Restoration of 460489

[Hachille]

My cylinder head is a real 807-20. I measured before 43.5 ml. I cut to have 48ml. My volumetric ratio is 11.66.
I may have cut more. Because I have a compression pressure of 15 to 16 bar. That's a lot, but the engine works very well. here there are photos of the work:
https://forum-auto.caradisiac.com/topic/374864-lotus-europe-%C3%A0-moteur-renault-et-sa-petite-soeur-%C3%A0-moteur-fordlotus/?do=findComment&comment=44623355

[tmschulte11]

Thank you for uploading the dies!

I would like to suggest:  Make more work for you; )  It would greatly help and make the dies sooooo much more usable for all if you could modify them slightly.  Pls see my sketch.  I would like the die to have a cutting angle on each side for use on the top RH and top LH seal.  If you could also incorporate the compound angle of ?  I don't know; say 10 degrees, that would be just fricken AUSOME!

The same for the bottom; cutting angle on each side for use on the BOTTOM RH and BOTTOM LH seal.  Also the compound angle of again guess of 10 degrees.

Thank you very much.

[Rainer]

Sorry for replying this late, but i am pretty busy within the week.

Creating a die with cutting surfaces on both sides, would lead to problems.
First the dies need to be printed standing, this gives the best accuracy and you need a good contact surface to the buildplate of the printer.
Second you need two dies anyway, as these can be used as guide when you glue the corners together.

I print two dies this moment and if nothing goes wrong theses should be finished this evening.
I will do a small tutorial with pictures how to use them this weekend.

I am not sure what you mean by compound angle, Google translate does not help me either.
Or sou you mean the outside of the rubber should be longer than the inside?

[tmschulte11]

Hello.

There are actually 8 cuts needed for the rubber windshield seal.  Two cuts per corner.

Currently if I understand this correctly, 4 cutting dies will be needed. 

I think we can reduce this to two cutting dies; the top rubber seal die would have the correct cutting angle on the RH and LH side of the die  for the top RH and top LH cuts.
The Bottom rubber seal die would have the correct cutting angle on the RH and LH side of the die for the Bottom RH and Bottom LH cuts.

I tried to show this in my hand sketch.  Apparently not too clear.

[Rainer]

Some picture of the dies.

These need to be printed in this orientation and this is one reason i can not combine two in one.
In the last picture you see the advantage of having two dies for one corner. You can also use them as guide tool when gluing corners together.
Of course you need to destroy them after gluing the second corner, but they print pretty fast and cheap.

Hachille

That's a very nice tool you build. Your pictures are a big help.
My head i an 843 and completely flat in the squish area.

I discovered a damaged valve seat and a damaged valve guide, so i had them redone last week.
I decided to buy new valves from mecaparts which are lighter than stock parts, but will increase chamber volume a bit.

So far i measured
1cc valve cutouts
dome volume 12.4cc
dome height 8.65mm over deck
I still need to recheck the chamber volume, lapped the valves today but had no time left.

Started a quick mock up on the exhaust header this week.
Version 1-3 in the pictures

[Rainer]

Small update,

Soda blasted the steering wheel, the spokes look like new now.
Had a bit professional help with the leather, wetting the leather and getting a tight fit on the wheel was a trick i had not known.
When the leather has dried after two days it wrapped around the wheel by itself.
Did the stitching myself which was time consuming but easy.

[TurboFource]

Nice job!

[jbcollier]

Does wetting the leather shrink it?  Or?

[BDA]

Well done! 

[TurboFource]

I think it does JB

[Rainer]

Wetting the leather expands it, but when it dries it shrinks again where possible.
It has to be a tight fit when wet, when it dries on the wheel, the leather can't shrink on the outside diameter but contract on the sides. It really wraps around the wheel by itself.

The exhaust Manifold is done.
I 3D printed the Flange and added adapters to it, these fit on tubing and these green water tubes. I also added adapters to fit straight and bend parts together.
I started with a complete mock up of water pipes. Then exchanged the first runner for stainless tubing only one part after another, and tackwelded these together.

After completing all four runners i welded them completely and backpurged with a second argon bottle.

Final step was welding collector and flange to the runners.

[BDA]

Nice! 

[TurboFource]

Nice fab work!

[dakazman]

  Very nice layout and fabrication. 
Dakazman

[Rainer]

Small update on the heads, they have been modified to accept the domed pistons.
The tool looks a bit crude but did the job surprisingly well.
The tool rotates around an old timing belt idler.
The cutter is fixed in the block with two roller bearings and has no play, the air tool acts just as a drive.
i made various blocks of different degrees cutting angle, to adjust the compression ratio.
After each cut i had to measure again, and testfit the clearance to the head with clay.