Author Topic: Reassembling my crossflow  (Read 7857 times)

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Offline califkid_66

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #90 on: Sunday,August 04, 2019, 05:57:09 PM »
Yes the sprocket and chain and tensioner are all new and i did read that if you remove it you have to replace with a new one but like JB said maybe it was not pressed in enough and looking at the camshaft sprocket i can see it is not pushed in enough now i would have to remove the cam and put it on a press to push it in a bit more to remove the slack

Offline califkid_66

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #91 on: Tuesday,September 03, 2019, 10:41:03 AM »
What’s this hole for !!
The one between the alternator bracket
Water temp maybe

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #92 on: Tuesday,September 03, 2019, 10:45:04 AM »
Yup

Offline califkid_66

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #93 on: Tuesday,September 03, 2019, 10:47:33 AM »
Ok thanks

Offline califkid_66

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #94 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 09:12:52 AM »
Well i was taking a break from wiring and i noticed this
Is that going to cause a problem for head alignment one is my wedge the one missing the alignment hole is the crossflow

Offline dakazman

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #95 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 12:25:59 PM »
   Calikid, rest easy. The wedge uses that hole with the t bracket. We don’t use that for the crossflow.
 
   Look on page 29 of the manual R17 shown below . The hole on the crossflow is on the block for that location. See pg 30 below for the correct tool installed from the bottom up. My crossflow pic is also the same as yours. Unmilled.

Offline califkid_66

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #96 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 12:43:43 PM »
I don’t get it what i got from reading the head installation is the two studs were for locating the gasket
and once your gasket is in place you put tool number 1 and the dowel to locate the head once it is in place you remove the two studs and the head will stay in place and not move held in place by dowel and locating tool number 1  so you can put the head bolts and rocker assembly without anything moving
Now if i use the studs to place my gasket lower my head on it i will have to remove the studs to bolt the head and rocker assembly witch means the head will only have one locating dowel and nothing to prevent it from moving out of alignment
What am i missing i don’t get it

Offline dakazman

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #97 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 01:39:31 PM »
  Califkid, I truly cannot answer your question.  I would do a dry run without the gaskets.
 
  How I understand it is you put the location studs in place and attach the rear pin in also. Tappets in and the dissy aligned,  place head on gently. Put the head bolts in the holes with out the studs and slightly tighten. Remove the studs and alignment pin . Then add the two bolts where the studs were.
Then torque head down in sequence.
  I haven’t played around with the aft locator yet for that motor.
I have everything packed into my garage from the hurricane and cannot get to it easily.
Dakazman

Offline dakazman

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #98 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 05:02:50 PM »
  Looked at the pictures again. You took a picture of the head timing chain side. That is the front of engine where the studs go.  Alignment pin 1 goes in the aft side by starter.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #99 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 05:19:55 PM »
The "alignment" studs allow you to drop the head on very close to where it is supposed to be.  This prevents large sideways movements of the head which would possibly move the two-piece head gaskets out of position.   The head is precisely aligned using the one dowel and the alignment tool.  This is extremely important!  The head has to be precisely placed so the distributor drive gears mesh properly.  You CANNOT align the head properly using studs alone.

Offline califkid_66

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #100 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 06:20:21 PM »
Thanks Dakazman i just went to check my motor and i see what you mean there is another hole near the starter and i just rechecked your picture and noticed that on the crossflow the alignment tool fits exactly where you mentioned thanks again

« Last Edit: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 07:04:47 PM by califkid_66 »

Offline dakazman

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #101 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 07:31:40 PM »
That’s were it goes !
Dakazman

Offline califkid_66

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #102 on: Thursday,September 05, 2019, 08:06:25 PM »
Thanks !  One less thing to worry about !!

Offline GavinT

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #103 on: Friday,September 06, 2019, 12:04:47 AM »
I don’t get it what i got from reading the head installation is the two studs were for locating the gasket
and once your gasket is in place you put tool number 1 and the dowel to locate the head once it is in place you remove the two studs and the head will stay in place and not move held in place by dowel and locating tool number 1  so you can put the head bolts and rocker assembly without anything moving
Now if i use the studs to place my gasket lower my head on it i will have to remove the studs to bolt the head and rocker assembly witch means the head will only have one locating dowel and nothing to prevent it from moving out of alignment
What am i missing i don’t get it

Yep, it can be confusing at first, but you missed a step - install the hollow dowel in place before you fit the gasket.

Consider this:
With a head installation, we are actually aligning three things - block, gasket and head.

Think of the installation as a two step process.
In the first step, we align the gasket with the block utilising the hollow dowel and the studs to determine correct location.

In the second step, the studs merely guide the head down to locate onto the hollow dowel and the alignment tool.
Without the studs in place, it'd be very easy for the head to accidentally nudge the rubber seal out of position, so do this part slowly & carefully.

It should be reasonably foolproof.
As JB says, it's important that the dizzy drive and the dizzy itself are properly aligned.
What's often not mentioned is that the alignment procedure also ensures the tappets are correctly orientated with respect to their cam lobes.
« Last Edit: Friday,September 06, 2019, 12:08:18 AM by GavinT »

Offline dakazman

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Re: Reassembling my crossflow
« Reply #104 on: Friday,September 06, 2019, 10:29:58 AM »
  Thanks JB and Gavin,
Both of you cautioned the tappets, condition and orientation. With that said,  I started reading and watching videos on tappet reconditioning. Breaking in a cam, removing the center valve springs in a double coil and replacing after running for a half hour at 2000-2500 RMP. Now I know why I normally have the machinist build it.
  Is there some documentation about the cut on the tappets? Or is it just 1-3 degree convex regrind?

Dakazman