Twin Cam Special 2267P

[JR73]

BDA, JR73, Sherman Kaplan.  Thanks for your responses.  That's pretty much the conclusion I had come to.

Thanks for this information.  That one of the (many) other questions I was going to ask.

Looking here -> http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/s2parts/chassis/aa.htm it appears to show that the S1/S2 had a closing plate but here - > http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/chassis/aa.htm it appears that the TC/TCS didn't have them.  Again can anyone with a UK Spec TCS confirm this?

To me it would make sense to fit one if only to give  a modicum of protection to the (single circuit) brake pipes, master cylinder, and the steering rack, from road debris. It may also have a marginal improvement in aerodynamics with a marginally cleaner underbody path.  It would possible also allow you to "surf" further through deep puddles/lakes before gravity finally won    I wonder if anyone has tried to covert a Europa into an Amphicar.....

Does anyone have the dimensions of this closing plate?

All Europa variants from S2 onwards should have a closing plate. TC version is listed in the below link on Banks website, it's different to the S2 closing plate hence the separate listing.

http://www.parts.banks-europa.co.uk/orders_frame.htm

[SilverBeast]

BDA, JR73, Sherman Kaplan.  Thanks for your responses.  That's pretty much the conclusion I had come to.

Thanks for this information.  That one of the (many) other questions I was going to ask.

Looking here -> http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/s2parts/chassis/aa.htm it appears to show that the S1/S2 had a closing plate but here - > http://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/chassis/aa.htm it appears that the TC/TCS didn't have them.  Again can anyone with a UK Spec TCS confirm this?

To me it would make sense to fit one if only to give  a modicum of protection to the (single circuit) brake pipes, master cylinder, and the steering rack, from road debris. It may also have a marginal improvement in aerodynamics with a marginally cleaner underbody path.  It would possible also allow you to "surf" further through deep puddles/lakes before gravity finally won    I wonder if anyone has tried to covert a Europa into an Amphicar.....

Does anyone have the dimensions of this closing plate?

All Europa variants from S2 onwards should have a closing plate. TC version is listed in the below link on Banks website, it's different to the S2 closing plate hence the separate listing.

http://www.parts.banks-europa.co.uk/orders_frame.htm

Great.  Thanks for that.  I've just been looking on the Banks site and couldn't see anything.  It did however seem to add everything I've browsed for the past week or so in that tab to the basket - it was over £50k!

[JR73]

Link doesn't appear to take you to the correct place so here's a screenshot instead!

[JR73]

I wonder if anyone has tried to covert a Europa into an Amphicar.....

Not quite an amphicar but they can certainly float if they need too.....

[BDA]

The M/C spacer was on on TCs (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/tcjb.pdf). I suspect Lotus Supplies might be the best place to find that because Richard, the original proprietor of what is now called Lotus Supplies and he has built complete cars.

Just to avoid any confusion, Lotus Supplies used to be Banks.

[SilverBeast]

The M/C spacer was on on TCs (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/tcjb.pdf). I suspect Lotus Supplies might be the best place to find that because Richard, the original proprietor of what is now called Lotus Supplies and he has built complete cars.

Just to avoid any confusion, Lotus Supplies used to be Banks.

Thanks for the replies BDA. Mine only has the single circuit sytem (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/ja.htm), which doesn't appear to have the spacer, with a single servo.  I suspect the spacer  was only on the cars with dual circuit brakes - I assume the M/C is bigger - and we may not have got that in the UK as I don't believe we were as quick off the mark with Health & Safety!  That's probably why we also got the TCS Big Valve High Compression 126bhp engines while the Federal versions had the 113bhp versions - if you can believe Wikipedia!

[BDA]

I agree that you have to be careful with Wikipedia but those number sound familiar. Unless the parts manual page is incorrect, you are right about the spacer! The dual braking system had a M/C with a reservoir on top which definitely required a spacer for it to clear the rack. Well, in that case, I'd see what I could do to ensure a good junction between the brake pipe and the M/C. Keeping it away from the rack gator (bellows) might be a good first step. Those gators are what is available at the time. I think the design of them changes slightly from year to year, probably depending on who makes them that year so yours may be a bit bigger around than others.

[4129R]

 it looks like the UK Specials didn't have a spacer block between the Master Cylinder and the chassis.  Can anyone with a UK Special confirm this?

