Glass help.

[Pfreen]

The hardest part for me was how to trim thequarter glass rubber so the miters looks good and the relief at the back at the back of bottom quarter lite seal.
Hopefully you have the old seals as a pattern.

[Sandyman]

The quarter glass was missing when I got the car. R D Enterprises came through with a good used one. I am thinking of using the frame as a template for the rubber.

[Sofa King]

I had riveted the frame to the door and then put the molding into the slot over the rivets. That might be where I’m getting my binding. Thanks for the run through!

[Sofa King]

Got my passenger glass in today! Much easier with the help of this thread! Thanks for the help guys!
I’m still concerned that the windows are too snug for the window motors to move them. I’ll keep working on getting them looser. Any wisdom to send my way?

[4129R]

The window motors are quite strong, being very low geared.

The problem is if they won't go down and the motor rips the metal channel off the bottom of the glass.

If the channels are too tight, make sure the heads of the rivets have not got bits of the rivet steel pin sticking out of the aluminium rivet. 

[Sofa King]

Good to know that the motors are strong. I was assuming that they wouldn’t be! Also good to know that the mounting channel could be a weak spot, I can move the windows using just the channels, so I might be OK.

I’ll double check the rivet heights. Thanks!

Sorry if I have hijacked this thread! Hopefully I am looking for the same answers that Sandyman needed!

[Sandyman]

You have been very helpful Sofa King. Glad you have got yours in. I am going to follow 4129Rs advice and drill out the felt window channel where the rivets go in.

[4129R]

You have been very helpful Sofa King. Glad you have got yours in. I am going to follow 4129Rs advice and drill out the felt window channel where the rivets go in.

I found it easier to put the felt in, drill the holes, put the glass in, put the frame in, then pop rivet through the holes in the felt.

Putting the felt in after the frame is riveted in place is possible, but I found it easier the other way.

Yes you may see the pop rivet holes in the felt, but who is looking? Only visible when the glass is down.

Plus the holes in the felt does not bump over the rivet.

[Sandyman]

Also did latch fibreglass repair. Waiting for frame to come back from welder.

[Pfreen]

The window motors are powerful but the wiring and switches limit the current, thus the motor torque.  I installed relays to supply higher current and save the switches from burning out due to the high current.  Also, silicone spray in the channel helps.  One other thing to check is that the window channel felt is fully “home” in the aluminum channel.

[BDA]

At least you can get something done on your car!!

[BDA]

The window motors are powerful but the wiring and switches limit the current, thus the motor torque.  I installed relays to supply higher current and save the switches from burning out due to the high current.  Also, silicone spray in the channel helps.  One other thing to check is that the window channel felt is fully “home” in the aluminum channel.

I've heard of people using relays for all their switched circuits. I think it's a great idea. Can you provide a diagram for how to wire it up? I'm having a hard time getting my head around how to use them with the switches that swap polarity.

edit: also, where did you put them?

[Sandyman]

The window on the passengers side is down 1/2 inch. I put power to the terminals, no movement or noise. Any thoughts?

[BDA]

I assume at this point, you tested the motor before installing it and greased the runner at the bottom of the window glass, and the window is not binding in the runners. If you took the mechanism apart, you may not have given enough spring tension. You should assemble it so that spring is wound to give the maximum help in lifting the window.

[Sandyman]

This side never came out. I guess it should remove it and test it.