Glass help.

[BDA]

If the motor isn't good, I wouldn't sweat it. I believe motors are readily available.

[Sandyman]

Thanks for all the help. I took the passenger window motor out and applied a shock to it. (hammer and current) It seems to be working fine outside the door. I will grease her and put her back tomorrow after work.

[Pfreen]

The window motors are powerful but the wiring and switches limit the current, thus the motor torque.  I installed relays to supply higher current and save the switches from burning out due to the high current.  Also, silicone spray in the channel helps.  One other thing to check is that the window channel felt is fully “home” in the aluminum channel.

I've heard of people using relays for all their switched circuits. I think it's a great idea. Can you provide a diagram for how to wire it up? I'm having a hard time getting my head around how to use them with the switches that swap polarity.

edit: also, where did you put them.

This sketch I found and it shows how to wire the relays.  I used weatherproof relays I bought through ebay. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pack-OLS-40-30-Amp-Waterproof-Relay-Switch-Harness-Set-12V-DC-5-Pin-SPDT-12/382829584205?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D82b23520dbb747dabad0982e4985b0f6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D153436244034%26itm%3D382829584205&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I mounted 2 per door, in the door close to the motor.   I also ran a 14 gage 12volt supply and 14 gage ground wire.  It works great.

[BDA]

Thanks Pfreen!

[Sandyman]

This wiring diagram is making my head hurt. Do you now have to ground/earth the window rocker switch? It looks different than the wiring diagram on the Ebay site. It shows up when you click on the picture and click over to the other pictures.

[RoddyMac]

Just quickly looking at the diagram Pfreen posted, the window switches get wired as they were from factory.  Power in (Brown wire) and power out (one for up and one for down).  The relays takes place of the motor in terms of stock wiring, power in one side and ground the other side.  The relay gets it's own power in and power out to the motor.  The motor still requires a ground to complete the circuit, you can ground the relay (switch side) to the same ground if you mount the relays in the door.

[Sandyman]

Hi Roddy, Could you compare the sketch with the wiring diagram on the Ebay add? If you click on the picture it allows you to scroll right to wiring diagrams. The sketch appears to copy the diagram for a grounded switch. 2 pictures later there is a diagram for a powered switch. What do you think? Thanks for your time.
Sandy

[RoddyMac]

Sandyman,
Attached is the relay wiring stolen from the Ebay listing.  The wire from the switch goes to terminal 86, terminal 85 goes to ground, 87 goes to the window motor using the terminal that the switch wire went to, terminal 30 gets its own power (should be fused to prevent burning cars down).  The window motor is grounded in the usual fashion but as Pfreens comment, it can use a 14 ga wire.  If you mount the relays in the door, then you can ground the relay terminal 85 with the window motor ground.  If you were to mount the relays in the car, then ground terminal 85 to somewhere that's already grounded and have the window motor ground, again, in it's usual fashion.

Rod 

[Sandyman]

So you agree with me that the sketch having the car window switch going to the other terminal won't work?

[Sandyman]

Posts 85 and 86 reversed in sketch.

[dakazman]

Thanks pfreen , roddymac, I will definitely add that in.
Dakazman

[BDA]

Posts 85 and 86 reversed in sketch.

Does it really matter? 85 & 86 is part of the energizing circuit. One side is power and the other is ground. Switching them shouldn't matter.

edit: looking at the schematic for the relay, I see an area for confusion because it calls for a hot wire to be connected to 30 which Pfreen doesn't use. I'm assuming that isn't strictly necessary (or am I just showing my ignorance?).

[Sandyman]

You'r right BDA why should we follow wiring diagrams from engineers. Its only classics we (non electrical engineers) restore. Sorry for the rant but I saw a difference and just wanted to point it out.

[Sofa King]

I’m using an after market switch kit on mine. I understand the bennifits of the relay slowing you to use a larger wire to power the motor and put less strain on the switch, but aren’t we limited by the gauge of the wires going into the motor? I am using a 12 ga ground wire, but I’m using wires of a similar gauge to the factory wires to and from the switches and to the motors.

Since I shaved my door handles, I am using door poppers instead of a mechanical linkage. I had a major problem with the puller solenoids being strong enough to work the latches. I send from 45 to 60 to 100 lb solenoids. Even the 100 pounders didn’t work until I went to 10 ha wire for power and ground! I can see the same issue happening with the window motors, but we will always have the bottleneck if the stock wires into the motors. I’m not an engineer... am I missing something?

[RoddyMac]

edit: looking at the schematic for the relay, I see an area for confusion because it calls for a hot wire to be connected to 30 which Pfreen doesn't use. I'm assuming that isn't strictly necessary (or am I just showing my ignorance?).

Jim,
Pfreen does have a hot lead to 30 it in his diagram, he's showing it coming from the fuse box.  The Ebay diagram has an extra terminal, 87A, which goes unused.

Just think of the relay as a switch controlled by a switch.  The relay can handle more power, that's all.  And I don't think reversing 85 & 86 will do any harm, as you stated they just control the "switch" part of the relay.