Glass help.

[Pfreen]

Important fyi.  The window frames are hard coat anodized.  If you polish/sand through it, the color will be different because of the difference in color of the anodizing and the base aluminum.  If you need to get it anodized, it is very expensive because of stripping stripping the old anodizing, polishing thebase aluminum and then hard coat anodizing.  Unfortunately, I know this from my exprrience and it cost around $750 to get them shiny and scratch free again.

[Sandyman]

Dazaksman, love the Florida sun gleaming off that very shiny door! Pulled the felt strip at back of door. Found 2 more rivets, left my drill and bits at work. HE (double hockey sticks!). Oh well put oil pan and rocker cover on instead.

[dakazman]

 Pfreen, you are correct they are a different color until you completely remove all the anodized layers but with all the deep scratches I had no other choice except to paint . So I sanded until all the defects were removed but buffed out the same way you buff stainless, except for the rouge of course. Stainless has green rouge, aluminum red and white. It’s just another avenue the will require work down the road and softer but I like to buff.
Dakazman

[Pfreen]

I just wanted to let  people know.  Mine were in fairly good shape and I was just polishing them on a wheel.  Unfortuneately, I went too deep.
Live and learn.

[Sandyman]

Aluminum side window frame is out. Yeah. The inner sweep has become detached from the frame what is the best way to reattach?

[4129R]

What do you mean by the inner sweep?

If is is the small piece of aluminium that is pop riveted on the top flat bit of the door, they all do that and it is not an important connection for the frame.

[Sandyman]

4129R, sorry my computer is broken and I can't resize pictures. I am talking about the aluminum piece that spans the window frame and sits on the inner side of the door. The weld in one end of this piece has broken.

[SwiftDB4]

Best way to reattach is TIG welding. I tried epoxy once, but it doesn't hold up long.

[4129R]

Those tabs all break off.

I think out of the 14 doors I have stripped, only 1 had the tab still attached.

[Sandyman]

Thanks swiftdb4. Another trip to my Machinist.

[Sofa King]

I’m trying to get my windows back in right now also. What is the best sequence for butting the windows and frames back in the door? I am assuming that the main frame with the roll up window in it, goes in before the quarter glass assembly. Should I leave the main assembly loose before trying to install the quarter glass, or rivet it in place. I am having trouble getting the “H” channel molding between the back of the quarter glass and the main glass frame. What is the trick?

[4129R]

Rubber channel in frame.

Drill holes through rubber where the old pop rivet holes were.

Horizontal brush strips on to frame.

Glass in frame.

Frame in door, loose.

Triangle rubber 2 corner bits in.

Triangular glass in.

Partition vertical rubber in.

Pop rivet frame in place.

Seal frame to door with mastic. 

[Gary t]

That method seems right, but I found that I had to hold my mouth just right and choose an appropriate chant the help it go in. Oh and dish soap.

[4129R]

The hard part is getting the pop riveter to work in the window channels. I had to grind the sides off the pip riveter nozzle to get it to fit in the channel.

[dakazman]

Im right there with you but decided to install the door lock mechanisms first but forgot to order new seals for the pulls and lock assembly when i ordered the rubber guides and fuzzies. Putting on hold for now.,plenty more to do.
Dakazman