70 S2 0044Q

[Bodzer]

Well done Sandy! Great job.  I’m in the process of tidying up the wiring on mine. Lockdown has some benefits!

[jbcollier]

Gauges:
- turn on ignition
- remove wire from sender = gauge needle at zero
- touch sender wire to ground = gauge needle swings all the way

Turn signal flasher is often load dependant.  Both lights need to be hooked up for them to work.

Is this a federal car with combined turn/brake bulbs?

[Sandyman]

John, thanks for the input. I will try this afternoon. If I understand what you are saying, the resistance in the senders drops as the coolant temp/ oil pressure increases. The Europa I have is a non federal export. The turn signals are separate front and back. I have yet to receive the promised correct front wiring from Autosparks so I will try to cobble something together to hook up the front turn indicators.
Sandy 

[jbcollier]

The right brake light (and all the RH rear lights and the license plate light, markers too if you have them) is powered from the connections at the left brake light.  The green and purple wire from the harness comes out at the LH light unit and uses a 4-way connector to join three wires: GP from switch,  LH light unit harness, and GP to RH light unit (and its harness).  The signal light units often do not use a GP wire for the brake lights.  You have to figure out which is the feed to the brake light bulb.

[Sandyman]

I have managed to get all the rear lights working. Head scratching and propane language included . Could not wait , dropped the car and drove it around the block. All the gears work but finding them will take some learning. Cant believe how quick she feels. Discovered that the carb. is leaking (not good having fuel dripping onto the hot exhaust manifold!). Need to source a rebuild kit for a 32DIR37. No luck so far. Now to tackle the front lights (extra wire and fittings finally arrived via carrier pigeon from Autosparks). The adventure continues.
Sandy

[Chuck Nukem]

Congratulations Sandy!!!! Frustration begets satisfaction!!

[BDA]

Congratulations, Sandy!!! That has to feel good! 
Now all you need to do is remember where your gears are!

[Sandyman]

Thanks Chuck! I am in awe of the body work you are doing. How long untill you start final paint?
Stay safe.
Sandy

[Chuck Nukem]

Thanks Chuck! I am in awe of the body work you are doing. How long untill you start final paint?
Stay safe.
Sandy

Thank you! It is coming out much sharper this time around. I think this was the last full hi build coat. I have a few little spots to touch up before sealing. My epoxy sealer is black so it will be a good day when I see the car in the near final color!

I am going to switch gears after I finish sanding the hi build and prep my last remaining bed panels on my 66 chevy pick up (most are already in sealer so it shouldn't take too long). This way I can paint everything in one go. That said I have decided to postpone painting my S1A until after the TCS is finished. This way I can get an idea if I want to go do a 47 style rear suspension in it before I commit to sealing the frame inside the body.

[Sandyman]

If the Weber 32DIR37 carb. I have is unfixable what other options are out there for the 697-04 Renault engine?

[jbcollier]

A DGV with a manual choke works very well.  Much better than stock.

[Sandyman]

Thank you John, would I be looking for a 32/36 DGV?

[jbcollier]

You used to be able to get a 28/36 but I think only the 32/36 is available now.  The 28/36 would offer a bit more part throttle economy and low end tractability along with some loss on the top end compared to a 32/36.  Make sure you get the thick insulating gasket/spacer that goes between the carb and manifold.  Myself, I would also make up a heat shield to protect the carb from exhaust manifold heat.

