly crimped ends - as it came from the factory. I have been able to just about wrestle the rear cable out without having to un crimp these ends but the cable was resting in the bottom of the U with the handbrake released and the open side facing upwards. - It didn't rely on the ends to be crimped overly tight to stop the rear cable falling out of the bottom!

All of this is in answer to which way is correct?! Workshop manual and parts listing suggest it was intended that way along with the practicalities of fitting and servicing those parts in a fairly inaccessible part of the car.... would gladly watch someone prove me wrong by easily getting the cable in the U that's facing downwards and crimp the ends sufficiently to retain the cable whilst positioning it all under the waterpipes.... popcorn at the ready but i can't promise not to laugh at the cursing 

My car has it fitted the way i've described as have many other Europas that i was involved in building and/or servicing over a number of years whilst working at Banks (mine even has aluminium water pipes for it to rub on!!) and tbh i can't say i ever saw a car that we stripped or worked on where the water pipes had been rubbed through by the handbrake cables or associated components (they generally rot first!). Happy to add also that i am not claiming to be 100% correct but looking at the info that we all have to hand it would appear to be fitted that way around.

[SilverBeast]

So I put it back in the garage and the sun came out.  Typical British weather.

I'd noticed the steering wheel was scraping against the column surround and that the "outer column" that holds the indicator/headlight stalks could rotate slightly and also move in and out so I decided to look at that.  I also wanted to finish getting the centre horn push to work.

The outer column was moving inside the clamp that holds it to the dashboard with two studs, one of which is a ground point for some of the wiring.  After I took it apart I noticed a shaped steel spacer which I assume is supposed to locate in the groove on the inside of the two clamp halves (it's easier to look at the pictures). I assume that the join faces up so that it doesn't pinch the wiring held in the lower half of the clamp. Can anyone tell me if I am correct?

As mine was already tight I have taken the paint off the mating faces so it will hopefully clamp a little tighter.  Is the spacer supposed to grip the clamp and column? It is shaped and has high and low points.

I'm still looking for a definitive answer about the "spacer" and steering column clamp. (Pictures are in the post above on Page 4).  The grey metal spacer (in the second picture) just to the right of the white tube I'm propping the steering column with while the clamp is off was round the outer column when I removed the clamp but I didn't notice where.  It must have been between the bottom of the section that widens out to accept the stalks and above the mounting plate for the ignition switch.  It isn't a complete circle, nor is it round - it waves in and out.  The "band" isn't a constant width either it narrows and widens as the diameter increases and decreases.  Rubbish description I know, but hopefully you get the idea in conjuction with the picture! For all I know it may just be to hold the rubber bung into the column, shown half under it in the second picture.

I started fastening the column clamp back on with this "spacer" inside it between the "grooves" on the inner face, which is where I assumed it should have been in order to grip the outer column and stop the movement I described.  It feels as though the two column clamp halves may have quite a gap if I carry on tightening.  I'm reluctant to do this until I'm sure the spacer should be there as I don't want to flatten the bumps round the outside of it only to find out it should be somewhere else later and I can't get a replacement.

Anyone got any idea's?  I haven't posted any more photos as it's still inside the partly tightened clamp, and anyone who's removed the clamp with the dash in will understand my reluctance to take the nuts back off the clamp once you've got the clamp back in place and the nuts on!

Thanks,

Richard

[SilverBeast]

BTW I 'm sure the column has been disconnected from the rack at some time as the self cancelling isn't centred and there are marks on the column and steering wheel mounting that down't line up, but were clearly put there for that purpose!

[jbcollier]

Does the diagram on the page below help?

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005792

[SilverBeast]

Yes Thanks it does.  It shows the spacer where I have fitted it!  And I just found this for a Triumph Vitesse which shows it as 609639 - red circle was already on image

[BDA]

Or maybe this diagram might help: http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/h/tcha.pdf

I don't remember all the details but there is a clamp that is bolted on the inner shaft and has a set screw with a jam nut (it's hard to tell but it's item #3 in the diagram). This should be set to ride against end of the outer steering column.

I'm not sure about the spacer but from your description, you might have a problem with the turn signal/light controls (I assume the US and UK TCSs are the same in this regard - the wipers, horn, washer, turns signals, bright headlights are on stalks and the guts are covered with a fiberglass cover that is upholstered in vinyl like the seats.). Sometimes the plastic clamp can break and the steering column controls are no longer anchored. I had this problem so I sawed a slot and wrapped a piece of steel strapping to make a new clamp (see attached picture). You can't see where I sawed the slot but I think you can see what I mean. IIRC, there is also a tab on the steering column controls which positions it radially. It kind of sounded like that might be broken(?) in which case I can't be much help except to say that those are Spitfire pieces and are available wherever fine Spitfire parts are sold.

I hope that helps at least a little.

[SilverBeast]

Thanks BDA/jbcolier. The UK special retains the original controls by the look of it. The right hand setup in BDA's link. Left Hand stalk only does high/low beam and flash. The right does indicators. I suspect only federal cars had extra stalk control. Jbcolliers link and the diagram I found show the "spacer" I referred to. All the bits are metal on this setup, except some bushes that guide the inner column within the outer I believe.