Reassembling my crossflow

[dakazman]

If you contact Steve he will guide you to the correct items you need . He set me up awhile back. He is very knowledgeable.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

What is you engine type number?  It should be on an alloy plate on the starter side of the block near the flywheel.  For example, mine is an 807-13.

[califkid_66]

I cannot really use the identification plate but according to my research
The block witch is alu cleon is a aluminum block tha came from a Renault Fuego the plate on the block as  A7L written on it
And the internal crank rod pistons all came from a r17 the bore is 79mm
and the head is from a crossflow Renault gordini it is ported and polished
 It looks like it was freshly rebuilt i have twin Dellortos and they never had fuel in them
 I removed the head to see what i had

[jbcollier]

That engine should have o-ringed liners which do not require shimming to set the sleeve height.  Look for a manual for a Renault Fuego Turbo rather the early R17 one you pictured earlier.

[califkid_66]

Ok i will ,and you are right its not the paper shims its rubber seals
But like i said the only part of the fuego that was used was the block
I already ordered the books but i figure the more books the better
and since all the parts came off a r17 there might be good information in them
The book for r16 is gonna be useful for my 821  and for my 336 tranny

[GavinT]

G’day califkid,

If the block is an A7L and came from a Fuego in NA, that likely means it’s essentially an 843 block.
The 843 numbering kinda morphed into the later nomenclature to become the A7L.

Got a pic with a side view of the block?


It might also be worth casting an eye over this thread to help ID some block differences.

http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1748.0

[califkid_66]

I have these two pictures i can get better ones  that’s the  A7L block

[califkid_66]

Front and back i can get better pictures when I go in the garage

[GavinT]

Thanks for the pics.
You may notice one of subtle difference between the older 807 & your 843/AL7 block is the inclusion of additional mounting bosses (red ellipse). These bosses also appear on the 841 (wedge head) block.

Have you figured out how you’re going to drive the water pump and alternator yet?
If I recall, you have part of a hall effect timing arrangement in that alloy pulley on the cam.

[califkid_66]

Like i said all the parts came of the r17 its only the block and maybe the liners cause they are the ones with rubber seals 79mm
The cam came from the r17 so it long and drives all the pulleys  on the fuego there was a crank sensor for ignition signal the po fabricated the aluminium pulley with four earth magnet to make the signal from the cam to the original distributor but i don’t have the rest of the system
the head i have no idea but i showed it to someone who told me it was a Renault  gordini head i think the valves are bigger i will measure them cause the head is off
In the previous pictures the pulley was not installed
I will not use the aluminium pulley as a signal i want to get a programable distributor  like JB but for now i have a friend that got me a r17 distributor just to get me started if all goes well i will order the programable one

[dakazman]

Thanks califkid and Galvin,
  You both supplied a good deal of information. Califkid, your engine is amazing. I’ll be reading about your progress.
Dakazman

[GavinT]

Ahhh . . thanks for that close up of the pulley. I didn’t notice it could accommodate a V-belt in the previous pic.
It looks to be smaller than the stock pulley.

While you’re measuring the valves, it’s probably a good idea to measure the cc’s of the combustion chambers. That would allow you to calculate compression ratio.

Actually, yours is a good example of the mix ’n’ match capability with these engines.
I expect it’ll perform really well.

[califkid_66]

Ok now that you started on the subject you know now you have to tell me how to measure the compression ratio cause this is another subject i want to learn about !!

For the size of the pulleys i didn’t mesure but i was thinking of borrowing the ones from my 821
The one on the cam for two reasons one it looks like a bigger diameter wich means it will turn the water pump faster and you can adjust the tension on it

[GavinT]

Here’s how I do it for the head.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqAr4DUqEt4

Given the pistons are irregular in shape and likely protrude above the liner at TDC, you’ll need to do a similar procedure to find the volume of that piston projection at TDC.
i.e. lower a piston in the bore a measured distance and use the plexiglass plate over the liner to discover the volume.
(Be sure to install some liner retainers before moving the crank with the head removed.)

Apply the math based on the engine stroke and the distance you lowered the piston into the bore to come up with the volume of piston that projects into (and subtracts from) the combustion chamber volume.
For example, you might measure the combustion chamber to be 34cc’s and find that the piston projects into the combustion chamber by by 3cc’s.

From there, you can figure out the compression ratio or just use one of the many on-line calculators.
These calculators typically also do the fiddly bits like the head gasket volume and the Summit Racing one also does the piston "dome".

Here’s the Summit Racing one:
https://www.summitracing.com/newsandevents/calcsandtools/compression-calculator


Make Archimedes proud. 

[jbcollier]

Usually I check carefully the clearances of the valves, piston and head from each other with clay and not bother trying to figure out the exact combustion chamber volume.  If I need know, then I carefully place the piston on TDC.  Smear vasoline around the edge of the piston to seal it, torque the head in place and use a burette with light oil through the spark plug hole.