TCS 3442R restoration

[Sherman Kaplan]

My chassis is back from the shop that was repairing the front T section.   They built an entire new T section and the chassis was epoxy primed and painted with Bill Hirsch chassis black.  The inside of the frame was then sprayed with a cavity wax.    I'm now starting the slow reassembly process.   I've already started fabricating new brake lines and have fitted all the pieces that go inside the frame.  Attached are a few pictures. The first show the reason the T had to be fixed.

I have a question about the front suspension assembly.  When fitting the upper and lower fulcrum pins and other bolts I was planning on using anti seize on everything.  What about the torque settings when using anti seize?  Some suggestions I have read say to use the factory settings other suggestions say to reduce the factory settings by 20% to 30%.

Thanks,
Sherman

[BDA]

Congratulations on your repaired frame!

I know some people who put anti seize on every bolt. I don't think it's a bad idea, I just don't do it. I would think it might be more important if your car sat outside because I suspect you really want to make sure your nuts don't rusted on. In any event, 20 or 30% sounds reasonable but I don't really know.

The lower fulcrum pins will have to be locked into the frame. I would advise you to grind a flat on the lower fulcrum pins and drill and tap a hole on the frame to accept a set screw. The set screw will keep your lower pins from turning when you tighten them up but allow you move them later if you have to. I "glued" mine in with red Loktite before I put the body on and later I wished I could have moved it when I wanted to take the lower wishbones off.

[jbcollier]

The recommended torque setting for chassis bolts are nowhere close to the fastener's yield point so no need to reduce the torque when using anti-seize.  Either you, many years from now, or the next owner, will thank you for using anti-seize.

If you are using the stock suspension bushings, they need to be tightened at running height.  Leave them slightly loose until the car is built up.  Then use ramps to get the car in the air and tighten them down then.

[Certified Lotus]

Looks great. I see your running your brake lines inside the chassis?

[Sherman Kaplan]

Thanks.

I'm using Poly bushings from Banks.  I believe I can torque these up now and not wait until the car is on the ground?

I'm running the brakes lines as stock, through the T section then under the chassis.   The master cylinder in the picture is a spare, I sent the master cylinder, brake boosters and PWDA switch to White Post for restoration.

I had not read about locking the lower fulcrum pin.  The ones I took out were original and were just had a double nut on one side and a single nut on the other (Nylocs) 

I ordered front wheel bearing kits from the usual suppliers.   They sent a nice green Lucas box.  The bearings inside are KOR FHBC, which I gather are made in Korea.   Has anyone had any problems with these?  I checked online and it seems that there are some complaints about these on the UK mini forum.  Any recommendation on what wheel bearing grease to use?

Thanks,
Sherman

[BDA]

The reason you have to torque your suspension at ride height with rubber bushings is that the rubber can only take so much rotation before it tears. If you torque everything at full droop, when you hit a bump, you'll tear the bushings. From what I understand, poly bushings are set up so they rotate freely (sorry, I can't find where I thought I read that).

If yours came out with one side double nutted, that would accomplish the same thing. When I took my lower pivots out, they were stuck (maybe rusted?) in the frame so I figured it was supposed to be that way. In fact, I think I remember that when it was new, there was a full height nyloc nut on both sides of both pivots. What happened to me is that when I glued my lower pivots, the rear of the pin was a little too long and when I went to take off the trailing wishbone half, there wasn't enough room between the end of the pivot and the body work so I had to cut the end of the pivot to get the wishbone half off. If you are able to move the pivot, that won't be a problem. I wouldn't have thought there was enough length to do that. Since it's already done, you're in good shape!

[dakazman]

Sherman , you’re on fire 🔥 parts are flying onto that frame.  Good job with those brake lines.
Keep at at!
Dakazman

[Certified Lotus]

Sorry, confused you with another person who was going to run the brake lines inside the chassis. Great start to your restoration!

[jbcollier]

Yes, you can just torque the fittings with poly bushings at any point.  Just the bonded rubber bushings need to be done at normal ride height.

Myself, I use bearings from Europa (SKF, FAG) and Japan (NSK).  I'm not saying other bearings are not good quality.  I prefer to pay a little more and not have to worry about it.

Use a good-quality, name-brand, wheel bearing grease.  Some people insist you need a high temperature rated wheel bearing grease.  I have not found that the case for normal street use.  Track use is another matter entirely.

[jbcollier]

Timkin are fine as well.

[Fotog]

Brings to mind:  When I was about 10 (1966) living near Detroit, with dad working for Ford, there was a Timkin jingle we would hear on the radio:  "...with Timkin steel and Timkin roller bearings, roller bearings..."  I can hear it now.  How times change, and how those things stick!   Everybody in the neighborhood worked for a car company.

[Sherman Kaplan]

I received my rebuilt master cylinder, calipers and boosters so I'm on my way again.    I'm trying to finish up the front suspension, but I'm having a problem with fitting the calipers.  The problem is on both sides.   Is there a way to center them?    They need to move toward the outside.  If I needed to move them toward the chassis I could fit shims.  But to move them the other direction I can't figure out what needs to be done short of grinding some off the caliper mount (which I don't think is correct, unless someone tells me otherwise).  I have checked everything I can think of:  the hub seems correct on the stub axle (stub axle was not removed),
hub felt seal is the right size, no burs or obstruction pushing the hub out.  I've taken everything apart so many times I can do it with my eyes closed.  I can spin the rotor without the pads and it is not touching the caliper, but it is really close on the outside on both sides.  When I put the pads in they are both very tight on the left side caliper.   On the right side the pad on the inside is loose, but the pad on the outside is tight. When I spin the rotors with the pads I think there is too much drag.     I have new TRW pads and I took off the TRW anti squeal strip to get them to fit with the original aluminum anti squeal strip, but everything is just a bit too tight.  I have new EBC rotors.   From my research it looks like the original spitfire rotors are/were 9.5 mm.  The EBC rotors are about 10 mm.   I know .5 mm is not much, but if I could center the caliper and if I had that extra .5 mm I think everything would be working correctly.   I've spent a day and half working on this 

All help/comments greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Sherman

[Pfreen]

Did you remove the caliper mount from the vertical link?  It is the only thing that locates the caliper.
Are you sure the hub bearings are all the home and that the felt is crushed.  Every time I have changed the felt, it was very tight and took a while to wear in.  Perhaps it is holding the hub out and the inner bearing is not being loaded.

[Sherman Kaplan]

I did remove the caliper mount (several times). I've tried to make sure that it is on correctly.  The felt is new, but I compared it to the old felt and it is the same size. I even tried mounting everything without the felt and without the metal piece that holds the felt.  I double checked the bearings and they looked seated correctly.  From everything I can see the hub is as far back on the spindle as it can go.

Sherman

[dakazman]

Did you check the race seat inside the hub?
 
  Do not grind!
Dakazman