[Sandyman]

BDA, thanks for the web sites for carb. suppliers. New carb, air filter and base gasket on order. John you mentioned installing a heat shield for the carb. Any thoughts/ideas on design and mounting? Happy Canada Day! (yesterday) Happy 4th. to all my US friends! Stay safe, be kind.
Sandy

[jbcollier]

Curtesy of Tim Engel, here are some DGV base jettings that will get you in the ball park:

Europa-Renault ...... 1470cc ..... 1470cc
Carb Model .......... DGV ......... DGV
...................... Pri / Sec ... Pri / Sec
Throttle Bore ........ 32 / 36 ..... 32 / 36
Venturi (choke) ...... 26 / 27 ..... 26 / 27
Main Jet ............ 150 / 145 ... 145 / 135
Main Air Corrector... 175 / 170 ... 165 / 160
Emulsion Tube ..................... F50 / F6
Idle Jet ............. 55 / 50 ..... 55 / 50
Pump Jet ............................. 55
Pump Exhaust Jet ..................... 50
Float Level (mm) ....... 35 .......... 35
..................... Lean miss .... Maybe one ...
..................... @ 2000 ....... step richer
.................................... on primary

*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

Europa-Renault ...... 1565cc ....... 1565cc
Carb Model .......... DGAV ......... DGAV
...................... Pri / Sec .... Pri / Sec
Throttle Bore ........ 32 / 36 ...... 32 / 36
Venturi (choke) ...... 26 / 27 ...... 26 / 27
Auxiliary Venturi .. 3.50 / 3.50... 3.50 / 3.50
Main Jet ............ 140 / 140 .... 155 / 155
Main Air Corrector... 170 / 180 .... 165 / 155
Emulsion Tube ......... F50 / F50... F50 / F6
Idle Jet ............... 60 / 50 .... 55 / 50
Pump Exhaust Jet ...................... 50
Float Level (mm) ...................... 35

*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*

I built a composite Holley-Weber '52xx' carb for Fed Europa S2 1280R, using a carb body from a '73 Pinto Holley-Weber 5200 and a top cover/ air horn ass'y from a '74 Vega Holley-Weber 5210C.    Jetting was pretty much stock Pinto 2000.   It started easily with the hot-water automatic choke (ex-wife request),  the engine was more urgent if not more powerful (ie, ran better than the emissions Solex), and fuel economy was in the mid-high 30's at steady cruise on the highway (went to pot when you put your foot in it).

Europa-Renault ...... 1565cc, 821-30, mostly stock.
Carb Model .......... Holley-Weber 5200/ 5210C composite
Jetting is mostly ... 1973 Pinto 2000cc SOHC L4
...................... Pri / Sec
Throttle Bore ........ 32 / 36
Venturi (choke) ...... 26 / 27
Auxiliary Venturi .. 3.50 / 3.50
Main Jet ............ 132 / 135,  Lean main jet,  try (145) / (150)
Main Air Corrector... 180 / 195
Idle Jet ............. 55 / 50
Float Level (mm) ....... 35
Inlet Needle Valve .... 2.00
% Reduction ........ 81.3 / 75.0 (throat to choke)
Altitude above Sea Level, 980'

The 5200's body was an easy linkage hook-up, but the plumbing was ackward.
The 5210C's plumbing was a natural fit, but the linkage was a nightmare.
So I used the 5200 body with the 5210C top cover/ air horn assembly.
Two junk yard carbs plus one rebuild kit.

Also Required:
1)  A custom machined, 1" thick adapter plate, plus ~1/4" gasket (stock Ford gaskets, one above & below the plate).

2)  Some custom plumbing for the hot water automatic choke.

3)  Flipping the throttle linkage belcrank over (on top of the valve cover) in order to put the ball stud on the bottom side.   This lowered the inboard end of the pushrod, and along with raising the carb with the adapter plate, gave better, more progressive linkage geometry... no noticeable "going over-center" feel.

The Solex had a water-heated spacer plate that I didn't use.   So my adapter plate plus the two thick Ford gaskets put the carb 'back' up at a level (+/-) where the throttle linkage worked better.   No custom linkage required... all stock Renault linkage and stock H-W carb belcranks.   Flipping the linkage's intermedicate belcrank was the only mod, and that only required seconds (remove E-clip, flip, oil, replace E-clip).

Back in the day, junkyard Pinto & Vega parts were cheap & plentiful.   Now this may not be such an economical option.