70 S2 0044Q

[Sandyman]

Thanks John, I need to keep it in place so the studs don't hit the bottom of the carb. I will machine the centre out and enlarge the bore for the secondary. does it matter whether the primary is near the block or away? It is away from the block on the old Weber I am replacing. If I keep the linkages on the rear side of the new carb. the primary is near the block.
Sandy

[jbcollier]

You can just shorten the studs or fit shorter ones.  That said, the spacer provides some nice height before the mix has to change direction so it's a good idea to keep it.  Rather than hogging out and repairing it though, it might be easier/faster just make one up out of aluminium plate.

I don't have a manifold to hand.  If the manifold floor is restrictively high away from the block, it might be better to have the carb oriented with the primary away from the block.

[Sandyman]

Thanks for the reply. I will look for a aluminum plate.  If I can't find one I will modify the existing one. Heading over to my welder friend to make linkage work.

[Sandyman]

New linkage setup done, ready for paint and install.

[Sandyman]

I found this coolant overflow bottle online. The cap seals the bottle. Am I right in thinking that the bottle should vent to atmosphere? If so I can drill a vent hole in the cap.

[BDA]

There is no vent in the bottle at all? There's only a hose connection at the bottom and a lid that seals? How is the coolant supposed to get in? At some point, there would be too much air pressure to allow the coolant to come in.

Unless I'm missing something, there has to be some sort of vent so the coolant can get in and then back out.

Since this didn't make sense to me, I looked up coolant recovery systems on Amazon to hopefully get some information on how it is supposed to work. I found one exactly like yours and the reviews that were there were all positive. Hmmm.... I remember that Carroll Smith (famed race car preparation export and author of well respected books on the subject (Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, Engineer to Win, etc.) suggested using a commercial coolant recovery system so I went to see what he said about it. It turns out that he didn't say anything other than to use a commercial coolant system but he did provide some schematics of coolant systems. I've attached a scan of part of one of those schematics. You can clearly see that the catch tank is open to the atmosphere. I would also note that other coolant recovery tanks sold by Amazon seem to show vents.

I think I would drill a hole that could accept a hose adapter that you could use for a vent. If the vent is not required () you could get a plug and seal it back up. On your could reverse this and decide if it actually needs a vent and if it does, then add one.

edit: added a little to make it read better. My mind and fingers were not in synch!

[Sandyman]

Thank you for the eloquent answer. I will add a vent. The bottle looks good and blends in with the aluminum swirl pot. I was not expecting perfection for $30 Canadian pesos. Chinesium engineering at its best .

[Sandyman]

I am prepping to install the new fuel tank when it arrives. Can anyone confirm that the fuel feed to the carb comes out of the middle of the tank and the return line goes into the fitting at the level sender? (The manual seems to show this.) The new carb does not have a electric fuel shutoff, do I need to find and install one?
Sandyman

[jbcollier]

On the overflow container:

You are still using the stock swirl tank, right?  I hope so as it is an important part of the cooling system.  If you are just adding an overflow tank to the vent from the swirl tank then that's fine.  It will catch anything the swirl tank pushes out.  However, it won't suck it back in when the engine cools unless you change the rad cap on the swirl tank to a sealed type.

If it is a stock tank, then you are correct.  If it is an aftermarket tank then you will have to confirm.

Stock fuel pump?  Or, electric?

[Sandyman]

Thanks John, yes the stock swirl pot is in its right place. Just want any overflow to not get into the environment.

[Sandyman]

stock fuel pump

[jbcollier]

Make sure you still plumb in the metered return line -- which I believe is off the pump.  It helps prevent vapour locking.

The electric shut-off solenoid on the old carb was for emissions.  The mix was set lean so the engine had a tendency to run on which the solenoid prevented.  Be glad to be rid of it.  They had an issue with loosening due to vibration.  If left loose they could vibrate enough to wear out the carb!

[Sandyman]

Thanks, I will do. Frustration continues with the electrical system. Power always seems to be on. Engine does not shut off with key. Need to look at power feed from starter. Also I can't get the screws loose for the voltage stabilizer to replace it.

[jbcollier]

Is the stuck screw a Philips type head?  You can get anti-cam-out drivers that have "cleats" that grip very well.  Also remember that English cars use "posi-drive" screws.  They are not the same as Philips, Reed and Prince, etc.  If you use a Philips bit in a positive-drive screw, it will slip and damage the screw.

[jbcollier]

There's no need for a feed from the starter to the coil unless you are using a ballast resistor.  Also, only some starters have the special "12v start" connection.