Door latch fibregalss backing

[1970EuropaGuy]

While I'm using glass I thought I would repair the door latch backing area. Does anyone have a photo of what this area should look like?

[dakazman]

I can send you a picture tomorrow but it looks like you need to tape over the entire outer section of the door then apply a few layers of mat from the inside of door. Then cut into from the outside.
Dakazman

[1970EuropaGuy]

I can send you a picture tomorrow but it looks like you need to tape over the entire outer section of the door then apply a few layers of mat from the inside of door. Then cut into from the outside.
Dakazman

A photo tomorrow would be fabulous. Yes, I'll be applying a few layers of mat on the inside. Should be a messy job!

[dakazman]

It looks like you have the door off so it should be pretty easy to repair and not to messy .
You will need aluminum tape, 7mil rubber gloves. The hard part will be to chamfer the inside of the door panel so the new matting has a good surface to adhere too. Do you has any air tools or die grinders with sanding discs?
Dakazman

[1970EuropaGuy]

Actually the door is on the car, shouldn't cause too many issues. Yeah, lots of air tools here. A bad habit!

[4129R]

Does this help?

[1970EuropaGuy]

4129R, so this is what the door is supposed to look like! Both of mine are mangled.

Thanks

[dakazman]

Mine Too. I did glass that section of the door .
I’m Glad 4129 posted the pic.
Dakazman

[1970EuropaGuy]

As thickness isn't critical here I'm going to go a little thicker than original. Do you guys have any thoughts about laminating a sheet of stainless steel between layers of glass? It certainly would be tougher to cut the required holes and slots but sure would be stronger. Might have to drink fewer beer to compensate for the additional weight however!

[rascott]

i recently made this cutout for my passenger door(mine had no holes).
i traced a pattern from another car that looked like 4129R's door, but tried to only remove enough to make the latch fit- that piece where the striker fits is inset into the door.



i slightly overcut one of the holes. don't do that..….but it works o k, and the fasteners grab enough fiberglass to be firmly mounted- i think further reinforcement is probably not needed(?)- hard to argue with, though.

[4129R]

As thickness isn't critical here I'm going to go a little thicker than original. Do you guys have any thoughts about laminating a sheet of stainless steel between layers of glass? It certainly would be tougher to cut the required holes and slots but sure would be stronger. Might have to drink fewer beer to compensate for the additional weight however!

Aluminium would be a lot easier to cut, drill and file.

[JR73]

Fibreglass is plenty strong enough providing you get it thick enough and applied correctly, if you decide to add any metal layers ensure that the surfaces are keyed up to allow a decent bond. - other options would be some marine grade plywood which would give a good bond and add strength without too much weight or a closed cell foam core would give a similar result with even less weight again.

Monolithic fibreglass would be my choice with very carefully cut holes - if you make a mistake you can always reglass and try again after all!

[dakazman]

I didn’t add any additional reinforcements to my doors and think it would be avoverkill as long as the
Striker and catch are properly aligned. E not yet
Forgive the finish of my doors I had just resprayed the car and I have not yet sanded .
Dakazman

[TCS4605R]

Attached are (2) photos - one of my right hand door without the lock set (door yet to be painted) and my left hand door (waiting to be striped, fitted and primed).  If you would like, I could make a full scale PDF of the openings in the fiberglass and send it to you.  The first photo is with this reply, the second photo is the next reply as the max. photo size can only be 1024KB.

Tom
74 TCS - 4605R

[TCS4605R]

Second photo

Tom