Twin Cam Special 2267P

[BDA]

Yeah, I thought that might be the case after your reply to JB's post. Oh well...

[SilverBeast]

So I'm finally getting round to ordering the studs and nuts (as well as some other bits). I'm doing them all as I don't know if the rest have been previously damaged as well.

Am I better with 12mm studs or the originals? ( I need to get the nuts/washers anyway) . I have the original Lotus alloys.

Banks seem to only du kits for the 12mm variants, which are considerably cheaper than buying 16 of each of the originals!

[SilverBeast]

.....and is it a straight swap or do the hubs need drilling for the 12mm studs.

Tanks in advance.

Richard

[BDA]

I have 12mm studs. I think the hubs had to be drilled for them. If you are not going to tapered nuts, you should see if you can get 12mm nuts with washers and then drill the wheels if needed. But unless you have some reason for going to the larger studs like a much more powerful engine, you intend to drive it really hard, or you want to make changes to the wheels (e.g. tapered nuts) the stock 3/8" studs should be sufficient.

[SilverBeast]

Hi BDA,

Thanks for the reply. I'll stick with standard then.

I'll email Lotus Supplies and see if they do a studs/bolts bundle for the standard aet like they do for the 12mm versions.

Cheers,
Richard

[SilverBeast]

OK, so it goes to Richard@Banks Europa so I'll probably ring on Friday/Monday

[BDA]

Any place that supplies classic MGs or Triumphs should have studs for you.

[SilverBeast]

Probably ought to buy them from Moss then as they address right next to work.  I'll still need the wheel nuts though as two of mine are stripped.
Thanks again.

[Fotog]

I had missed all this about your wheel studs and nuts, but I've recently gone through much of what you're doing.

I have 70's era Appliance wheels that are now obsolete antiques and broke the 'shaft' part off of one nut.  Well!  Quite a big deal.  It's a smaller O.D. than any other I've seen.  I ultimately decided to modify the wheels to take a more-standard 60 degree tapered nut, but doing that makes it critical that I get longer studs.  The old originals probably weren't long enough for these wheels anyway.

So while I'm doing that, I think I'll go up to 12mm x 1.5 size.  I'll have to get the hub off.  Haven't done that yet.

I got the studs yesterday,  P/N CLP9037L for a Land Rover Freelander.  They are supposed to be same knurl diameter as the Spitfire ones we have and they seem to be (but I didn't have my glasses on to read my vernier caliper).  Rimmer Bros. in the UK has them.  OEM and aftermarket at about 1/3 the price.

Here's an article about the change as applied to a Triumph: http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/upgrade_spitfire_wheel_studs.html
 
Once I get the hub off, I think I'm home free.
Good luck!.... I have pictures and about 147 different dimensions, if you want any of that.

[SilverBeast]

So I checked the cooling system with an antifreeze tester,  and it would appear to be just water! Its getting towards freezing weather time and the otter switch isn't working, just a manual override on the cooling fan. I've ordered an aluminium  radiator, with fan from ebay (£135) which should be here by the end of the week.

What temperatures does the otter switch turn  the fan on/off at?

The replacement radiator comes with  tapped hole, I'll find out what size when it arrives.

I'll probably take or down to Moss when it does and see what fan switches they have available that fit, hence the question above. Its  next door to where I work and I'm going in on Thursday anyway to pick up a new interior light for the grand sum of £8.50! It's cheaper th o buy the whole fitting than just the lens and chrome shield!

[BDA]

This topic has come up before. I thought JB had come up with more specific suggestions but I did find this from JB that should get you pointed in the right direction (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=768.msg5703#msg5703).

Those Chinese aluminum radiators are pretty common so somebody else might post their solution.

[SilverBeast]

This topic has come up before. I thought JB had come up with more specific suggestions but I did find this from JB that should get you pointed in the right direction (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=768.msg5703#msg5703)

Thanks. That's just what I was after.

Cheers, Richard

[SilverBeast]

I finally got round to doing some work on the car.

I'm trying to replace the missing plastic bushes at the bottom of the gear lever with the brass ones from SJS.  I got the centre console out and dropped the gear lever. As there isn't a cat in hells chance I'll be able to fit them without moving the lever joint back to the access hole in the tunnel. I undid the centre joint from the ball housing to give me more movement backwards. Still not enough movement so I tried to remove the roll pin where the rear section joins to the selector shaft. It's been driven in from below and the end mushroomed.  It sticks out about 5mm from both sides. I can't get at it very well from above because the gearbox mount (or maybe the hoop from the chassis it mounts to?) Is in the way.

Any tips on how to remove it?  I'm wary of applying too much leverage, or force/ blows as I don't damage the shaft ( or crack the transaxle casing)

[BDA]

Since you disconnected the center from the bell housing maybe by disconnecting the linkage from the tranny, you can pull the whole linkage back till you can address the front of the linkage from the access hole.

[SilverBeast]

Since you disconnected the center from the bell housing maybe by disconnecting the linkage from the tranny, you can pull the whole linkage back till you can address the front of the linkage from the access hole.

That's what I was trying to do.  I couldn't get the roll pin out from the selector shaft,  so can't disconnect it from the transmission. That's why I'm asking for any tips on getting the roll pin out.

I gave up and refitted everything. To add insult to injury,  when I was clearing up I discovered I'd left the piece of foam out that goes under the centre console/ armrest  So I need to take it out again tomorrow,  and refit the two nuts that hold the choke/heater controls that have already stolen time that I'll never get back