Twin Cam Special 2267P

[BDA]

I'm not familiar with Richard's jois but what you have looks original to me. JR73 can be more definitive. The bushings at the bottom of the gear lever are available, just buy new ones. It also looks like the pivot bolted on the bell housing is loose. Obviously check the u-joints between the linkage halves and the one at the tranny for slop.

I THINK there is a sort of a dog-leg in the handbrake lever but it should not rug the fiberglass. You can take it out and bend it a little so it doesn't rub.

I'm not sure I understand about the handbrake balance rubbing the heater tubes but I would try to route it away from tubes or put some rubber cover of some sort on the handbrake cable to cushion it.

The radiator fan override should not be routed near moving stuff. First, the wires should follow the Lucas standard at least keeping up with the standard for white, green, and brown wires. Here's the complete standard (https://www.triumphexp.com/article/lucas-colours.html). There is a place where wires from the fuse box run under the front trunk. That's a better place to route those wires.

Sorry, I can't remember where the windscreen washer tube is routed. For some reason, my washer quit working and it's really hard to take it off the back of the dash to test or replace the pump. 

[SilverBeast]

Thanks for your reply

The bushings at the bottom of the gear lever are available, just buy new ones.

I know about the nylon bushes.  It looks like sj sports cars have a brass or oilite one. I assume I'll need two https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ535.htm

It also looks like the pivot bolted on the bell housing is loose.

I think there is a washer, or spacer between the bracket and the bell housing.  It feels solid.

It also looks like the pivot bolted on the bell housing is loose.

I will do when I get it on axle stands - hopefully tomorrow morning if I can drag myself our of bed.

I'm not sure I understand about the handbrake balance rubbing the heater tubes but I would try to route it away from tubes or put some rubber cover of some sort on the handbrake cable to cushion it.

You can see where the handbrake cable has rubbed on one of the pipes inside the chassis central tunnel.  I was wondering if they have been routed wrong somewhere else which has pulled them to where they are.  I seem to recall reading something about it on one of the other threads, but haven't had chance to try and find it again.

The radiator fan override should not be routed near moving stuff. First, the wires should follow the Lucas standard at least keeping up with the standard for white, green, and brown wires. Here's the complete standard (https://www.triumphexp.com/article/lucas-colours.html). There is a place where wires from the fuse box run under the front trunk. That's a better place to route those wires.

I think I mentioned the wires in my "New Member" post.  I intend to re-route them and rig up a fan relay.  The radiator "otter" switch is also disconnected, I'm assuming it's failed, so I will replace that if required so that it will come on automatically in case I'm enjoying myself too much to look at the temperature guage and flick the switch!  I still have the horn push to check properly so I can disconnect it from the "fan" switch on the dash, and re-instate air-flow to the cabin, other than by forward motion!

[4129R]

The clear tube from the washer reservoir sack goes into the void where the handbrake reaction lever is, along the top of the centre chassis tunnel underneath the heater to the pump screwed to the back of the dashboard. 

[BDA]

Those brass bushes look great! I would get those over the nylon ones. Two are required.

AFAIK, the factory did nothing to restrain the choke, heater, handbrake, or speedo cables in the backbone. Anything you can do in that regard would be a positive as would any cushioning you can do to keep one thing from abrading another.

I got an aluminum radiator which has a threaded bung for the fan thermostat. For whatever reason, probably because I lunched out, I wasn't able to make it work so I use a fan controller. It's nice because it allows me to adjust when the fan comes on and an override circuit is built into it. There's nothing wrong with the otter switch (other than the fear that the pressure might pop it out (I don't think I've heard of that happening but that may require occasional replacement of the rubber grommet around it.). I believe I have seen where some employ a mechanical means such as a zip tie, to ensure it doesn't pop out. Of course, if yours has failed, you will probably need a fan controller since I couldn't find them listed at SJ Sportscars or Lotus Supplies.

[JR73]

Gearbox linkage photos below.  Definite metal to metal rattle from gear lever when moving gently side to side, without moving front section of gearbox linkage, and some rotation of gear lever without moving linkage either! Does anyone have the dimensions of the plastic bushes fitted to the bottom of the gear lever?  I know 3929R replaced his with Oilite and would like to do the same when I get round to it. I suspect gearbox will be out soon ish for clutch issues anyway, so it would be the ideal time to replace them then.

