I'd agree with GavinT, rather than add to this thread you'll probably get more response with a dedicated topic, but in case it doesn't happen, here's my 2c worth....
Now this is going to sound very critical but honestly, it's meant in a positive way with good intentions.
If you grind out an area of cracks by chasing them individually then in my experience they will return 6 months or less after you've put the paint on. If this is your first venture into repairing crazing then it's natural to do it as you have done (I did exactly the same thing many years ago) because it feels as if you're minimising the damage/repair area.
The snag is that although it looks easier in fact it's harder. The general advice is to grind the cracks away with a "blend in" area, so for example you might grind a single crack giving 1/2" to 1" either side with a gentle bevel from the root of the crack to the surface. For an area such as you have there I would just grind the whole lot out (I use an angle grinder with sanding disc) and leave at least 1" of blending/bevel area around the edges. I'd also remove paint for another couple of inches outside of the repair area. It will look awful and you'll be thinking "what have I done ?" but that's just how it works.
I also use polyester resin. I know some folks swear by epoxy but personally I don't see the point on body panels such as this.
Glass beads will act very much like body filler in that it'll have less strength than plain resin and surface tissue (sometimes called surface veil) or glass matting. Beads and suchlike work well if you're making an internal corner radius or using it to fill very small pinholes in the final repair, but mostly I use plain resin with surface tissue. I'll use surface tissue to bring back up to 1/16" of repair, any more than that and I tend to use a light matting for the first layers.
Brian
