Electric Fuel Pump wiring

[Certified Lotus]

Before I finalize the wiring to my electric fuel pump, where have others pulled power from for this? I was going to run a dedicated switched circuit from the fuse box (already ran the wire to the engine bay) but thought to inquire what others have done.

[BDA]

It's been a long time but I think I just found a white white wire on the fuse box and added an extra connection there.

[Grumblebuns]

On my S2 (now sold), I took power directly from the battery to an external fuse box then to a relay, all in the engine compartment. The relay is energized when ever the ignition is on by using a terminal from the coil. Setup should be similar for the TCS. I was going to add a fuel pump impact safety cutout but sold the car before I got around to it.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca 

[surfguitar58]

It's been a long time but I think I just found a white white wire on the fuse box and added an extra connection there.

I believe that is how my PO wired mine. There were some spare spade lugs on the fuse block.
t

[Certified Lotus]

Thanks guys. That is what I was looking for. Joji, love your schematic !

[jbcollier]

In as far as possible, use the original colours for your wiring: brown = unfused battery, purple = fused battery, white = unfused ignition, green = fused ignition, black = ground, etc.  It makes future troubleshooting a breeze.

Use "W" crimp terminals.  They are a 1000% more reliable than "plastic insulated" terminals illustrated.

Use sleeves over your terminals to protect against inadvertent shorts.

Don't use the coil feed as an switched power source.  It's not good practice.

[BDA]

JB, I'm not familiar with "W" crimp terminals. Care to post a picture that explains them?

[Certified Lotus]

Thanks JB. I don’t use crimp terminals, only solder connections. And everything gets shrink wrapped to protect.

Didn’t know about no using coil feed. Will make note of that.

Just ran out of the proper color coded wire, need to order more.

[Grumblebuns]

In as far as possible, use the original colours for your wiring: brown = unfused battery, purple = fused battery, white = unfused ignition, green = fused ignition, black = ground, etc.  It makes future troubleshooting a breeze.

Use "W" crimp terminals.  They are a 1000% more reliable than "plastic insulated" terminals illustrated.

Use sleeves over your terminals to protect against inadvertent shorts.

Don't use the coil feed as an switched power source.  It's not good practice.

I pretty much agree with JBC above. I was using parts I had on hand to get my S2 running. Not pretty but didn't have to run a new wire through to the fuse box for a switched power source.

John, what are "W" crimp terminals? I Googled it and came up with nothing.

Before I  decided to use the coil for switched power, I did recall a discussion on the Yahoo Europa mail list about it. There was a concern about the fuel pump causing some type of feedback to the ignition system, don't remember the details. Do you have any more insight? I was going to use a isolation relay with the fuel pump relay but decided not to and keep it simple. I put a few hundred miles on the car with no ignition issues before I sold it.

Certified, where are you mounting your fuel pump on your TC?

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca

[Certified Lotus]

.

Certified, where are you mounting your fuel pump on your TC?

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca

Electric fuel pump installed under the carbs and bolted to the chassis. Rubber isolation mounted.

[jbcollier]

"W" crimp terminals look like this:

http://cdn3.volusion.com/ohrdx.wqydt/v/vspfiles/photos/C223-2T.jpg?1458738091

Sleeves:

http://cdn3.volusion.com/ohrdx.wqydt/v/vspfiles/photos/C222-2T.jpg?1458738065

[gideon]

I don’t use crimp terminals, only solder connections.

I read a bit about the pros and cons of crimping vs soldering.  What I learnt is that crimping is faster than soldering and no less reliable if done properly.  In some cases it may even be more reliable.  This is a good read if you are a crimp skeptic (or even if you're not)

https://hackaday.com/2017/02/09/good-in-a-pinch-the-physics-of-crimped-connections/

[surfguitar58]

I believe the American Yacht and Boat Council (ABYC) allows for crimped, or crimped and soldered, but not solder alone. They also require tinned copper wire.

Yeah, I know it a car, not a boat.

t

[GavinT]

"W" crimp terminals look like this:

Ahhh . . OK, I thought those were called “open barrel” terminals.

I used to solder them and add shrink wrap. Then a friend showed me his brand spanking new ratcheting crimper and I was hooked. It does such a brilliant job and consistently so.

First pic:
“Open_Barrel_Crimp”

Second pic:
"W" crimp for use on Tyco/AMP SOLISTRAND uninsulated terminals


My crimper does the same as the first pic.

The second pic seems to show a distinct ”W” shape pressed into a closed barrel of the terminal. Are these terminals and crimping style specific to those brand names (Tyco/AMP SOLISTRAND)?

Off hand, I don’t recall which crimp Lotus used.

[BDA]

That looks like a really great crimping tool!

I'm guessing that for insulated terminals, the insulation would need to be pushed up the wire, then the terminal is crimped and then the insulation would be pushed back over the terminal. Right?