That is not a Banks modified gear linkage - it looks pretty much like the original (which the Banks one definitely doesn't resemble at all!) so it could possibly be an original based replacement from Banks that may or may not have some alternative parts in due to availability etc.
From your description I think you are correct to suspect that the bushes at the base of the gearstick are shot! Whilst you are investigating that it is worth checking the condition of the bearing and plate that the gearstick is mounted in - there isn't much to it and an old and tired one can contribute to poor shifting. Have seen quite a few where due to the bushes being worn and the resultant poor shifting the bearing ends up worn excessively in the plate.

It's not a great pic but below shows part of the Banks modified gear linkage (there are versions of this that can be fitted to the original chassis but you can see how different it is from what you have).

[SilverBeast]

Thanks once again for everyone's responses.

Looks like I'll finally have to start getting my hands dirty!

[BDA]

Thanks once again for everyone's responses.

Looks like I'll finally have to start getting my hands dirty!

Did you seriously think you could own an Europa and not get your hands dirty?!

[SilverBeast]

Course not it's one of the reasons I got one. My first two cars were mini's.. and I was servicing my parents Vauxhall Viva and Ford Cortina before I could drive.  Away least I don't need to worry about the body rusting on this one! I'm a sucker for punishment.

[JR73]

Also to note is the handbrake cable outer waving around by the selector shaft and the end of the cable tie used to fasten it to the chassis!

I looked at the front linkage for the handbrake and noticed that the lever between the pull and the cable looks bent downwards so the cable to the rear scrapes the fibreglass.  Is this typical?
Also how is the handbrake balance inside the chassis supposed to be routed? It is clearly rubbing on one of the heater/radiator tubes.

The translator looks to be the correct shape, you are correct that it and the cable shouldn't rub on the fibreglass. From memory it's fixing into the chassis looks to be a threaded tube that sits proud of the chassis by about 10/15mm, the top edge should be about level with the fibreglass of the body. The translator sits on a washer on top of this tube with a sprung steel type washer under the bolt head. - Check to see if it is assembled correctly?
If the felt material that goes between the chassis and body is too thick it can affect the above as the shell sits slightly higher which can make the translator rub on it just like in your picture (have seen this before also!) - it's not practical to suggest that you remove the body to investigate that particular one so a work around is probably best!

There looks to be some sponge foam in and around it that I don't remember should be there (does anyone have this in their car?) which doesn't look like it will be helping.
The wires need re routing as has already been mentioned.
It is possible to open up the slot in the fibreglass to create clearance for the cable and translator but it's best to check its all assembled correctly first.

The handbrake balancer should be underneath both radiator tubes, looks like somebody has struggled to get everything assembled correctly (maybe when replacing a cable?) through the oval access hole in the chassis. It is likely to rub slightly on the bottom of the radiator tubes when the handbrake is pulled on but this will be minimal.
The adjuster is a real PITA to get to!

Looks like you have quite a few jobs to attend to or investigate, nothing is overly difficult and you will enjoy it all the more when it works even better as a result of your efforts.

[BDA]

There looks to be some sponge foam in and around it that I don't remember should be there (does anyone have this in their car?) which doesn't look like it will be helping.

Originally, there was jute padding between the frame and the body. Most people replace the jute with closed cell foam.  Could it be that there was a body-off in your car's past?

[JR73]

There looks to be some sponge foam in and around it that I don't remember should be there (does anyone have this in their car?) which doesn't look like it will be helping.

Originally, there was jute padding between the frame and the body. Most people replace the jute with closed cell foam.  Could it be that there was a body-off in your car's past?

BDA, the sponge foam i meant can be seen in the pic around the translator - can't remember seeing any of that there before?

[BDA]

I don't remember seeing anything like that on my car either. It's hard for me to tell since I haven't looked at that part of my car in a very long time but from the way I look at it, it looks like that foam is between the body and the frame and wasn't trimmed very well.

[SilverBeast]

It's two short bits of square section foam that have been pushed into the gap around the cable pivot assembly over the fiberglass on top of the frame.  I just put it back in after taking it out and wondering what it was for.

[BDA]

I can't help you. I have no clue (again).

[Certified Lotus]

I don’t know how much difference there is between a 74 TCS and a 72TC but in my car there wasn't any foam around the handbrake translator. Someone has stuffed this in for some reason (a squeak maybe?). Having just completed a 3 year frame off on my 72 TC I know every inch of these cars.  (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1704.0)

Those blue wires should be rerouted to the other side of the dash. All the wiring goes thru the body to the front of the car through a small indent in the fiberglass behind the fuse box. It’s easy to run more wiring, just use a coat hanger wire to tun it through. This is also where the windshield spray hose is routed to the fluid bag in the front of the car.

The handbrake adjuster should be below the water pipes. See photos attached.