There is about a 3" oval cast aluminium spacer between the master cylinder and the chassis. If you lose it, you can make 3 spacers, 1 large round one for the extension bar to go in, and two small round ones for the studs. I did this for one car and wrapped the three with black tape to make them look the right shape.

[SilverBeast]

So I've had chance to drive it a bit more. 

The clutch is slipping when you give it some beans in 3rd and 4th and it's just started crunching the gear when I select reverse, as if the clutch isn't disengaged properly, though it doesn't seem to drag.  I guess it's possible the crankshaft oil seal is leaking into the bell housing.  Could it then get onto the clutch and cause the slipping?  It does seem to recover when you ease off and only do it when the engine is hot.  The car milometer shows just over 62k miles so it could just be on it's last legs.  Is there a way of checking plate wear via an inspection hole? or does the engine and transaxle need to come out to check it?

Oil level doesn't seem to be going down, though I've probably only done about 100miles since I got it. It's only got minor incontinence, a few drops from the bottom of the sump and the left hand side of the transaxle I think.

Pretty convinced the bushings will be missing at the bottom of the gear lever, just by the amount of slop, and the way the gear lever rotates!  I also need to check the bushing where the two selector shafts meet.  I was told the rear section was replaced by one from Banks.

Hopefully this weekend I'll get chance to check clutch adjustment, get the back up on axle stands and check out the rear brakes.  I'm not overly happy with only an inch or so of "bite" in the brakes at the bottom of the travel!

While it's up in the air I also intend to get some gunk onto all the oil and muck on the engine and transaxle and pressure wash it off.  If I get it clean enough I may be able to get a better idea where any the leaks are.

I also need to try and clear organise my garage a bit more so I can fit in some more equipment (and have room to work).

Then get online and buy some more stuff!

[BDA]

I don't know of a way to check the clutch disk with the tranny installed. I would not think that a 62K mile clutch would be on it's last legs. I would check the clutch cable adjustment. If that's not successful, then you might need to replace the clutch disk. Taking the tranny out isn't that big a deal. While it's all out, you should get a new throw-out bearing, check the clutch plate to make sure it hasn't gotten scored and is flat.

If your oil level changes after 100 miles, I would be very concerned!   

The leak on the side of the tranny should be addressed but if it's minor, you have plenty of time to get and learn what you need to fix it The seals around the output shaft is surely the culprit. I believe there is a thread on this forum about doing that. Doing it correctly is very important because the nuts also control the ring and pinion back lash. In the meantime monitor the level of tranny oil and keep it topped up.

Good luck on your garage clearing up/organizing!

[jbcollier]

If your clutch is both dragging and slipping, and has full pedal travel, it’s probably on its last legs.

[JR73]

Pretty convinced the bushings will be missing at the bottom of the gear lever, just by the amount of slop, and the way the gear lever rotates!  I also need to check the bushing where the two selector shafts meet.  I was told the rear section was replaced by one from Banks.

Take a picture of the rear gear linkage and post it on here, we can confirm if it's original or Banks for you? - it could be an original replacement from Banks or a Banks modified linkage, there is quite a difference between them.

It's fairly easy to remove just the gearbox to get to the clutch - leaving the engine in, like BDA has said once it's off you can check the condition of everything to get a better idea of what might be causing the slip - hard to guess without looking at it as there are many things that could cause it tbh.
Chances are it's just worn out as you suspect.

Check that the cable moves freely too, it's unlikely but it could be past its best and not allowing the clutch to fully engage.

[SilverBeast]

Gearbox linkage photos below.  Definite metal to metal rattle from gear lever when moving gently side to side, without moving front section of gearbox linkage, and some rotation of gear lever without moving linkage either! Does anyone have the dimensions of the plastic bushes fitted to the bottom of the gear lever?  I know 3929R replaced his with Oilite and would like to do the same when I get round to it. I suspect gearbox will be out soon ish for clutch issues anyway, so it would be the ideal time to replace them then.

[SilverBeast]

Also to note is the handbrake cable outer waving around by the selector shaft and the end of the cable tie used to fasten it to the chassis!

I looked at the front linkage for the handbrake and noticed that the lever between the pull and the cable looks bent downwards so the cable to the rear scrapes the fibreglass.  Is this typical?
Also how is the handbrake balance inside the chassis supposed to be routed? It is clearly rubbing on one of the heater/radiator tubes.

[SilverBeast]

The blue wires are for the fan override switch fitted by a PO!  Does the windscreen washer tube usually run under there as well?  If not where is it normally routed?