TCS 3442R restoration

[Sherman Kaplan]

I sent my calipers, master cylinder, boosters and pwda switch to White Post to have them restore.

Interesting item:  On the boosters that I have seen rebuilt the original band is cut and a new clamp on band is used.  White Post must have someway of removing and reusing the original band.    I'm sure the boosters were taken apart as I can see a new gasket between the hydraulic body and the diaphragm shell and there is a new rubber hose coming out of the diaphragm shell (which needs to be replaced with the shell open).  I read somewhere about a technique to remove the original band in one piece, but I would think it's easier to just replace? 

Sherman

[Certified Lotus]

I wonder if it’s possible to switch the outside half of the caliper with another and the dimensions changed?

[brucelotus26r]

I replaced the wheel bearing on my Elan for our road trip to Log and had the same problem on the left side ?
Turned out one of the bearing races was not fully seated ? Take another look it them.

[brucelotus26r]

I also cut the new felt down to as it was way to thick and used the old real metal peace not the stamped sheet metal ?

[Sherman Kaplan]

Thanks, I did double check the bearings and the races. The races are fully seated.    I also made sure the felt was not too thick.  I even tried the hub without the felt and metal piece and it was the same.

Sherman

[Sherman Kaplan]

I finished making and installing new brake lines.  As I'm a firm believer in Murphy's Law so I decided to test the brake lines/connections for leaks.  I made some connecting lines to substitute for the brake boosters which will  be installed when the body is back on the chassis.   I didn't want to use the master cylinder at this time so instead I used a pump meant to bleed the brakes on the lines that go to the MC. 
For $10 I bought a small tool to lock the piston in the PWDA switch.  I know I could remove the electrical switch and move the piston to center, but this little tool makes life a little easier. I stuffed paper towels at each connection to help spot any leaks.   I pumped fluid until I was sure that it was coming out of the bleeders. No leaks, except for the cheap pump that leaked like a sieve.

Sherman 

[BDA]

Onward and upward! 

[jbcollier]

The brake system can see pressures over 1000 psi (70 bar).

[Sherman Kaplan]

Thanks, I'll keep checking the connections for leaks when the MC and body are back on the car.    My next step is waiting for Ray at RD to get the rear axle flingers in stock.  His machinist is making a batch and they should hopefully be ready in a week or two.   Once I have the flingers I will be able to install the rear axles.  I've copied the tool that Certified Lotus used to install his axles. 

[Certified Lotus]

It looks like you have AVO front coil overs. What size springs are you using? Are they 10 inch and 150 lbs?

[surfguitar58]

 
For $10 I bought a small tool to lock the piston in the PWDA switch.  I know I could remove the electrical switch and move the piston to center, but this little tool makes life a little easier.

Sherman

Hi Sherman;
Sounds like things are coming along nicely! Can you provide some details on your "$10 PWDA switch tool"? My switch got activated in the last brake bleed and it's on my list of things to reset, but the brakes are working nicely now and I am loath to break into the system again just to reset the switch.
Tom

Edit: I see the pic of the screw with the pin now. That would be easy to make. Is it easy to reset the piston by removing the switch and manipulating the piston through the switch opening, without having to re-bleed the brakes? Have not gotten around to trying that yet.
t

[jbcollier]

Yup.  Remove the plastic switch and simply move the spool back into the central position with a small screwdriver.

[Sherman Kaplan]

This tool is to keep the piston from moving when you bleed brakes. If your piston has moved and your brake light is on you will have to either remove the electrical switch and fish around to center the piston or the manual says to release the opposite bleeder to have pressure try and center the piston. If you search the internet for PWDA switch there are lots of articles about rebuilding and/or centering the piston.  This type of switch was used on MG's and Triumphs from the era.  I think the switch on the Twin Cam came from the Triumph GT6.   MG and the other triumph models seemed to use brass.   I thought for $10 this little tool would save some time.  Plus it was another excuse to buy a new tool. I purchased it from a company called Muscle Car Research.  https://www.musclecarresearch.com/brake-valve-tool If you have a lathe you could make one as you pointed out it is pretty simple.   If you are purchasing you need the ford part which has 3/8 threads.  I believe there is a GM part, but it has 1/2 threads.   

Sherman

[Sherman Kaplan]

Certified,  I am using AVO's that I ordered from Banks.  They are his stock setup.  I unfortunately don't know the rates.

[Sherman Kaplan]

It's been awhile since my last post and I thought it was time for an update for those that are interested.    I finished the chassis and have reunited it with the body.    I'm keeping the paint as is (it is original).  I now have a million little things to do before I can drive it.

Sherman