Successful Replacement of Window Motors

[Stuleslie]

I don't know where I found reference to this motor VDO WL42018 as a replacement for the old righthand motor. It may have been on this forum but to my shame and gratitude I cannot remember who posted the info but thanks for sharing. I ordered the motor through Rockauto.com and was received about a week later at a very reasonable shipping charge to the UK.
On first inspection of the motor, the gear pitch and the spigot on the end of the gear shaft mated well with the original frame of the winding mechanism. Pic 1. Unfortunately, the mounting holes alignment were a way off with a 10mm gap between motor and baseplate. Pic 2.
I noticed that if I turned the motor about 45 degrees the lower mounting point aligned with the baseplate. Pic 3. I then made a lash-up fitting and packed the 10mm space with washers so that I could test the strength of the motor in the door. Once in the door the window moved smoothly and quickly up and down, success!
The top left mounting could not be used as it interfered with the gear arm. The right mounting, however, could be attached to a 10mm spacing plate attached to the baseplate by the original two mounting holes. Pic 4. Once the plate was made and narrower washers placed under the lower mounting point the unit was ready to be re-installed. Pic 5. One small glitch is that the motor runs forward and backwards by reverse polarity and not with an earth and two +ve windings as per the original motors. A new switch was purchased from Carbuildersolutions.com to switch the polarity and all was well. Once installed the motor works really well with the added bonus of only pulling about 3 amps whereas the old motor struggled at more than 10 amps.
I ordered the left-hand motor VDO WL42017 from Rockauto.com and adapted the left side with equal success. This motor pair (WL42017/018) seem to be in short supply but I was looking at Rockauto’s parts list and from what I can tell, pairs WL42002/03 and Wl42004/05 look similar with 12 tooth gearwheel with only the wiring plug in a different configuration. So hopefully they will do the job.
Stuart

[Fotog]

Nice write-up!  That looks like good information.  I hope I don't need it!  My windows work, but  the motors seem to be straining.  Hopefully with some lubrication; maybe some replacement of something in the window track, they will work better.

Can you describe what is the 'spigot' in English mechanics?  I didn't get any good answers with a bit of googling.  Some output shaft, bushing, or coupling, I imagine.  Here in the USA, it's only the thing we connect our hosepipe to for the garden!

Thx!.... Vince

[Stuleslie]

Hi Vince, a spigot is the end of a shaft the goes into a hole or bearing. The tip of the input shaft of a gearbox is the spigot that goes into a needle roller bearing in the end of the crankshaft.

Try and measure the current draw of your window motors they could be pulling over 10 amps which puts a strain on the switch and wiring.

Cheers
Stuart

[BDA]

That was indeed a nice write up, Stuleslie! Do you know what car those motors were originally intended for?

Many years ago I read that the window motors came from a '60s or '70s Buick or Oldsmobile and that they are available at NAPA here in the states (and Canada?). I would imagine they also ship across the pond. I found this information (http://lotus-europa.com/data/xr1/r40.html) on Lotus Europa Central. It is undoubtedly old. Unfortunately it doesn't list any makes or models but a call to NAPA might provide that info. It might be that they are a direct, or more direct, replacement.

I suspect your motors were for a much more modern car and so were not a direct replacement. If so, that might have also worked in your favor and your motors could be more powerful.

[Stuleslie]

Sorry BDA, the Rockauto.com site does not state any car model although there are some cross- reference part numbers that might mean something to someone. Strangely, they state that WL42018 is for the left side but it fits the Europa’s right, but that can just be Lotus at its best fitting things back-to-front

The motor is much smaller than the original and I was not going to use it if it did not make much difference in pushing the window up - bit it did, it flew up! And with much less current draw.

[BDA]

That's an improvement that could be worth the trouble! Good job!

[SwiftDB4]

These should be direct replacements, but only on remanufactured basis:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1970,corvette,5.7l+350cid+v8,1040915,interior,window+motor,1516

These are for a 1970 Corvette, but other GM cars of the same era might fit.

[BDA]

I wonder if they have the advantages of lower current draw and increased power compared to the stock units.

[Fotog]

a spigot is the end of a shaft the goes into a hole or bearing.

Thanks  Stuart.  I think I understand that it's not a specific mechanical part, but denotes generally the end of some sort of shaft or the like that mates up with (as you say) a hole or bearing.

I'll take your advice and check out my motors.

Vince

[4129R]

For future reference it seems these are the AC Delco part numbers for the original motors, and they were fitted to US cars in the 60s and 70s:-

Left door   5045586

Right door 5045588

[4129R]

Major success. I managed to dismantle, clean, de-rust, and re-assemble a door motor and now it works perfectly.

Beware when taking the motor off the arm assembly, as the lever is spring loaded and does a very good job of slicing your thumb when it springs apart.

My advice, put the arm in a bench vice when undoing the  x 7/16" headed bolts.

To dismantle the motor, undo 3 x 1/4" head long bolts, and tap the top off with a chisel and hammer.

To get the brush plate off the commutator, there are two spring clips into the body which need to be released. Once those are released, you can carefully remove the Formica plate holding the two brushes, and just ease the plate over the rotor end, and then the rotor/commutator comes out easily.

I soaked the rusty casing overnight in vinegar, washed in water and dried with compressed air, then carefully cleaned everything, re-assembled the motor, put the arm in the vice, attached the  bolts and put the whole assembly back in the door and bingo, it goes up and down quite well.

Now on to the other door ......