Reassembling my crossflow

[califkid_66]

Slowly taking things apart and cleaning the po seems to have modified the oil pan and the bad news is there is glitter in the pan so i took pictures noted on paper and will continue to dismantle
and being that it’s going to be completely apart i might as well change all the bearings the seals and gasket  i would like to keep same rods and pistons and liners will ask if i need to hones the liners and change rings
There is a steam part cleaning machine where i work im gonna put the block and head in there

[jbcollier]

Some "glitter" in the pan after an overhaul is normal.  Most comes from the rings and cylinders as the rings seat into the bores.

[califkid_66]

Ok so that’s normal there was only glitter no chips
Now should i keep the same rings and put them back the same way or should i change the rings and if i do do i have to hone the liners
I know im not there yet but im starting a list of parts to order
Thanks

[jbcollier]

Keep the rings organized as to piston ring location, piston and liner.  Check the rings against the specs in the manual.  Ring end gap and clearance in the ring land is critical.  Worn lands can be repaired by any good machine shop.

[califkid_66]

Ok first what’s lands ? would that be the groove on the piston
so what you’re saying is if the liners are in good condition and ring gap is ok i can put them back in won’t need to change them
One more thing my connecting rod are bolted no nuts on top so i am pretty happy about that

[jbcollier]

The ring lands are the "walls" of the ring groove in the piston.

Yup, if the rings are within spec, they're fine.

[dakazman]

 When you get the pistons out , you may also want to check the rings are not locked into the grooves.
The lower oil seal is a 3 piece ring so pay attention where they splits.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

It's best to use a piston ring expanding tool to remove and replace rings.  They can be made of cast iron and will easily break if handled roughly.

[califkid_66]

ok thanks for all the help  im gonna go play in the garage i got enough info to keep me busy for a while!!

[GavinT]

One more thing my connecting rod are bolted no nuts on top so i am pretty happy about that

The rods appear to be those used in the R17TS or R12G etc. with 21mm fully floating gudgeon pins.

That's good but as far as I know, the 843 engines all used 21mm press fit gudgeon pins.
I'm not 100% on that and there may have been variations, but given your mix of internals it’s worthwhile checking.

[GavinT]

Califkid,
 I have reread your entire thread again.  PLEASE, for your own good listen to GalvinT and JB, and the future voices in your head and...

Missed this one.
Thanks for the kind words, D’man but just to be clear for the casual reader, I expect JB has built more engines than I’ve had hot dinners . . as they say. 

[califkid_66]

Well first i appreciate all imput from everyone!! every information helps
I measured my camshaft end float acording to the manuel it should be between 0.002 and 0.0045 now i have measured with a dial gage and im at 0.021 way to much movement
Seems it was more slapped together than rebuilt im not to sure as how to adjust this im still waiting on some books

[jbcollier]

Someone else's rebuild is just a pile of parts stored together for convinience.  Not easy to get excessive camshaft endplay, especially that excessive.  Gear not pressed on all the way?

[califkid_66]

Probably or just lack of experience I’ll never know im just happy i took it apart and didn’t try to start it as is then it would  have turned into a boat anchor

[GavinT]

Are the chain, sprockets & tensioner new, D’man?

The manual states that a new sprocket should be installed when an old one is removed.